Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Aug 11, 2019 21:57:47 GMT
I had a Armor Class Mort backsword. They make pretty big baskets and my handle length was 7". The Mary Ross handle looks like it would be the same length. I think they use the same dimension for all their basket hilt blades.
The sword handled very well. Pretty close to the antiques that I have handled. The blade thickness starts 1/8" and is very whippy.
I could cut tatami with it but I could feel the blade struggle. You will have to have 100% edge alignment to be able to cut with the blade. If you think you have good edge alignment, this blade will let you know right away how good it is.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jul 30, 2019 2:22:15 GMT
I own the Hanwei Revolutionary War Hanger, both ZT D'Cap cutlass(Discontinued), and saber. I handled and cut with the Windlass Pirate Captain Cutlass and I have some experience with the Windlass 1860 Naval Cutlass.
I'm left handed so there are cutlass that are made for right hand only. :(
I don't know when Pgandy, got his Hanwei Hanger, but mine doesn't have a round grip. It is round by the pommel but it flatten out and is oval by the time it gets to the guard. I have no problem indexing the grip for edge alignment Or thrusting with. I am planning on doing a review on it but I have to wait until I have my surgery to fix my torn meniscus on Aug 20th. I handles alright and it handles better than the two D'Caps. It also handles better than the CS cutlass machete. The two big complaints that I have with it, is the guard is dished out and can rub on the edges of the hand(Wearing gloves helps out with that). The second one is the distal tapper or lack of one. After I finish with the review I might shave the blade down and give it a better distal tapper like I did with my CS 1796 saber.
The Windlass Pirate cutlass does have a round handle but the guard is big and flat so it is comfortable to the top of the hand. I had no problem cutting tatami mats with it. If you do decide to get this one, all you would need is make a new grip for it.
I like the Windlass 1860 and if they made one for left handers, I probably would get one.
I Voted the Hanwei because it's ambidextrous with good hand protection that doesn't have a round grip. If Windlass made a left hand 1860,there would be a good chance I would be voting for this one instead.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jul 3, 2019 4:06:09 GMT
Not only did the thicker foible tended to take a set, but the thinner foible was noticeably easier to cut with against those light-to-medium weight targets, for reasons of quicker acceleration and creating less drag in the target material, I suppose.
And this is why you see antique cutting swords or cut& thrust with foibles that are in the 2mm and under range.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jul 3, 2019 4:00:15 GMT
Very good cutting, and impressive that it went through the cloth. Many folks on the various FB boards are under the impression that cloth will stop everything short of hair popping sharp blades. Great data on the two blades behaving so differently. From my experience, It is true when moving in true times. Moving in false times or standing in place will add more power to the blow which will have a better chance of cutting clothing. While moving in true times I found the a paper sharp sword doesn't cut linen very well. Newspaper and hair shaving sharp will cut the linen with no problem.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jul 3, 2019 3:53:56 GMT
Superdry... a continental European Matt Easton?!?! Great vids and data, and of course good cutting. Still not sure which backsword I want to go for when the time comes. The hanwei scottish backsword and CS mort are close. Thanks, Jordan. My main gripes with the Hanweis is that they’re too heavy in the hilt resp. too light in the blade, for my taste. Still good swords per se, no doubt. And at the same time the Hanwei's basket hilt backsword measurements is the closest to the antiques, even the POB. Now if Hanwei made the basket the correct size the POB would be moved up the blade a little more.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jun 30, 2019 21:36:06 GMT
Wow, didn't expect it to be so one sided! Maybe I've been right all along to stay away from Facebook. I don't know it's always just rubbed me wrong and yea aside from a few catch up things with old friends or long distance family I don't see the real significance of it. It's only one sided because most of the members/or used to be members are on FB. They are a lot of Bladed groups in FB and makers too. Forums and FB groups both have their plus and minuses so I'm on both. I find Fb more easier to keep up with all the groups then going on different forums. Everything is in one spot.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 22, 2019 15:39:25 GMT
Afaik 5160 is/was better for the smithes because they had less quenching failures with it. I'm not sure if a customer ever experiences the difference between 5160 and 1060 on an otherwise similar blade. What would that be, taking a set after a 100° bending instead of 99°? From what Peter Johnson and other smiths said on a FB sword group that the newer 5160 is starting to have more failures and the forges that are making it aren't showing the make up of it(If I remember that part correctly). Alboin has already changed steels. I know the blanks were made with 1075 but I forget what they are using for their swords. From my experience 1060 dulls faster than 5160 and anything that is under 1060 dulls even faster. I know some members here won't buy anything under 1060.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 22, 2019 6:56:30 GMT
Is your belt also made for a left hander? Bought all of my exemplars from that German site "Schwertshop". They sell them with a scabbard, but without a belt.
Edit: According to info from this thread
these are made from 1045 instead of 1075, like the RK Euro models seem to be. Otherwise they seem to be rather identical. Deriving from my testing, I can fully recommend the 1045 versions of the XVa sword.
Oh yeah? From what I hear from sword smiths now that The new 5160 isn't as good as it used to be. They are switching to 1075 and another steel that I forgot because they are close to 5160.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 20, 2019 19:28:01 GMT
I've handled some of the Ronin swords and they feel like a sharpen crowbar. Hmm, the only other RK Euro I have experience with is the #9 Arming sword. Wasn`t very impressed by that either. With the #7 it’s another story – that’s an awesome sword, IMO and I`d prefer any of those I had over the Hanwei and CS offers in that price range.
Have you handled a model #7? No. I haven't handled their model 7. Here it says the belt is made for a left hander. Is your belt also made for a left hander? I'm left handed and that is something that I don't hear to often. www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=RKE7&name=Ronin+Katana+%2D+Two+Handed+Long+Sword+%237
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 19, 2019 20:35:15 GMT
Thanks everyone - I appreciate the insights into the general trends across manufacturers. Deepeka is definitely off my list ;) How does Del Tin compare ? Are they just more expensive because they are made in Italy - or are they significantly better ? In what ways ? What about Legacy Arms ? This will be my 1st European sword, and I’m looking for something that will help me understand a longsword’s pro’s and con’s versus katanas - and plan to subject the sword to lots of dry cutting, wet rolled newspaper cutting, and tire pell bludgeoning. So the characteristics I’m looking for are: 1. historically accurate length / weight / handling (for the Lichtenauer system) 2. good cutting geometry, 3. sturdy construction, and good assembly alignment Unfortunately, Albion, AA and AT swords are outside my budget. Do the swords at the $300, $400, and $500 price points differ in terms of the 3 characteristics above ? Or just in terms of ornate-ness and level of polish ? Are there particular longswords you’d recommend for my uses in the $300-$500 range ? From what I remember when Italy passed a law about no sharp swords went, Del Tin started to change their sword for reenactment. Museum Replicas, used to sell Del Tin sword until they switch to thicker reenactment blades and that is when Hank, went to Windlass. Gen2 changed their name to Legacy Arms and later sold it to Case Iberia. Their sword are what we refer to as beaters. They don't really pass your #1 characteristics. I been going to and hosting cutting parties for 11 years(SBG Nor Ca cutting parties 10 years) I've cut, handled, and sharpened a lot of swords. In your price range, it's going to be a hit or miss on edge geometry. So you should learn how to sharpen your sword to get the geometry that you want. I've handled some of the Ronin swords and they feel like a sharpen crowbar. I personally wouldn't but a Darksword and to not derail this thread that is all that I'm going to say. For your price range I would chose Hanwei, Kingdom Arms(I haven't handled their sharps yet), and there are some Windlass that are good. Some people like Cold Steel longswords. So you can look at those to if you like.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 6, 2019 1:34:07 GMT
Would you happen to have links of any recommended Hauberk and matching coif? I'm going for a 1200s Templar look I dont want something that's going to fall apart but also not getting into stage combat. You haven't really read through this whole thread? If you have you would of seen that blunted mail isn't battle ready. It's more for costumes. I also posted a link for a good Hauberk made from Lords Of Battle. Just make sure you get chain mail that is riveted or riveted with solid rings. So it will be four solid rings(washers) with a riveted ring linking them altogether.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 6, 2019 1:28:22 GMT
It is a bummer. I like Windlass's axes, war hammers, and Polearms but their wood sucks. I have their English War Hammer and the wooden handle broke.
I still have to replace it with stronger wood. So if you or anyone does get one try and replacing the handle with stronger wood.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on May 6, 2019 1:15:24 GMT
Any experience with the MRL German Hammer? The wood, Windlass uses is weak and there is a good chance it will break.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Apr 10, 2019 1:59:20 GMT
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Apr 10, 2019 1:09:36 GMT
You could but the Cromwell, doesn't have a ricasso to wrap your index finger around. Plus the basket makes it impossible to do that anyways. A schiavona, would be the best basket hilt sword for doing sidesword techniques because it does have a ricasso.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Mar 23, 2019 3:02:48 GMT
On the battle field: Spear & shield, axe & shield, and sword & shield. With secondary weapons being sword & buckler and sword & dagger.
Civilian, EDC: Sword & buckler, sword & dagger, with sword & shield(Highlanders main fighting style was sword and targe)
Honorable mention that wasn't really documented. For battle or civilian: sword & hand axe/hawk, mace, or war hammer.
Dense forest: hawk & dagger shorter styles swords & dagger, hawk/hand axe, mace, war hammer, and buckler, and hawk & buckler
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Feb 6, 2019 2:52:25 GMT
A sword that flexes in the middle is do to a bad distal tapper. and blade with a proper distal taper will flex around the last third of the blade.
I didn't like the lack of hand protection that the Cromwell had. That is one of the main reasons that I got rid of it.
With your size ten hands, you might not like the Hanwei Backsword. It might be a tight fit for you but the basket is bigger than the antiques that I have handled.
The antique blades are really flexible in the last third of the blade. I can flex the blades with my pinky. The backsword, that Tom Kinder, made me is really flexible but not has much as the antiques, and I can thrust through a thick gambeson, pork ribs, and into my punching bag with no problem.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jan 28, 2019 3:23:24 GMT
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jan 28, 2019 1:56:28 GMT
Have you guys heard of RingMesh? I don't have any experience with it but there are or were some members here that love it. The price isn't costly of heavy. Ya, and after doing a test cut I changed my mind. However looking back on it I think I wasn’t entirely fair. I think because at the time my objective was to cut through it so I used a Condor Engineering Bolo, and cut about straight down while dropping. Now I see it in a different light, that is wearing it as street wear under my shirt. In the street I suspect my assailant will be using a pocket size folder or box cutter and slashing. I believe that the ring mesh will stand up to that. It is quite comfortable equalling my street clothes and as it is SS there will be no oil or rust issues. Did you make a video of that test? I'm curious to see how you tested it. That's pretty much what it was made for. I don't think they had Medieval weapons in mind. Unless it's fo a costume or something like that. This is the chain mail that I have. 18ga, 6mm, flat riveted, and flat solid rings made by Lord Of Battle.
|
|
Razor
Senior Forumite
Posts: 1,883
|
Post by Razor on Jan 28, 2019 1:35:58 GMT
Damn that would be scary as hell to test out lol. If he wore a stab resistant vest under I bet he could have tried some harder stabs to the stomach. Good stuff though, the heavy maille did excellently. The light stuff I feel would be adequate for todays use against knives and machetes The light stuff, Is Ringmesh . It's looks like it's intended for modern day blades and costuming then it is for swords.
|
|