Razor
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Post by Razor on Jan 31, 2022 17:09:45 GMT
Good evening SBG Forum Dwellers, I am looking at possibly selling off my Albion Crecy. It is a great sword and very nice, but I was never overly thrilled of it because of the grip length. Even though I do not practice HEMA actively anymore (COVID and group dispersing, still do solo drills and whatnot), I would like to find a nice replacement that is a Type XVIa. In particular, I found two very nice options. The first is by Mr. Pearce on KOA www.kultofathena.com/product/tinker-pearce-lightweight-medieval-longsword/. It is a lightweight sword, which in my mind is XVIa (or at least close to). It is better proportioned for me with a smaller blade of 32 3/16". My only concern is at 2.5 lbs. it may be a bit whippy. I never handled a sword that light before, so it is new to me. The second is the Ansbach, part of the collaborative line between Valiant Armoury and Mr. Trim. Currently the only location at this time is on Age of Chivalry located at ageofchivalry.com/shop/ols/products/701-the-ansbach-sword-third-model-collaboration. While the 35" is not nearly as optimal, that really is not a detriment. The weight is the same IIRC as the Crecy but with a much more generous grip length. And it is gorgeous in my opinion. What are your thoughts on the two? From previous experience, what would I anticipate in quality? I understand Mr. Pearce's and Mr. Trim's works are very nice but never had any hands on sampling. For that matter, my experience in quality (from best to worse) is Albion, Valiant Armoury (Special Edition and Signature 2017-18), Cold Steel, and Darksword Armory (2015). Thanks again and I look forward to your thoughts. I have the Ansbach prototype to do a review on. I should have the review up today(hopefully).
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Razor
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Post by Razor on May 5, 2021 5:45:24 GMT
I have been doing martial arts and formally training with the sword since 1991 and started doing HEMA around 2005. I started working with Silver in 2008. When I first saw the video with Winslow/Edelson, It looked like Edelson's interpretation was to support his cutting style. When Edelson cuts tatami he steps then cuts. No where in the fight books say to do that. They either say hand goes first or is the foot goes first you don't know the art. For years people have been giving him crap for it. It's a lot easier just to use Silver and some says that he cuts in false times. So I can see Edelson, make a new interpretation for his on agenda.
I have read a lot of the discussions online and I seen people who are for the "new interpretation" bassing on the old interpretation and anyone that uses it. So I can see why Wagner acts the way he does in the videos.
When I finally saw Winslow's videos, I couldn't believe this is supposed to be new and improved. I don't like it at all. It's really a waste of time to try it out. When I see new interpretations on any style that I do, I try it put and see how it does and if it works. If it's better than my interpretation I will add it. if it doesn't I won't change mine, but it can also give me new ideas and I might find a better way. Plan and simple the interpretation in Winslow's video sucked and Silvernomicon ll is pretty accurate. Since then it looks like Winslow has changed his tune and isn't as aggressive or his followers. I also seen the online discussions with Austwic and Wanger/Hand about true and false times.
For me the T&F times are both the correct sequence in movement and in measure.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Mar 22, 2021 3:49:00 GMT
I have owned 15 basket hilted swords(four of those were training swords) and handled and took measurements of antique basket hilted swords. The Hanwei Basket Hilt Backsword, is the closest to handling like the antique, than any other basket hilt swords that Hanwei, Windlass, and Cold Steel make.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 29, 2020 3:25:07 GMT
I use 91% or 99% isopropyl and a rag or brush.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Feb 20, 2020 7:19:45 GMT
I started with Chinese's sword arts back in 1991. I've been doing HEMA since 2005(that's the year I had a training partner. I don't count the years that I was doing solo HEMA).
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Oct 11, 2019 1:24:42 GMT
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Sept 22, 2019 20:22:43 GMT
It will be in Lodi CA and it will start at 11am.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Sept 22, 2019 17:30:19 GMT
Hello everyone. I'm hosting another sword gathering/cutting party. It will be held on Sunday, Oct. 20th. It is the 8th year I am hosting it and it will be the 10th anniversary for the NorCal cutting party. So sharpen your swords!
These gatherings are also a pot luck so bring your favorite food. Message me if you want to go and I will give you the info.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Sept 5, 2019 7:36:39 GMT
It would be worth emailing Fulvio to get the specifics. A nice looking piece there. The 2159 has a similar backsword blade but longer. The marks though are of the later variety, as he has used the shield post MRL associations and the Passau wolf and Italy in the '80s and early '90s. There is also that there are orders direct with an option for a tighter edge. My 5157 had been ordered direct and was close sharp, readily edged. Also that it may have been a one off basket or proto. The quality of the basket is very good. Fulvio can place it in time. To be honest, it looks like a custom Darkwood Armory piece. The finish is similar to his polished matte finish vs the Del Tin finishes but I may be picking nits. He used to source Del Tin for blades and may still. If Fulvio didn't do the basket then he might have. Nice piece Cheers GC Thank you for the info! Do I find Fulvio's email on the Del Tin web site?
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Sept 5, 2019 7:35:26 GMT
It looks like it has some decent blade geometry. How does it handle? It's a little tip heavy. I would like to see the thickness at the COP to be 2.21mm and go down to lest 2mm if not 1.80mm. If I keep it, I might shave it down.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Sept 4, 2019 2:45:45 GMT
Last month I bought three basket hilt swords, from a guy on a FB group. He had the swords for so long he didn't know who made them. They looked unique and I didn't recognize them, so I took a chance and went a head and bought them. One of them was a Del Tin Basket Hilt sword. I didn't know Del Tin made Basket hilt swords. From what little research that I did, I found out that DT, made basket hilts around 1982 to 97. This sword was made before DT, switched to making blunts. It was made with an edge geometry. Over All Length: 38" Blade Length: 33" Handle Length: 4" POB: 4 1/4" COP: 22 1/4" Weight: 3 lbs Thickness from the base: 4.91mm POB: 4.76mm COP: 3.39mm 1" from the Tip: 2.21mm Tip: 2.16mm The Mouth/Opening of the Basket: 3 7/8"
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 22, 2019 21:16:52 GMT
There have been several complaints about the large grip and that's the only ones that I hear. It can be sanded down for a better fit. I will do that after I finish with my review.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 22, 2019 20:36:27 GMT
Thank you guys. From dry handling, I do like the Condor cutlass better than the CS machete cutlass. My biggest complaint is the handle on the condor. It's big and bulky. Mine is more square than rounded. My plan is to do a comparison review with both the Condor and CS machete cutlass's. It's going to be a hard test with three different types of testing.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 22, 2019 8:26:53 GMT
I have the Condor cutlass. I was going to do a review but I tore my Meniscus. I had surgery on Aug 20th. So when I'm all healed up I'll start up with my reviews that I've been waiting to do.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 18, 2019 18:01:13 GMT
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 18, 2019 17:35:57 GMT
Looking for a basket-hilt, I find it very important to have protection to the underside of the hand. Since I need the additional bars near the pinky, like on the CS. Also I like to have the option of freedom of movement from the wrist (the Hanwei Scottish Backsword is a bit restrictive in that regard). I found the Hanwei Scottish Backsword a bit too heavy, too (again, for my taste). Just with the Cromwell, the grip is a bit round also and the weight centered very close to the hilt.
The blade on the Scottish Backsword is great, imo. I wished they sold a Scottish Basket Hilt Backsword replacement blade, I’d put one on a Cold Steel hilt.
The CS blade is good though, too, if you get a well-tempered one. So if I’d buy any of the options nowadays, I’d first flex test the blade lightly by hand and see if it takes a set. That should be a good first indicator of how well it is tempered. Then return it if it doesn’t spring back to true.
Regarding the size of the basket, that could vary quite a bit, according to my information. I find the size of the CS basket to be just right for me, it's not that much larger than on the Hanweis.
Stats and pics added for the Hanwei Scottish Backsword. By your numbers. Your CS Mot 1 sword fits well with the antiques. The most of the antique basket hilts that I handled and took measurements on seven had a POB of 2" to 2 3/4", three had POB in the 3" range, and one had a 4" POB
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 18, 2019 17:29:15 GMT
I’ve wanted a Scottish basket hilt for some time and nearly bought several times but always backed out due to the basket. I would read a report about the restrictiveness, pressure on a finger, the basket interfered with the hand movement, etc. I am 5’9”. 160 lbs, and have a size 8 (M) hand, and find the CS Backsword allows my complete freedom of movement. In regards to being “close to originals” remember people back then as a rule were smaller. Without having excessively large hands several swords in my collection tend to have grips on the small side for me. The CS Backsword fits me perfectly. People in the early Middle Ages, were the same size as us. The height declined until the 19 century. Tod Cutler, says the hands back then were 3mm smaller. So their hands weren't that much smaller than us. Look at 2:35
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 17, 2019 23:42:39 GMT
I had AC Mort backsword, and Hanwei Cromwell. I still own the Hanwei Mort, but that's a blunt reenactment sword. I have cut with the discontinued Hanwei Mort sharp.
I haven't any experience with CS Mort and that because buying a CS is a gabble. They have been known for bad heat treat and I've seen some break from just cutting water bottles. Plus looking at Markus313 pictures, that basket is overly large. I'm Handled antique basket hilts and mort swords and their baskets weren't that big.
Out of all the modern reproduction basket hilt sword, the AC Mort handles the closest to the antiques. The main problem with the AC Mort is the blade. It's to whippy. I could cut tatami with it but I could feel the blade struggle. I you don't have a 100% edge alignment, you will have a hard time cutting with the sword.
The Cromwell, is good cut & thrust blade. With it's narrow and stiff blade it is more designed for thrusting but it still cut real good. I never had a problem cutting tatami mats or any thing else. The things that I didn't like about it was the basket protection. It has two less bars than most other morts. Plus I didn't like the square piece between the basket and grip.
Out of the three sword you asked about, I would chose the Cromwell.
If you are open to other suggestions? Out of all the modern reproduction basket hilts, I would suggest Hanwei Basket Hilt Backsword. It's the next basket hilt sword that handles close to the antiques. I've own and cut with, and handled lots of Basket hilt sword and the Hanwei Backsword, is the only mass produced one I still own.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 12, 2019 3:11:28 GMT
The sword handled very well. Pretty close to the antiques that I have handled. The blade thickness starts 1/8" and is very whippy. I liked the lines of the Armor Class Backsword and with the unknown issues aside for someone that likes to give point I don’t think that’s the sword for me. I like my CS Backsword and will stick with it. The blade is more flexible than I would prefer but not whippy like that one. And as flexible as it is it will give point to a reasonably resistant target. The grass is not always greener on the other side. The whippy part of the blade was the biggest problem for me. It wasn't bad just because it was real flexible but where on the blade it would flex. Some of the antiques swords that I handles were very flexible but the flex right where they should flex. A blade with the correct distal tapper should flex on the foible. Swords that don't have the right distal tapper will start to flex either in the middle or forte of the blade. My TomKin Backsword, is really flexible but it flexes where it should and I have thrusted through a thick gameson over pork ribs with no problems. So it not just how flexible a blade is but where the blade is flexing that makes it a good or bad blade. Unfortunately the AC blade started to flex more in the middle if not the forte of the blade.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 12, 2019 3:00:39 GMT
Big basket like too big of basket? 7" of grip sounds like a lot. Compared to the antique basket hilts, yes they are too big. If they made the basket the same size of the antiques and the weight that they took off the basket and put it on the forte to make it thicker. Then their sword would feel very close if not the same as the antiques. But there is people that like the overly big modern day basket hilts. It's around the same size of the CS Backsword.
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