Razor
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Post by Razor on Feb 18, 2024 2:41:57 GMT
Cool! I order one and it should be here by Tuesday.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Jan 6, 2024 2:52:02 GMT
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Apr 6, 2023 2:52:21 GMT
I have own two ZT, The D'Capitan cutlass and the D'Capitan saber. I sold the saber. I've handle a bunch of them from friends and I visited ZT shop and got to handle and Play with them. My review sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/33636/zombie-tools-dcapitan-new-videoI was lucky when I bought my cutlass. It was one out of ten made with 6150 instead of 5160. It's thinner and lighter than the ones that was made with 5160. I will always go for the thinner stock because they handle a lot better than the thicker stuff and still take a beating.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Dec 10, 2022 3:04:01 GMT
One reason he is wearing a gas mask, to hid his identity.
Some of his test are really unrealistic. The handle vibrations happened when he was using the machete unrealistically. The nodes could be off but he would of felt that all the time. I once cut a milk jug with a Darksword and the node was off and it vibrated my hand. It wasn't fun cutting with that sword.
In 2019 I bought a CS Cutlass and the Condor Cutlass to do a review. I was at a time when there were some people comparing slo machete swords to real swords. I had three different types of test to compare the slo machete swords with machetes and swords.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Dec 8, 2022 6:52:22 GMT
Yeah I agree that the Ansbach as power and authority. Gus sent me one to review. I have not handled the Stasbourg but I have handled the Tauber and Exeter Longsword. The Tauber and Exeter are very agile. Indeed the tauber and the strousburg are basically the same. The same blade type different furniture. They feel like a very agile dueling weapon, Ansbach feels like a war sword. Of course the Ansbach feels like a warsword because it is a warsword. The Ansbach is based on The ATrim XVIa.1 warsword. I thought the blade from the Tauber and Strousburg looked the same.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Dec 7, 2022 6:48:38 GMT
The Ansbach and Strasbourg are gorgeous and some of the nicest swords ive ever handled. Right up there with my Albions but with better aesthetics to my tastes. Really cool swords, Love Angus Trim blades but his own swords have all the same fittibgs and colors so these are a really cool aesthetic change. I'd say actually the handling on the Ansbach is my favorite. I love the strasbourg too, but the Ansbach has a certain authority and power behind it too Yeah I agree that the Ansbach as power and authority. Gus sent me one to review. I have not handled the Stasbourg but I have handled the Tauber and Exeter Longsword. The Tauber and Exeter are very agile.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Dec 5, 2022 3:05:36 GMT
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Post by Razor on Nov 29, 2022 3:19:53 GMT
I bought an antique cutlass from Rigel and it was exactly has he described it. The communication was good and he even messaged me to make sure I received the cutlass. I will have no problem recommending or doing business with Rigel again.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Nov 6, 2022 4:22:54 GMT
I've owned and handled daos made by Huanuo and I handled LK Chen swords when sharpening for a friend. I recommend LK over Huanuo.
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Post by Razor on Nov 1, 2022 7:51:25 GMT
They have been playing this game for a long time. I played with them, when I visited their shop in 2014. It's a real fun game.
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Post by Razor on Aug 14, 2022 18:28:41 GMT
You know I‘d love to hear your merciless take on this. I see no reason why we all cant have a civil discussion about anything sword related. My only point is that the readily available and cheap soft targets commonly used in the sword community today may be skewing our perceptions about edge geometry and causing manufacturers to make swords with edges optimized against those targets in particular. Unfortunately we really don't know much about medieval Euro swords as few survived, much less with their original edge geometry intact as compared to all the Japanese swords reverently preserved and handed down thru the generations that show us exactly what was being used 600 years ago in Japan. Your statements in this thread doesn't really make sense. You don't need a very sharp edge to cut through soft targets. This one of two cutting videos I made for the review in the link underneath the video. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/43004/nielo-proto-mortuary-swordIf the only targets that are going to be used to cut are soft targets like milk jugs, water bottles, pool noodles, 2 liter soda bottles, and similar targets the edge doesn't need to be sharper than paper sharp. The edge can be less than paper sharp and still cut through a lot of soft targets. Pool noodles needs speed with sharpness comes in 2nd. It also depends on the plastic to see how well the sword will cut. Soda bottles needs a sharper edge to cut than a water bottle and water bottles needs a sharper edge than milk jugs. That's why I only used mike jugs in my two cutting videos I made for the review. When an edge isn't sharp enough to cut through bottles what happens is that the bottle will tear, rip, explode, or be batted away. If you want to do multiple silent/static cuts on the same bottle, then the edge will have to be very sharp to perform that trick. What would be a good cutting test for Alientude on this review would of been a milk jug and 2 liter soda bottle and see what the sword could do. Then pull a t-shirt over a milk jug and 2 liter and see if the sword can cut through that. If a sword that is designed for cutting and can't cut through a t-shirt, that edge is too dull. In the late 90's I had a Chines broadsword that wasn't paper sharp and I was cutting hanging 1 gallon water bottles from a tree branch, pumpkins, and pig melons(wild wartermelons)on a tree stump. Sometimes it would tear through the the gallon bottle.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 14, 2022 6:48:12 GMT
25 degree per side or total? :) 25°/side. This is what I use on my working tools and just carried over to my swords to lessen chances of damage. I’ve whacked through a pig’s leg on several occasions with no issues. But in view of the video and my experimentation with 22½° I think I’ll go that route. Just needed a little nudge. I can shave with the 25° edge so wasn’t in a hurry to change, just needed a nudge to get started. I find when an angle is more than 22 the blade starts loosing it's cutting capacity. You can test different angles on the clothing worn in your area. If I remember correctly you live on an island or a hot climate?
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Aug 14, 2022 6:34:58 GMT
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Post by Razor on Jul 25, 2022 1:25:38 GMT
Over the years in sword forums and sword groups there as been a lot of debates on edge sharpness. Things like a sword should be table knife sharp. Another common saying is that a razor sharp edge is to thin and will damage easy. and many other opinions on the matter.
From reading historical writings, European fight books, personally handling antiques, 31 years of martial arts(main reason I started was to learn how to use a sword), test cutting with swords since the late 90's, learning from sword researchers, and swordmakers come to the conclusion that swords were very sharp...Razor sharp. Specifically using the techniques that is described in the fightbooks, a sword needs to be extremely sharp.
Force is another factor to comes into play. The duller a edge is the more force is needed to cut and if a sword is to dull it won't cut at all. There is one guy that used to cut tatami with a sword that was so dull he would run his hand up and down the edge. The problem is, with the force and technique that was needed to do the cut would get himself killed if he did in a fight.
If we all ran around half naked, like an 80's barbarian B movie, then swords wouldn't have to be that sharp. The problem is we do wear clothing and a very sharp blade is needed to cut through them.
There is basically three levels of sharpness that I use to keep things simple.. They are paper sharp, newspaper sharp, and hair shaving/razor sharp.
Years ago at one of my sword gatherings/cutting parties, someone brought linen. So we wrapped five layers of linen around a Mugen Dachi tatami mats. There were swords there that had a three levels of sharpness. The Newspaper and razor sharp swords did very well. They both cut through the mats. The paper sharp sword didn't do so well compared to the sharper swords. It cut through the linen but only marked the mate. I always wanted to go back and do more testing on the difference level of sharpness.
I got a chance to and made this video. The target that I will use on this test is a gambeson over pork ribs tapped to a punching bag.
Enjoy 🙂
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Post by Razor on Jul 25, 2022 1:07:37 GMT
Nice review. I also liked your recent different sharpness demo video as well. Have you done any video tutorials on sharpening? I’ve got several Albion’s and Atrims in the paper, or maybe approaching newspaper sharp, but nothing shaving sharp. And I’m not willing to try and sharpen them and risk scratching or messing up the geometry. I need a lot of practice on some of my lower end swords first. It would be nice to see how you sharpen or if you can put up a link to this if you’ve done one in the past. Thanks. Thank you Kclee008 No I have not made any tutorials on sharpening and I'm not going to anytime soon. I've only taught people in person and I did a workshop at a HEMA school. I use a 1x30 belt sander that I learned from TomK's videos in this link. There are also other good videos out there teaching on 1x30 blet sander. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/18720/sharpen-any-production-sword
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Post by Razor on Jul 19, 2022 2:07:46 GMT
Reimagined ATrim XVIIIb.1 By Ray Harrington Introduction Knowing that I have an AT1520 (aka XVIIIb.1), Gus asked if I would like to try out the new one and compare the two for a review. I was excited to except the offer. For the review I will refer the reimagined longsword as "B.1" and the older longsword as "1520". Full Disclosure Gus has sent swords to try out and sell at my sword gatherings/cutting parties, and this is the second sword he sent me for a review. I do not work for ATrim nor did I buy this sword. When I'm done with the review I will be sending the sword back. AT1520 Gus says my 1520 was made before 2007. I bought it second hand from Yeshua's Sword. Yeshua's Swords made a sent stopper pommel and hot blued the pommel and the original cross guard. Yeshua's Sword did a fantastic job with keeping the weight of the new pommel the same as the original pommel. Original Pommel Initial Impression When first picking up the sword I could really feel the blade presence. I could tell the blade on the B.1 is wider and heavier than the 1520. The B.1 seems to lean closer to a warsword than a longsword. Statistics B.1 1520 Overall Length: 48" Overall Length: 48" Blade Length: 37" Blade Length: 36 1/2" Handle Length: 9" Handle Length: 9" POB: 5 1/2" POB: 4" COB: 23" COB: 21 1/2" Weight: 3.06 lbs Weight: 2.53 lbs Thickness Thickness At The Cross Guard: .25" At The Cross Guard: .19" POB: .23" POB: .17" COB: .17" COB: .15" 3" From The Tip: .11" 3" From The Tip: .09" 1" From The Tip: .9" 1" From The Tip: .08" Width Width At The Cross Guard: 1 7/8" At The Cross Guard: 1 13/16" POB: 1 13/16" POB: 1 11/16" COB: 1 3/8" COB: 1 5/16" 3" From The Tip: 7/8" 3" From The Tip: 3/4" 1" From The Tip: 5/8" 1" From The Tip: 3/8" ATrim XVIIIb.1 Gus, looks at the whole thing about swords differently than he did 18 years ago. His perspective is quite different. The idea for the 1520 was to look as much as possible to the originals. Gus told me that he missed the 3d part of it. His emphasis changed since then, and wanted his blade geometry to be closer to historical accuracy. With this manner, he can get his swords closer to historical handling. The forte was thickened to stiffen it up so it would be more rigid than the 1520. Striking the pommel on both swords, I can really see the difference in the forte between the two. The B.1's forte is noticeably more rigid than the 1520's forte. There is a good amount of vibration on the forte when striking B.1's pommel. It's not as pronounced like it is on 1520's forte. B.1 Blade B.1 Hilt Comparison These swords are two different beasts. B1 is thicker, wider, and heavier than the 1520 making the handling characteristic very different. 1520 is agile, fast, and I have full control. Even with a cut I can stop it on a dime. With the B.1 having more of a forward blade presence it isn't as fast or agile as the 1520. I don't have as much control that I do with the 1520. Striking a blow with the B.1, the forward blade presence leads the blow and hits the target with authority but sacrifices some of the control. A longsword is a two handed sword that is balanced to be usable in one hand. The 1520 fits that definition where the B.1 not so much. The B.1 leans closer to a warsword/true two-handed sword. I can swing the B.1 with one hand but without a lot of control. With the balance of the B.1, I do not have the dexterity to fight with it one handed. I'm confidant in using the 1520 in one hand even though it wouldn't be as dexterous as a single hand sword. Blades 1520 is on top and B.1 is on the bottom. Another noticeable deference between these two swords are the points of the blades. 1520's blade tappers to a acutely sharp point. The B.1's blade is wider and graceful, and curves to a sharp point in the last couple of inches. Both tips fit the characteristics of type XVIII's swords, where 1520's tip resembles more of the sub-type XVIIIb. Gus purposely designed B.1 point to be wider to be able to do tip cuts on heavier clothing. Cutting Video B.1 As you can see in the video, the sword cuts amazingly. I wouldn't expect anything less from a Atrim. Cutting Videos 1520 These three videos were taken at two of my sword gathering/ cutting parties with the original pommel. The first video was taken seven years ago and the other two six years ago. As you can see in the videos, both these longswords perform essentially well. Thank you for checking out my review. Ray
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Post by Razor on Feb 4, 2022 3:49:53 GMT
It is true that beach mats aren't true tatami but a double rolled beach mat makes a good target. Plus they feel closer to flesh and muscle than tatami. I've cut pig heads, pork ribs, other meat, and bones. Cutting a target that is skin, meat, and bone you won't feel any resistance or very little until the blade strikes the bone. You will feel more resistance cutting a beach mat than you would cutting meat with the same thickness.
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Post by Razor on Feb 3, 2022 3:18:02 GMT
Looks great, too bad about the tip though, who was the carrier who shipped the sword? It was Fedex.
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Post by Razor on Feb 2, 2022 5:35:56 GMT
The first video has the correct pronouncation of Ansbach (unsbahh :D ), the other two are wrong. Thanks for the review! I know and after reading your post, I deleted the other two videos. :)
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Post by Razor on Feb 2, 2022 2:34:52 GMT
Vision Ancback(Warsword) Review By Ray Harrington Introduction Vision is a collaboration between Gus Trim from ATrim and Sonny Suttles from Valiant Armoury. With this combination, you get Valiant's hilt prowess, and keep the dynamic balance Gus prizes so much. So basically you get Valiant's high end fit and finish with a sword that handles and cuts like an ATrim. Gus sent the prototype ,'Ansbach' for me to review. Gus has sent swords to sell and try out at my sword gatherings/cutting parties, but this is the first time he as sent me a sword to do a review for. I do not work for ATrim or Valiant Armoury, nor did I buy this sword. When I am done with this review, I will be sending the sword back. Gus sent the Ansback the same way he sends all of his swords: in a rifle case. VA will be sending the rest of the line in cardboard boxes. He also mentions that, "It is the prototype, but you could consider it the first production piece too. This is what the production pieces will be like. No changes." When the sword arrived, I was excited and started to cut the zip ties that Gus secures the gun case for shipping. While cutting the zip ties of I noticed one corner of the gun case damaged, and didn't think anything of it until I opened the case. The tip was bent and a little part of the point was broken off, approximately 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch. With further inspection of the case, there is some damage where the tip hit the inside. I can only assume that the case was dropped pretty hard during shipping. I contacted Gus about the damage and was I giving the option of sending him back the sword or fix it myself and do the review. Well, you see the review, so you know what I picked. In the pictures you can see the damaged tip and case, plus a picture of the tip after I fix it the best I could. So if the tip looks a little different than the rest of the production run, you will know why. The sword is named after a city in Germany. I wanted to pronounce Ansback right, so I Googled it. YouTube showed three different way to pronounce it, so I did a little more research and found the one that might be the correct one. I ask someone from Germany which video was the correct pronunciation. He confirmed that the video I thought was right. Here is the video. Statistics Over all Length: 45" Blade Length: 35" Handle Length: 7 1/4" Weight: 3 lbs 1.5 oz POB: 5 1/4" COP: 22" Width from base: 1 7/8" Width from COP: 1 9/16" Thickness: At The Guard: 6.39mm, POB: 5.89mm, COP: 4.25mm, 8"from the tip: 3.41mm, 4" from the tip: 2.87", 1" from the tip: 1.63mm The Blade The blade is a type XVIa, with a 20 3/4" fuller. It is based off of ATrim model VXIa.1. The edge came paper sharp with no burrs runing down the edge. The blade is made of 5160 high carbon steel with a hardness of 51-53 HRC. Cross Guard The guard is curved and waisted on the width and thickness on the squarish arms. Handle/Pommel The Ansback has a waisted handle that is made from poplar wood and covered with leather. The handle has three risers with a oval cross section on the top part of the handle, and a hexagon cross section that tapers down to the pommel. It is a very comfortable handle that indexes well for a good edge alignment. The handle width at the guard is 1 19/64", above the middle riser 1 13/32", at the pommel 29/32". The pommel is a scent-stopper, that has a pear, hexagon shape, that has been hot peened. The pommel is 2 1/4" long. The thickness of the pommel at the handle is 43/64" and it's thickest part is 1 13/32". Handling/Test Cutting As stated before, the Ansback is based off of the ATrim XVIa.1. This is a warsword that has blade forward presence to deliver powerful blows and still have the the balance to easily control, which allows precision cuts. This sword handles quite well and flows from guard to guard, as well as when I'm cutting with it. Gus calls this a warsword, as it isn't as agile as the longswords he makes. The Ansback would be a good sword for cutting tournaments and for anyone who wants a sword that hits hard, cuts with authority, and is still agile enough to do precise thrusting. I have three simple categorizations of sharpness. The first being paper sharp, second is newspaper sharp, and the third being hair shaving sharp. The duller the edge is, the more force and speed is needed to cut. Sharpness is also needed to cut through other material such as fabric. From my own testing plus what I have read in historical writings, archeological findings, and highly regarded sword researcher and maker, swords were extremely sharp. If a sword is duller than newspaper sharp, I consider it dull. Gus gave me permission to sharpen this sword to hair shaving sharp for the test cutting in the video. Thank you for reading my review. Ray
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