pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Jul 24, 2022 14:16:02 GMT
I gave some to a neighbour’s kid after clearing it with his father. The boy was delighted. You could also use it for a project or experimentation work.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 24, 2022 14:02:59 GMT
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Post by pgandy on Jul 23, 2022 0:36:08 GMT
FWLIW, as an informed user of Japanese swords, I see the blade and the koshirae as separable items. It's only a military collectible with the gunto parts installed. I'd add civilian koshirae put together for JSA, along with a shirasaya for blade storage, and make it a full set, along with the documentation, and submit the blade to NTHK stateside shinsa at one of the shows to get some origami for the blade. I'll note that I feel that the blade may be more valuable than anyone else has estimated, and probably worth a sashikomi polish. Excellent, best suggestion yet.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 22, 2022 18:49:33 GMT
FWIW as an x military collector I much preferred the original.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 22, 2022 18:46:16 GMT
dont have any steel rods on hand, but ill persist with the nickel I know you have a knife lying around. Use the spine. Might place tape over the cutting each to allow use in both hands. I eliminated a roll in a machete more than once using a knife’s spine.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 22, 2022 17:29:58 GMT
Worked on it some with a nickel, and its a little better. however is there any better object to do this with? its kinda hard to do with a coin. Also theres some minor corrosion on the hamon next to the roll, wondering if thats an issue to look out for. The blade is probably 10+ years old at this point, so its not that big of a surprise that theres a little corrosion here and there See my post from yesterday at 06:40, also randomnobody’s from yesterday. The rust will only grow if left alone. If you catch it early enough WD-40 and #000 steel wool will remove it and all traces. In the next stage they will remove the rust but not the stain. Still in the later stages they will remove the rust but not the pitting. Because the blade has 10 years or 20 there should be no rust if properly maintained. If that’s the answer you are looking for.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 22, 2022 16:02:10 GMT
Let me be the first to welcome you to the forum.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 22, 2022 2:20:57 GMT
lol ill try it on a kitchen knife for practice then. guessing spot polishing probably ruins the geometry of a sword I can think of several reasons but it’s bedtime so I’ll just say that the finish will never match.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 22, 2022 0:46:07 GMT
also i was planning on just having the dojo polisher do the spot fix. Ofc i wouldnt want him to repolish the whole sword NO! NO! NO! A thousand times no. No spot polishing. At least the entire one side of the blade needs to be polished if polishing is attempted, or live with the ding. If you feel uncomfortable with what I proposed check it out on something of no value, a kitchen knife?
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Post by pgandy on Jul 21, 2022 20:28:46 GMT
Before I do any of this I'm going to wait for the polisher from my dojo to respond to see what he has to say. If he can fix it for relatively little money, I'll just bring it to him I don't think you can go wrong doing that.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 21, 2022 18:32:53 GMT
As a team caution stool pigeon I’m bound to tell you the polish ok these and their geometry is really nice. One tiny spot won’t really affect your performance but if the good geo is lost that might. Could you use pure coper or another soft metal to try and correct the roll? I agree that one spot should not affect the cutting on non-competition soft targets. But for me if it was my katana the psychological effect is another thing. I’ve not known of a smooth hard steel rod or narrow bar causing damage, that is why I recommended it over any abrasive regardless of fineness. Use it at an angle as described in the video where it touches the ‘edge’ only. Soft metals will not work as the material needs to be harder than the blade.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 21, 2022 17:23:11 GMT
Obsidian crossed my mind first but I couldn’t think of a practical way to attach them. And I personally would not like something like that lying around with obsidian nor do I know of any safe way. That stuff will cut through a bag. I had a similar problem with throwing stars. I carried them briefly for dog attacks but they would cut through the carrying case. And if IRRC me too a few times, nothing serious but annoying.
PS You'd make deeper cuts with 6 mm steel, if not thinner.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 21, 2022 15:30:54 GMT
I would not use axe blades per se but cut from flat metal of the desired thickness. Four will be all that is needed as opposed to eight ax heads. I would then bore holes through the metal and wood aligning the holes. A little epoxy would not hurt with a roughened surface, but thread wet raw hide through the holes securing the works making the raw hide as tight as possible. Upon drying the raw will shrink making it extra tight.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 21, 2022 12:40:32 GMT
Stropping should not give a secondary bevel, but I don’t think that will be the fix. Stropping doesn’t amount to more than an ultra-fine polish. Honing, the next step up, probably won’t either. For the first fix attempt I would not recommend either nor any attempt that involves metal removal but to realign the edge. Try this, it worked for another chap on his katana and for me but not on a katana. Using a smooth piece of hard steel try to bend the roll back into shape. I’ve done it using a knife’s spine and of late been using a chakmak on all of my knives after use and that seems to make them last longer between a true sharpening. The video will explain. FWIW the in the video the narrator reverses the direction of the chakmak and I use the same direction on both sides, as if that will make a difference. I would like to know the results. If that fails let someone that knows what they are doing handle it.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 20, 2022 17:31:13 GMT
I suppose it depends on the type of recipient as to the reaction. As a kid, WOW!! If someone gave me such a gift I’d be in hog heaven.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 20, 2022 12:52:13 GMT
My 2¢: Whatever you do now artificially to change the saya will be temporary. The saya will eventually adjust to the environment it is stored in, regardless of what you do at present. My advice is to be patient and hope for the best. If you are lucky the tight spot will be near the throat and reachable via file or sanding stick. But give it a month or so to adjust before attempting this.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 19, 2022 21:37:03 GMT
I reduced the foible to tip on my M1860 OM Windlass that I paid $90 for from 3.5 mm to 2.8. That didn’t do much statistic wise changing the PoB from 6.625“ to 6.5 and the weight change was negatable staying at 2¼ lbs. It did improve the handling noticeably. My target was 2.5 mm but I don’t think it’s worth the effort.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 19, 2022 14:18:24 GMT
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Post by pgandy on Jul 19, 2022 12:41:01 GMT
The weight was my biggest objection as it was heavier than the sword it was intended to replace. The ball park figure of the originals is M1840≈2½ lbs and M1860≈2¼ lbs, not using Kelly’s figures. The question that remains to be seen is how much lighter will LKs be? Also, I feel better with a 15 cm grip as opposed to the 13 cm that I first saw. HOWEVER, Pellius is correct in regards to the taper. That will be an important factor concerning handling. The style of taper that he mentions is not singular to the M1860 but to other original western swords as well, something to think about if you intend to expand into western swords.
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Post by pgandy on Jul 18, 2022 20:56:37 GMT
Alright, now it’s beginning to look like it should. The fittings will much enhance the scabbard.
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