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Post by pgandy on Aug 13, 2022 13:54:35 GMT
I like the subdued brass. And the grip appears fat even before the second photo with you gripping it. A 4 lb. one hander, obviously designed for a real man in mind. Grip Banding this one?
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Post by pgandy on Aug 12, 2022 14:05:57 GMT
I like ndave’s answer. In reality, like all enthusiasts, sword collectors are opinionated. I use mineral oil because it is one of the two oils available to me. And can be used on metal as well as wood. I do have some wood oils that I bought when I was out of country that I husband. The other oil is ‘Adarga Aceite’ which translates literally to Shield Oil in English. It has the same characteristics as 3-IN-ONE, colour, viscosity, odour, and is the one that I use the most on metals. I have used others and most with good effects. But to swear up and down that mineral is the best and the only one that I’d use on a katana, or on steel in general is nonsense. I also use WD-40, but technically that is not oil.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 11, 2022 13:58:01 GMT
Welcome to the forum. You might get a better response if you use one subject at a time with more detailed photos of that one subject, then move on to another in a different thread.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 10, 2022 12:53:39 GMT
There you go with two, sport.
Not a Scarlet Sunrise, but nevertheless.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 10, 2022 12:19:25 GMT
I cannot add anything new here, LK Chen. That gives a 100% consensus, unusual for anything.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 10, 2022 12:15:27 GMT
One grip is shinier than the other. Is that because one is unpolished, lighting, the nature of the horn, or? The points appear wicked. As usual Purna is Purna and that fellow was a good find. Here’s hoping your personal problems are soon solved, if not already.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 9, 2022 17:46:10 GMT
Look forward to seeing it. Me too.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 9, 2022 16:29:00 GMT
Like Pellius I’m glad to see you branching out. Unlike Pellius I started with katanas then got interested in Chinese swords before the European stuff. I like sabres but find cavalry sabres a bit long for my tight quarters and more blade heavy than my preference. In other words, not the best for fencing. I do like sabres but only have two for dismounted use. A CS USMC NCO Sabre, the better of the two, and a Universal M1902 that I cut with and enjoy its handling. Originals can be found on Amazon and eBay at most economical prices if that's your desire. I got mine new from KoA. That one is light, agile, and fast. It’s also nickel plated. I dare say that my Windlass OM M1860 will out cut it, although I do not recommend that sabre because as it comes it’s a dud. Over time I’ve put much work and effort into improving mine and am satisfied but find either of my other two much better in all respects except power.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 9, 2022 12:32:50 GMT
That is a shamshir. For further general information check en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shamshir . They need attention as randomnobody pointed out. Rather than oil at first as he suggested, but not wrongly, I’d apply WD-40 and #000 to the blades immediately but no abrasive more aggressive. Also use a wood oil on the handles least they may start cracking.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 9, 2022 2:37:18 GMT
Matt Easton did a review on Windlass’ Regimental Kukri (Mk3) that they sent him which I considered a thumbs up. What I received was the worst specimen of any Windlass product I own. Not just the worst but was downright bad. My purchase was not because of Easton, but the Mk3 had been on my list for some time and when it became available I bit. I like Windlass’ knives and feel that they do a better job on those than their swords. It took much work on my part and in the end I use it more than my other kukris for garden work, but it is far from the best. Lol I think you sent this in the incorrect thread That was another instance of a company sending a good sample to a well known and respected reviewer then marketing a lesser quality product.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 8, 2022 14:18:14 GMT
Strange, that could be caused by climate conditions. My first response is to shim, but if you have tried that I would try CA glue or better(?) Loctite 242 as clean up, if necessary, is easier and you will have more working time to adjust. 242 is designed primarily for threaded metal shafts but I have used it for wood to metal. The 242 sets up in 20 minutes and clean-up is easily done with a paper towel and it’s blue when wet making it visible, reducing any surprises that you may find later. Whatever you chose I would recommend gluing one side of the koiguchi only after roughing it up for better adhesion. I say one side only to allow for the saya to change sizes due to climate.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 8, 2022 13:29:45 GMT
Matt Easton did a review on Windlass’ Regimental Kukri (Mk3) that they sent him which I considered a thumbs up. What I received was the worst specimen of any Windlass product I own. Not just the worst but was downright bad. My purchase was not because of Easton, but the Mk3 had been on my list for some time and when it became available I bit. I like Windlass’ knives and feel that they do a better job on those than their swords. It took much work on my part and in the end I use it more than my other kukris for garden work, but it is far from the best.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 20:15:09 GMT
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 19:29:39 GMT
That’s not as bad as I thought. And I think a pro can easily repair it. However, if you want to attempt it yourself I have the following advice:
If you use any tool similar to a vice, piers, vice grips, etc. Use it padded otherwise you will imbed everlasting marks from the teeth. Leather will work. I use to have my vice I lined with lead. I have also used wooden blocks.
If that was mine I use a metal anvil and try with a mallet. Or sandwich the tip between a metal anvil and small sheet of steel and hammer. I’ve used the latter.
It maybe necessary after getting it reasonably straight to finish the job with just a anvil and mallet. Or fine tune it with a padded vice gripe.
Whatever, go slowly and carefully studying the effects as you go as not to continue with something that is giving adverse results.
Lot of luck.
PS And then there are the YouTube videos that may give you an idea you like better.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 16:50:56 GMT
“Finding a qualified professional appears to be easier said than done.” Yeah. Sorry, I know of none. However, this forum has several smiths as members, maybe they can be of service. Search the “Manufacturers and Vendors Talk” sub board under “The Marketplace” for names and links. If no luck there I’d contact Matt Easton as he deals in antiques and has no doubt faced a similar problem. He is located in England though. Do a search on YouTube using ‘Matt Easton” or ‘scholagladiatoria’ as a start. I wish that I could be of more help as that sword deserves restoration.
Easton has a video or two on straightening blades but his examples use bends less complex than yours. Also, search YouTube using “straightening sword blades”. There are several videos there. I have not reviewed them. You may find something, but I warn you that anybody and his brother can post on YouTube. Take what you see with a grain of salt. Really, I’d exhaust my search for a professional first.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 14:38:49 GMT
You don’t say for what purpose. Most militaries now use unsharpened ss blades, which is fine for the purpose. Blade enthusiasts would call them SLOs. Best check on what is offered before buying. Don’t expect to receive one sharpened regardless of what you buy, an official authorized model or replica. Of the choices above, and there appears to be some good ones although I did not check them out, also there is Universal’s model. KoA presently has this is stock. www.kultofathena.com/product/victorian-life-guards-officer-sword/ My experience with Universal’s swords has been good. Generally the finish is excellent. However, there are some characteristics I find that I’d like to point out as they may nullify your desire. This particular sword is of EN9 steel. I find their EN9 blades to be a bit on the soft side. I don’t think it’s the EN9 but their tempering process for that steel. They can be sharpened to a cutting edge. I’ve never damaged an edge on backyard targets but the edge needs to be dressed down more frequently than my other blades. They tend to be blade heavy. The etching on the one etched blade I received from them is less than perfect, but by no means noticeable at arm’s length. It should also be noted that blade is more lavishly etched than the Guard's blade. They are very well finished and make nice pieces. KoA offers a sharpening service on this one. If you choose that I would make sure to specify to sharpen the true edge from just forward of the etching to tip as not to ruin the etching. And the false edge from just forward of the fuller to tip. Otherwise they may miss that portion. Don’t worry, you will still be able to cut with it if that’s your intension. Check the other offerings first. Personally I would seriously consider this one. But then I don’t know your intended end use.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 13:23:53 GMT
A tourist sword, possibly a theatre prop. Welcome to the forum.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 6, 2022 20:59:27 GMT
Another practice trick that came to mind later that can be practiced now is one that my x-marine buddy taught me. It reminded me of an exercise the army used but with rifles with a slightly different twist. All you need is a sheet of blank paper, a pencil w/ eraser, and tape. Make a small dot on the paper, smaller the better. That will be your aiming point. Tape the paper to your back stop, a wall, door, whatever. With the muzzle straight up and drop the pencil in, eraser first. Then carefully lower the pistol to the target keeping the eraser in the rear most position in order for the firing pin to make contact. Your range should be closer than the length of the pencil in order that it does not fall to the deck. Aim, squeeze off. Repeat twice more. The idea is to make a small triangle. Great if you wind up with one dot from the impacts. In other words, it’s an exercise in trigger control.
A thing about the wax bullets if you go that route, use a double boiler or a make shift one by placing the pan containing the wax in another with water. DO NOT HEAT THE PARAFIN DIRECTLY.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 6, 2022 19:31:46 GMT
The wax/plastic bullets that mentioned above make good, inexpensive practice rounds to work on group size. And does give the user a chance to work on his sight picture and follow through.
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Post by pgandy on Aug 6, 2022 19:02:58 GMT
FWIW I use to melt paraffin, let it solidify, then pressed a brass case into the solidified wax then removed. The brass would pull up a plug of wax leaving a cylinder of wax in the case’s mouth. Then I would fire using only a primer, in my case the attic. But almost anywhere will do, your living room, basement? I forgot what I used as a backstop, I think a cardboard box using a towel to catch the wax bullets. When the wax source was exhausted I would re-melt the bullets and repeat. I think somebody copied the idea using plastic bullets and case commercially. I don’t know if the commercial version still exists. But a fun, convenient, and cheap way to shoot that Colt.
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