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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 13, 2021 22:48:45 GMT
Glad you all like it! Thanks for the comments, I appreciate that ;)
Now that I believe the sword is in its final form it might be time to look for a suitable scabbard...
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 8, 2021 23:36:59 GMT
While stepping can make it easier to incorporate the hips to generate power (careful though, don't step first and then cut, as you often see with people who cut a lot but don't fence/fight), it also makes it harder to get edge alignment, cutting angle and and/arm-movement right. I suggest continuing without stepping first, focusing on increasing speed in the strike while maintaining correct blade alignment. Try not to strike "harder" (to avoid trying to muscle the sword), try moving the blade tip faster while maintaining a fairly relaxed posture. You can impart some hip movement without stepping, too. Once that works, start incorporating footwork.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 8, 2021 8:51:29 GMT
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Feb 26, 2021 15:57:31 GMT
I would not trust that blade anymore and return it if possible. If it were mine, I'd see if it can be ground out.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Feb 7, 2021 9:03:29 GMT
Hi Greg. Some of the old timers are still around...
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Sept 1, 2020 18:18:00 GMT
File test (regular good quality file, blade should be difficult to file, compare to a blade of known quality and mild steel) and do some gentle edge testing against mild steel.
What steel type exactly the blade is made off is impossible to determine without lab equipment and not necessary. You just need to assess whether heat treatment and material are good enough.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 30, 2020 16:36:39 GMT
Mike Harris... Excellent Atrim reviews and cutting videos. RicWilly, fun guy in a pink dress... RIP my friend.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 7, 2020 21:53:51 GMT
Yeah, safe travels, friend!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jun 26, 2020 20:01:49 GMT
How long is the blade?
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jun 9, 2020 17:10:40 GMT
I would recommend you check out the CZ P10C. I chose it over the Glock, it fits my hand better, is very ergonomic and shoots great. No complaints.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Jun 4, 2020 20:15:15 GMT
I think these are filled up casting flaws. The filler material is a different metal and shows up slightly, especially after some very mild surface oxidation.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 17, 2020 12:42:35 GMT
Yes, no heat involved. No, not very powerful hammering just patience and lots of light-medium force taps. Use a ball peen hammer to get things started, striking in the middle and working your way outwards. Go slow and precise or the metal rim you're creating can split. Leave no more than 3mm standing before you peen, 2mm is usually enough. A well annealed tang end is necessary, that's something you can use the blow torch for before you mount the pommel. Heat the tang up to glowing red and let it air cool. Question for you if you don't mind. When i heated the end of my tang to red hot, about half of the tang changed colour to purplish blue. The other half remained normal in colour. Do you think there will be a weak spot formed between the parts heated and unheated? No. What MOK said.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 17, 2020 7:14:25 GMT
Yes, no heat involved. No, not very powerful hammering just patience and lots of light-medium force taps. Use a ball peen hammer to get things started, striking in the middle and working your way outwards. Go slow and precise or the metal rim you're creating can split. Leave no more than 3mm standing before you peen, 2mm is usually enough. A well annealed tang end is necessary, that's something you can use the blow torch for before you mount the pommel. Heat the tang up to glowing red and let it air cool.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 17, 2020 7:05:25 GMT
If you want help, you need to let us know what you want to do with the sword. Sparring with your buddies? Then you want a blunt. Hacking apart tree trunks and oil canisters? Then you want something groteskely overbuilt that would suck as an actual fighting weapon but can handle abuse (though there's always a limit), in that case look at Zombie tools or Scorpion swords, BKS might be your thing as well. If you want a sword that is functional in the sense it would be a good choice for sword fighting, then durability is a secondary concern. First, it needs to function well as a weapon and that means it needs to be agile, light and perform well against soft targets with a keen edge and well shaped point. Sure it shouldn't break under use but that's just what swords did and do eventually when used in earnest. But the strongest bar of steel doesn't help you if you're outmanouvered and killed by someone with a sword of half the weight and twice the sharpness.
Albion, Angus Trim, VA, Lockwood swords plus dozens of custom makers can make you a sword any medieval soldier would have been thrilled to go to battle with.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 16, 2020 20:46:58 GMT
What do you want to do with it? Generally speaking, the most modern sharp swords generally have to handle are cutting tests. "Combat" is not something a modern maker is making swords for. However, a good quality sword that is intended to be used (for cutting), largely fulfills the requirements you'd have regarding a sword to be used in combat.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 16, 2020 20:41:55 GMT
Cold peen it, with these torches hot peening is a huge pain, if it works at all.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 28, 2020 7:56:28 GMT
Is the grip installed or can you get to the underside of the pommel?
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 25, 2020 12:01:33 GMT
Looks like a deep scratch to me. Shouldn't be a structural problem. Not that I'd trust a 80$ sword though.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 13, 2020 21:13:31 GMT
I prefer the Munich, having cut with both and owning a Munich. In my eyes it's very close to a perfect longsword. I would not call it a dedicated thrusting sword. It is optimized for thrusting and it does thrust extremely efficiently but it cuts plenty well enough for unarmored combat. German longsword fighting features a good deal of cuts and the Munich can be employed very efficiently for all techniques in the treatises. In modern terms: Full tatami mats are no problem and it really hits with authority while still being nimble and easy to manouver with excellent point control. It's also a lot more durable than the Brescia, for whatever that's worth ;)
One thing to keep in mind: the pommel of the Brescia can't be fully gripped if that is something you want to do with a longsword.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Feb 28, 2020 17:02:18 GMT
Been silent for a while, work and getting my grade 2.
So I took the advice of forum members and found Denmark's best HEMA guys to beat up :) I will post a vid when can get someone to film the bugger.
Some thoughts. I would like input to.
1) Fencing masks just SUCK ! I am very short sighted anyway, with the mask my distance perception is way off, is there an alternative with Plexiglas ? , that would be ok in competition.
2) the points system ( 2 for the head, and depending on system the head is a blocking shot ) means the HEMA guys mainly just ignore body and limb shots then use the space to reposte to the head, this IMHO skews the fight away from a duel ( no armor ) its just not right that a clean body shot would cause no change in the reposte, in my kenjitsu based style every clean cut counts as a blocking shot, so that taking some time to get used to.
3) Are hand shots really ignored? and gripping the blade with the off hand ??? whats that about ? Are you assumed to have mailed gloves on ? If so why not assume chain mail over whole bloody body ? We all know a sword wont cut mail, so whole body ignored lol.
4) not keen on the European long sword, would I get away with custom equal lengh bokken ( about 140cm I believe ) in competition ?
Overall a lot better experience than expected, my cardio is just so so so so bad, so sparing perfect for that, will be there for a month at least even with the points raised above :)
Cool that you gave HEMA a try! Some points I want to make... 1) Fencing masks take some getting used to. I've worn them since childhood (fenced foil as a kid and teenager before I came to HEMA) and I really don't mind them. Get a good mask with overlay and back of the head protector (with a rigid inlay!). My fencing club developed a specific HEMA fencing mask with Uhlmann, if you want something for high intensity steel longsword, I don't think you can get anything better. uhlmann-fechtsport.com/shop/de/fechtmaske-spezial-1600n-extra-mit-hinterkopf-und-nackenschutz-durch-integrierte-kunststoff-platte.htmlIt has extra padding, a steel reinforcement in the front plus slightly lengthened mesh towards the back to avoid strikes hitting the back of the head or the neck. 2) You experienced the point system of the NHFL (Nordic Historical Fencing League). It has a very heavy afterblow ruleset and yes, indeed, it leads to people ignoring shots to limbs or torso. As long as they can riposte to the head, they will in fact "win" the exchange. I've never liked this system (Swordfish uses it also). It is not the only scoring system out there, there are better ones imo. Every system has its weaknesses though. 3) No, they are not (usually). A clean shot to the hands is scored as a point in almost all scoring systems. A handshot with an afterblow to a higher scoring target can be problematic (see 2). Half-swording has already been explained. Not really a thing in unarmored combat. But gripping a stationary blade and cutting around single-handedly is a legit technique. 4) Generally no. Most tournaments either provide feders or require the fencers to bring them.
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