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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Dec 27, 2018 20:06:57 GMT
Wow, can't believe this is still going... you are persistent!!
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Dec 26, 2018 11:21:12 GMT
Herberts book is ok but rather old and a bit outdated. I recommend Keith Farrel's "Longsword study Guide" regarding usage of longsword and Claymore.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 29, 2018 16:25:29 GMT
Dude... 2007.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Nov 28, 2018 20:41:10 GMT
One possibility I have toyed with is getting some original hilt parts and then make the blade for it... that would be doable, much more so than creating a one-off brass guard.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 19, 2018 7:48:43 GMT
No worries, Bill.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 18, 2018 21:06:28 GMT
The Doctor of Death......lol That name is already taken… In any case, interesting bit of info on the .308 and '06, edelweis. A good all-rounder is what I wanted, with plenty of ammo choice to boot. I think the .308 will serve me well in that regard. Though 30-06 is still quite popular over here, some hunters swear by it. And yes, the action is beautiful. Not quite a Sauer (considered buying a Sauer 80 or 90 in fact) but very respectable and overall, it is the better gun for me. tonystark : my gf sure does… I leave the planning to her :D
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 17, 2018 15:11:54 GMT
Short update, in case anyone is interested, I harvested my first roe buck with this rifle. It performed excellently, as expected.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 17, 2018 15:00:44 GMT
A friend of mine has an original that I sharpened for him. Nasty little bugger. Not a finesse sword but excellent for the task it was intended for, as a close quarter weapon for mildly trained soldiers and Police Forces.
Good review! Glad you like your new toy ;)
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 9, 2018 6:05:43 GMT
Historically, a sword specifically for fighting numerous foes would be the two-hander or Montante. I don't have one and it is sorely limited as soon as the fighting grounds aren't completely open so I'm going with the longsword, a sligtly shorter version but still long enough to keep multiple people at bay. As important as the sword type is how you use it, there are specific techniques and it is a different skill from duelling with a single opponent. Most important: don't thrust and keep the blade (and yourself) always moving.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 6, 2018 20:00:24 GMT
In that case, ditch the Glock and get a 9mm 1911 or CZ. They are far sweeter shooting range guns. I'll keep that in mind... though the 1911 look rather huge. bluetrain : yes, it's the bavarian stock. I just love the way it looks and it also fits me very well. I find straight pull absolutely fascinating and the Heym System (Fortner System) is so wonderfully ingenious. Here's a video about it and several other straight pull actions (Heym starts at 11:45):
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 5, 2018 15:58:25 GMT
Very nice! If it's purely for hunting and bringing to the woods, maybe a 9mm Glock isn't your best bet Lukas, despite the cheapness of the ammo. How about a 44 Mag revolver? Or maybe get a 9mm Glock for practice (G17) and a 10mm for the woods (G20)? I highly doubt the 9mm will be enough or a charging boar. The handgun mostly will be for target practice and fun, the cases where it is really necessary to have a gun for self-defense against wild animals and can't use the rifle are very rare. If one remains sensible enough not to follow an injured boar in densest thicket where a rifle can't be employed, there's hardly any use for a handgun in hunting I think. Therefore, I hesitate to spend much money on that, can't justify buying two glocks really. One thing I have considered is a revolver in .357 Magnum, then I could use 38 Special for practice. I must stress again that MOST likely, I will never need the hand gun, most everything can be done with the rifle. In a few select cases it's different but these generally can be avoided.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 4, 2018 20:11:49 GMT
libra : Thanks! Weidmannsheil! I don't think the hunting will slow down the sword making much, my real job's already doing that now ;) The college-times are now over… I will in fact most likely stop taking commissions for swords and only make what I want to on my own time. That stuff I will continue to sell but no more commission work. tonystark : yeah, having one ammo for both handgun and longarm would be convenient. Price is an issue with ammo though, anything but 9mm gets expensive real quick and, as I have discovered, one can blast through handgun ammo very quickly, much more so than with the rifle. I'll do more thinking on it when the time comes, right now my finances are rather strained after buying this beauty, the safe, etc. The handgun really will be mainly for fun, I'd trust the .308 over any handgun anyway when it comes to putting down a boar. Though 9mm is better than a .44 you don't have and a .308 you for some reason cannot bring to bear ;)
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 4, 2018 19:10:39 GMT
Thanks, guys.
I'll probably mostly hunting deer and wild boar, especially the boars are a big problem here. .308 is sufficient for boar and not too much for deer, a very good allrounder I think. Plus plenty of ammo choice. And kicks less than 30-06 ;) Works out of a short barrel, too, which I wanted since I prefer compact rifles. This one has a barrel length of 50cm, 103cm overall length.
Now being allowed and able to purchase guns, a whole new world is opening up. I won't get too much into collecting (I think, lol) but a few more pieces will certainly be moving it. Already have a simple but reliable and accurate .22 for practice (and rabbits), an elegant old 12 gauge shotgun is also on the way. Together with a good rifle in a usable caliber, that's pretty much all a hunter needs around here. I will buy a handgun as well at some point though, mainly for fun. Probably a Glock in 9mm. Some hunters carry handguns in big calibers (starting at .357 all the way up to .44 Magnum) for protection against boars but I will trust my rifle for that. It is compact enough to take it into the brush and the scope can be taken off in a matter of seconds if required.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 4, 2018 14:44:06 GMT
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 17, 2018 20:23:51 GMT
For me it's that since I moved my workshop, I haven't got around to build a new stand. I could cut there (on occasion anyway) though it wouldn't be as comfortable as it was at my parents house. Obviously can't cut in the apartment. I don't miss it that much, I do HEMA twice a week and that is much more important than cutting as far as training swordmanship goes. And we do organize a big club intern cutting event twice a year. Still, would be nice to be able to just step outside and have at it.
Oh and Bill, I'm very sorry to hear about that huge hassle. Hope you manage to transfer someplace nicer...
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 29, 2018 7:27:52 GMT
Yeah, nihonto are best-known for easy maintenance. Indeed, along with their durability and easy of use.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 12, 2018 9:08:21 GMT
Yup. Slender longswords like XVa, XVIIIb really need at least 7-8mm base thickness to work well.
If you are stuck with 6mm, you could make some XVIIIc though. Those are rarely more than 5mm at the base. Unsurprisingly so, given their width.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Apr 3, 2018 20:50:36 GMT
I can't think of any production sword other than the Albion Munich that would fit your bill. I have one, it's a truly wonderful sword. And honestly, if you're really going for "personal holy grain", anything cheaper probably isn't going to cut it.
As far as the Del Tin goes... Bryan Heff has one. I think he quite likes it.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 31, 2018 18:31:58 GMT
Properly peened is better, no doubt in my mind. The argument of easier maintenace is flawed, a properly assembled and peened construction doesn't need any maintenance. Guard and pommel stay in place on their own, the wooden grip does practically nothing structurally, it just gives something for the hands to grasp. The wood can expand or shrink as it wants, nothing can loosen up except maybe the grip itself and in that case, it probably wasn't well epoxied on ;)
The reason threated is seen as easier for maintenace stems from people's experience with poorly assembled swords with a peened construction (Windlass, etc). If the peen and everything else is crappy and losens up then yes, threated means you can try to fix the shoddy workmanship more easily but that's all.
The only exception I might see for certain blunt practice swords (including fencing foils, etc). Wearing out blades is a potential problem there and in that case, you can replace the blade easily, not so the case with a peened construction.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Mar 27, 2018 13:29:08 GMT
True... a dirk would be interesting. I think these can also have a small back edge which would make the most out of their tapering blades as far as thrusting performance goes.
And thanks ;)
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