Zen_Hydra
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Born with a heart full of neutrality
Posts: 2,625
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Oct 18, 2019 2:01:36 GMT
I would take vans advance. He and his brother have been doing a lot of projects lately and more than a few bigger blades. They are trying to get you something they are sure they can make and that you will be happy with. If it feels like crap to you your less likely to use it. Lancelot Chan sold his because it was a tad bigger than expected. I have seen a lot of friends buy big guns and never use them. But if you go big just have the mindset to work up to what will be a hunk of metal for sure. I have been thinking about the smaller version, here is a different version that Van and I came up with: Nagasa: 33 inch (83.82 cm) Motohaba : 4 cm Sakihaba: 3.8 cm Motokasane: 8 mm Sakikasane: 7 mm Hamachi: 3 mm Munemachi: 2 mm Tsuka: 13 inch Nakagao: 12.5 inch I`m wondering how big will this be exactly... I like a giant cleaver type, something wide. But not sure if a 4 cm motohaba will be as menacing. That's still going to be big, heavy sword.
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Zen_Hydra
Moderator
Born with a heart full of neutrality
Posts: 2,625
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Oct 18, 2019 3:28:37 GMT
That's still going to be big, heavy sword. Yes, I would definitely not recommend a 7mm Sakikasane, especially with that Width lol I would recommend cutting that Sakikasane in half. Honestly. I agree with this. Tapering down to 4mm, or even 3mm, will help make this large sword more nimble, and allow it to cut more easily.
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 18, 2019 3:42:27 GMT
Good advice by both of you, I am considering it....just thinking how much less durable it will make the sword though.
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Zen_Hydra
Moderator
Born with a heart full of neutrality
Posts: 2,625
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Post by Zen_Hydra on Oct 18, 2019 3:56:28 GMT
Good advice by both of you, I am considering it....just thinking how much less durable it will make the sword though. Durable to what end? Are you intending to fight cars with it? Mine tapers from 9mm to 6mm, and I would probably reduce that to 8mm and 4mm if did it again (my blade was a kanmuri otoshi zukuri, which also helps reduce weight at the business end). The katana geometry tends to make very rigid blades. After a certain point you are just adding mass without adequate benefit.
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 18, 2019 4:20:47 GMT
Good advice by both of you, I am considering it....just thinking how much less durable it will make the sword though. Durable to what end? Are you intending to fight cars with it? Mine tapers from 9mm to 6mm, and I would probably reduce that to 8mm and 4mm if did it again (my blade was a kanmuri otoshi zukuri, which also helps reduce weight at the business end). The katana geometry tends to make very rigid blades. After a certain point you are just adding mass without adequate benefit. You do make a good point, but I want something that can take a considerable beating, mainly for my own preference of having heavy as semprini things. How does yours handle?
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 18, 2019 4:42:40 GMT
Actually, I'm thinking of making the steel be DH T10. Having a natural hanmon for a more artistic piece. Given how big it would be, I'm assuming it wont be too fragile.
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Post by Richard Arias on Oct 18, 2019 11:55:52 GMT
Actually, I'm thinking of making the steel be DH T10. Having a natural hanmon for a more artistic piece. Given how big it would be, I'm assuming it wont be too fragile. The 9260 will usually take way more abuse. But if you have a blade that big it would be easier to bend and stay bent as a normal differential hardened sword. The leverage points alone on something that length....if you bend it... Straighting something that size will suck... For example Nakamura Sensei found anything over 30 inches on a regular sword with Hamon to be more likely to bend or break. I would generally agree. My blade is 26in to not only make it easier to use but at 8mm thick 35mm wide tapering to 5mm and 30mm wide having a 9in Nakago that goes from 7mm to 4mm thick. It's will be harder to bend because it isn't spread out and it stays solid. Will they even do Hamon and T 10 at that size? The Hamon has to stay generally 1/4 the width of the sword to not be to floppy and weak. But if it's over 1/3 the width likwise it can make the sword have no yield. I would pick a simple Hamon something less fancy that they are confident they can keep in proper proportions.
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Post by Richard Arias on Oct 18, 2019 12:08:51 GMT
Actually, I'm thinking of making the steel be DH T10. Having a natural hanmon for a more artistic piece. Given how big it would be, I'm assuming it wont be too fragile. sinosword.com/Dotanuki-O-katana.htmlYou could buy this one. Or Build a Folded T-10 a little bigger. But again if you went 9mm to 6mm thick and 45mm wide to 40mm for example... And maybe pushed to 32inches from Habaki forward you would have a solid blade you could still use well. It will dwarf most blades people see. A Sensei I know in Japan looked at my 26in weighing in at 1.3kg and said "wow you must be strong" because in Japan that's considered the absolute limit for a "proper" blade for "high class swordsmanship". For example here is the original standard many people copied. And you will find many of the loved models thrown around here fall in this range.... And sit and think how even as a big guy even the sword I just showed goes beyond it.... And your specks are way beyond that. Your specks are a .500 smith and Wesson... How about we build a .44mag classic dirty harry sword? 😁 a. Monouchi width about 2.5 cm (1") b. Base width about 3 cm (1-1/4") c. Tang length about 21 cm (8-1/4") d. Sori depth about 1.5 cm (5/8") e. Monouchi (striking area) f. Hamon depth about 1/3-1/4 of the blade's width g. Handle length about 24 cm (9-1/2"). h. Blade length about 67-71 cm (26-1/2"-28")
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 18, 2019 17:40:30 GMT
Actually, I'm thinking of making the steel be DH T10. Having a natural hanmon for a more artistic piece. Given how big it would be, I'm assuming it wont be too fragile. sinosword.com/Dotanuki-O-katana.htmlYou could buy this one. Or Build a Folded T-10 a little bigger. But again if you went 9mm to 6mm thick and 45mm wide to 40mm for example... And maybe pushed to 32inches from Habaki forward you would have a solid blade you could still use well. It will dwarf most blades people see. A Sensei I know in Japan looked at my 26in weighing in at 1.3kg and said "wow you must be strong" because in Japan that's considered the absolute limit for a "proper" blade for "high class swordsmanship". For example here is the original standard many people copied. And you will find many of the loved models thrown around here fall in this range.... And sit and think how even as a big guy even the sword I just showed goes beyond it.... And your specks are way beyond that. Your specks are a .500 smith and Wesson... How about we build a .44mag classic dirty harry sword? 😁 a. Monouchi width about 2.5 cm (1") b. Base width about 3 cm (1-1/4") c. Tang length about 21 cm (8-1/4") d. Sori depth about 1.5 cm (5/8") e. Monouchi (striking area) f. Hamon depth about 1/3-1/4 of the blade's width g. Handle length about 24 cm (9-1/2"). h. Blade length about 67-71 cm (26-1/2"-28") That is pretty sound advice, makes it much more wieldable. However, I think I'm sticking to pretty much my smaller spec, and just reduce the sakihasane to 6.5mm. I have had a bit too many back and forth with Van and it would be unwise to make too much further changes.
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 18, 2019 17:41:56 GMT
Also sticking with the 9620 spring steel, rather have it built like a tank.
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Post by Richard Arias on Oct 18, 2019 18:15:55 GMT
Also sticking with the 9620 spring steel, rather have it built like a tank. Well with a Chinese forge more than from a normal sword smith you run the chance of getting a lemon. I haven't cut with my current Custom yet. Yes it's a Hybrid of 2 previous versions I owned from the same smith. But I'm treating it very suspicious until I confirm otherwise. It's rare that a blade just snaps. Even under abuse... But it has happened. It's more likely if the heat treatment isn't up to par the blade will chip easier, roll or just dull quicker. My advice start small. When you get your blade cut something like a Pine 1x1 or Poplar if you really want to push it. In my Sino testing I did cuts in the teens on 7/8in Poplar dowels. And many companies would call it abuse. But if your sword chips, rolls edge, or takes a permanent bend from cutting a few dowels then something is wrong. A sword should be able to do a good 500 cuts on mats or soft wood before dulling down. Really good swords you can double that. 9260 will cost you edge retention but give you toughness in the spring temper. You could ask Nihonzashi sword shop. But they have resharpened more blades then any shop I personally know being competition swordsmen and ladies. To sharpen a normal cutting portion of a sword (usually the last 14in) would cost you $90. For yours I imagine a bit more if not double given it will be pretty much two swords. Something to keep in mind for use.
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Post by Robert in California on Oct 19, 2019 3:30:53 GMT
Suggestion, since I married in China and via wife, have more contact with Chinese than other races, socially....not all, but it is not uncommon for Chinese business people (like sword sellers?) to have limits to what they can do well. But they hate to say no to orders that ask for swords outside of their experience and comfort levels. For instance, a Chinese young man I do respect, Van Yang of Jkoo/Sinosword. There are times when I ask for specifications to which he advises against. If I asked for a really long 9260 spring steel katana, I would expect he would advise against due to the tendency of a long, but not too heavy a spring steel blade to behave well, "floppy". So, when Van Yang advises me against one or more of my specification requests, I go with what he says I should or should not do. He knows his shop's smiths. He knows that I am a nit picker for than average, and so tries to guide me into specs that (given good pre-shipment q.c. inspection) I will be happy with. That his people can successfully do. For instance, he sold me an "off the shelf" type 29" dotanuki katana. They drilled the blade for two menuki's, before he caught it...he knows I only like a single menuki, so had a new blade made. BTW, it came out really nice...this 29" Jkoo/Sinosword 1095 dotanuki katana....which I still criticized for some blade rattle. But so far, the sword itself is really nice. Even the habaki fit was good so that in noto, the habaki edge is flush to the point it does not rub the koguichi mouth. This Sinosword dotanuki katana is 2.95 lbs. My favorite Sinosword "backyard beater" 1095 katana is 2.65 lbs. 0.3 pounds difference in sword weight does not sound like much, but the difference in feel and speed and sense of power is big to me. And if I was a samurai carrying a katana around in my obi all day, the lighter sword would be my choice for comfort and speed. Remember a heavy powerful sword is a slower sword. A faster sword is more likely to get the first cut. (not that there is a role in today's world for samurai any longer).
RinC
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 19, 2019 13:50:45 GMT
Also sticking with the 9620 spring steel, rather have it built like a tank. Well with a Chinese forge more than from a normal sword smith you run the chance of getting a lemon. I haven't cut with my current Custom yet. Yes it's a Hybrid of 2 previous versions I owned from the same smith. But I'm treating it very suspicious until I confirm otherwise. It's rare that a blade just snaps. Even under abuse... But it has happened. It's more likely if the heat treatment isn't up to par the blade will chip easier, roll or just dull quicker. My advice start small. When you get your blade cut something like a Pine 1x1 or Poplar if you really want to push it. In my Sino testing I did cuts in the teens on 7/8in Poplar dowels. And many companies would call it abuse. But if your sword chips, rolls edge, or takes a permanent bend from cutting a few dowels then something is wrong. A sword should be able to do a good 500 cuts on mats or soft wood before dulling down. Really good swords you can double that. 9260 will cost you edge retention but give you toughness in the spring temper. You could ask Nihonzashi sword shop. But they have resharpened more blades then any shop I personally know being competition swordsmen and ladies. To sharpen a normal cutting portion of a sword (usually the last 14in) would cost you $90. For yours I imagine a bit more if not double given it will be pretty much two swords. Something to keep in mind for use. That's pretty good advice, so ease the blade into it to test its durability of sorts. I should take that to heart as I'm spending quite a bit of money on this.
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Post by kitkatmike on Oct 19, 2019 14:19:08 GMT
Suggestion, since I married in China and via wife, have more contact with Chinese than other races, socially....not all, but it is not uncommon for Chinese business people (like sword sellers?) to have limits to what they can do well. But they hate to say no to orders that ask for swords outside of their experience and comfort levels. For instance, a Chinese young man I do respect, Van Yang of Jkoo/Sinosword. There are times when I ask for specifications to which he advises against. If I asked for a really long 9260 spring steel katana, I would expect he would advise against due to the tendency of a long, but not too heavy a spring steel blade to behave well, "floppy". So, when Van Yang advises me against one or more of my specification requests, I go with what he says I should or should not do. He knows his shop's smiths. He knows that I am a nit picker for than average, and so tries to guide me into specs that (given good pre-shipment q.c. inspection) I will be happy with. That his people can successfully do. For instance, he sold me an "off the shelf" type 29" dotanuki katana. They drilled the blade for two menuki's, before he caught it...he knows I only like a single menuki, so had a new blade made. BTW, it came out really nice...this 29" Jkoo/Sinosword 1095 dotanuki katana....which I still criticized for some blade rattle. But so far, the sword itself is really nice. Even the habaki fit was good so that in noto, the habaki edge is flush to the point it does not rub the koguichi mouth. This Sinosword dotanuki katana is 2.95 lbs. My favorite Sinosword "backyard beater" 1095 katana is 2.65 lbs. 0.3 pounds difference in sword weight does not sound like much, but the difference in feel and speed and sense of power is big to me. And if I was a samurai carrying a katana around in my obi all day, the lighter sword would be my choice for comfort and speed. Remember a heavy powerful sword is a slower sword. A faster sword is more likely to get the first cut. (not that there is a role in today's world for samurai any longer). RinC Yea, Van warned me that my blade would be tip heavy given its dimensions, but I still wanted a thick blade. So I went for a compromise between my original specs and his advice. He tried his best against stubborn me.
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Post by jackytheblade on Nov 16, 2019 6:27:01 GMT
I took a look at blade runner's sword. I can see the appeal. I could see that striking awe and fear in adversaries. Plus at my size 6 feet 1 268 lbs a regular katana feels like a mid length sword if my Cold Steel bokken is anything to go by. I was looking at getting the mokko o-katana or getting a modified tsunami warlord with a 36-38 inch blade and 12-14 inch tsuka, through hardened instead of folded and DH. The mokko is already available and easily closer to what I want but the warlord modified is closer to what I can afford, however...forging+mailing time. I like leather but for utilitarian reasons, I would go with silk or cotton ito and I like hamon but at the end of the day, I fell a through hardened blade will be more reliable.
Meantime I am getting something else to help me get used to longer blades and work my arms...58 inch 1060 HC nodachi. I may try it out for cutting when I get it.
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