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Post by Jordan Williams on Jan 23, 2019 22:33:14 GMT
Sorry, again no data. I forgot to weigh it before I put it back together. Spanish 1860 LC circa 1870. Tang stamps are "M", followed by a "B" in a poincon, and the Roman numeral XVIII/XIIII that is on the spine of the tang is repeated on the backstrap and grip.    |
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Post by nddave on Mar 31, 2019 16:37:27 GMT
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AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,364
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 8, 2019 12:40:34 GMT
Windlass/Marto 1913 Patton Sword   Just for fun the three slabs screwed on the tang:  Measurements: Length: overall: 107 cm 42,12" blade: 90 cm 35,43" hilt: 17 cm 6,69" grip: 14 cm 5,51" Width: grip: 3,5 cm 1,38" bowlguard: 16 cm 6,3" ricasso: 3,1 cm 1,22" half blade: 2,2 cm 0,86" before tip: 1 cm 0,39" Thickness: grip: 2,9 cm 1,14" bowlguard: 14 cm 5,51" tang/ricasso: 7,5 mm 0,295" half blade: 5,5 mm 0,217" end of fuller: 4 mm 0,157" diamond cross section above fuller: 5 mm 0,196" before tip: 4,5 mm 0,177" Weight: sword: 1465g 3lb 3,6oz (heavier than in Dave Kelly's review) sword & scabbard: 1965g 4lb 5,2oz scabbard: 500g 1lb 1,5oz sorry, forgot to weigh the bare blade PoB: 9 cm 3,54" from guard Vibration node on blade: 26 cm 10,23" from tip |
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jun 10, 2019 3:23:10 GMT
Want to thank you all for your interesting contributions.
7 pages of sword knowhow. A virtual goldmine.
Cheers.
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Post by markus313 on Jun 27, 2019 21:57:32 GMT
Cold Steel English Backsword
The sword could be taken apart easily, there was no epoxy. No visible weld on tang. The pommel cap threads onto the threaded portion of the tang for a length of 1,65 cm. I was not happy with the blade, it takes a set when cutting heavier targets. Out of curiosity I tried to put a metric M6 nut on the tang thread, the tang thread is a tad too thick for that. It can be done with force, but you have to crank really hard to screw it down just for the height of the nut.
I have two other Cold Steel English Backswords (this is the heaviest one) and have also tested the medium-weight with the medium thickness blade. Contrary to this one, the results with the medium-thickness blade where satisfying:
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jun 30, 2019 5:35:58 GMT
Thank you Markus for the interesting numbers. Great job.
Cheers.
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Post by markus313 on Jul 1, 2019 21:37:50 GMT
Thank you Markus for the interesting numbers. Great job. Cheers. Thank you, Uhlan, it’s my pleasure.
Just want to add that that I’ve also taken apart my second one and specs are very close. Cleaned all parts with spiritus, reassembled without the pommel cap/tang-screw, sealed all gaps with electrical tape, filled with 2 K epoxy from the top (along the thread where the cap must sit) using a syringe and a hair dryer, put tang-screw back on. Didn’t take much epoxy to fill out the handle completely and seal all gaps, around 3 to 4 ml, perhaps.
Cheers.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2019 22:56:32 GMT
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jul 5, 2019 6:19:15 GMT
Filling the grip of the CS with epoxy I think is a must.
There is too much space. I pulled off the entire basket, including the grip and pommel, in one go.
Did not need to remove the three little screws that hold the basket to the pommel.
The entire construction, blade, basket, grip and pommel, was held up with some small wooden wedges that promtly fell out due to drying and so shrinking of the wood.
And I still think that filling in the void between blade and basket with copper wedges the old fashioned way or with something else, so one has a ridged construction with the blade fixed, so it will not be able to turn during cutting or sparring, will be of great benefit.
The idea that the tang, due to movement of the blade, may snap off just under the threads, would be enough for me to do something about that. Without some work, easily done, I do not trust this sword, although I must say that there aren't reports as of yet of faillure.
I do not think that screwing a Metric nut on Imperial ( Indian ) threads is a good idea. It will go for some turns and then it stops. The metric nut will eat the threads so to say if the thread metal is softer than the nut when you would force it to go further. Doesn't make a solid connection.
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Jul 16, 2019 20:52:39 GMT
I am kinda out of production sword collecting for the most part, I just occasionally find a sword/deal I've been interested in for a long time. I stumbled upon a really cheap Cold Steel Two Handed Greatsword. After getting it into my hands I don't really like it. Feels pretty darn heavy and it's smaller than I thought it would be. My scale is out of batteries so I haven't weighed it yet.
I wanted to take it apart and thought I'd post pics of the tang to this thread as I remembered we had this going on.
Tang length: 39 cm Width base: 2,5 cm Width tip: 1,0 cm Thickness base: 8 mm Thickness tip: 5mm
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Post by tancred on Jul 17, 2019 4:36:19 GMT
I am kinda out of production sword collecting for the most part, I just occasionally find a sword/deal I've been interested in for a long time. I stumbled upon a really cheap Cold Steel Two Handed Greatsword. After getting it into my hands I don't really like it. Feels pretty darn heavy and it's smaller than I thought it would be. My scale is out of batteries so I haven't weighed it yet.
I wanted to take it apart and thought I'd post pics of the tang to this thread as I remembered we had this going on.
Tang length: 39 cm Width base: 2,5 cm Width tip: 1,0 cm Thickness base: 8 mm Thickness tip: 5mm
Hi Jussi. I think if I remember correctly, you also had an older model Windlass zweihander, except it had a flamberge blade. Is that correct? If so, how does the Windlass compare to the CS? I'm not really interested in the CS, but I do have the Windlass. I was just curious what you thought about the two. Is one constructed better? Does one handle better? If you aren't really happy with the CS, what are you going to do with it? Thanks for the info! |
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Jul 17, 2019 10:08:26 GMT
I just got batteries for my kitchen scale and the Cold Steel weighs 3180 grams, and it is 142 cm in overall length. I just checked the stats I had for Windlass Zweihänder and it was 2675 grams and 161 cm in overall length. So roughly you could say that Windlass is 20 cm longer but 500 grams lighter. I liked the Windlass more than this Cold Steel but I felt at least the one I had was too wobbly. This Cold steel seems to be lot more solidly built but I don't like it in general. It is now sitting in my sword rack next to Hanwei Claymore and they are pretty much similar sized at c. 140 cm, yet the Hanwei Claymore weighs 730 grams less than the Cold Steel. Just handling the two one after another the difference is huge.
I'll need to clean off some rust spots on the Cold Steel, there are lots of staining & starting rust on the sword (condition was described as new, but I knew the sales ad was funky but the price was so low). Then I'll sell it after I fix it a bit. Unfortunately I have to sell it in Finland / Scandinavia / Germany. Shipping to most European countries is now c. 100€ for a sword of this size.  Can't really sell big swords from Finland anymore as a private person. Companies must get different shipping rates. |
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Uhlan
Member
Posts: 3,121
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Post by Uhlan on Jul 17, 2019 17:21:48 GMT
Thanks for adding this one to the database Jussi.
I cannot see it because the last bit of the tang in your picture is kinda dark, but is the threaded part welded on?
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Jul 17, 2019 17:40:34 GMT
Yes the threaded part is welded on. I remember hearing about tang ends snapping on some of these, and it is understandable seeing this construction and given the massive weight of the sword combined with the abuse people might put these through.
I just listed this up for sale in Finland and I made a Dropbox of c. 20 pics of the sword, so you can see different parts of the sword in high quality pics. I just sanded the parierhaken area as I realized I'd do bit useless job cleaning the blade as that doesn't add enough value for the work I have to put in by hand.
Here are full stats of this sword.
Overall length: 142,5 cm Blade length: 80 cm Ricasso: 22 cm Tang length: 39 cm Blade width base: 4,8 cm Blade width tip: 3,5 cm Parierhaken: 16 cm Blade thickness base: 8,5 mm Blade thickness tip: 5 mm Guard width: 35 cm Overall weight: 3180 g
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Post by illustry on Dec 6, 2019 23:20:57 GMT
Deepeeka Teutonic Arming Sword
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Post by bas on Dec 10, 2020 9:27:37 GMT
Warning! Info dump: Dutch m1912 Officers "Wandelsabel" made by Carl Eickhorn from Solingen in the early 1930s.
Length Over All:
| 1055 mm | Blade Length:
| 925 mm | Curve:
| 18 mm | Point of Balance:
| 150 mm
| Sword Weight:
| 720 grams
| Total Weight:
| 1140 grams
| Blade width:
|
| - Ricasso
| 22.3 mm
| - 200mm
| 21.3 mm
| - 400mm
| 19.8 mm
| - 600mm
| 17.8 mm
| - 800mm
| 16.4 mm
| - 900mm
| 9.9 mm
| Blade Thickness:
|
| - Ricasso
| 6 mm
| - 200 mm
| 5 mm | - 400 mm
| 4.8 mm | - 600 mm
| 4.1 mm
| - 800 mm
| 2.6 mm
| - 900 mm
| 2.3 mm
|
Dutch m1852 Jagers Officers sword made by Carl Eickhorn between 1935 and 1941:
| Length Over All: | 985 mm | | Blade Length: | 845 mm | | Curve: | 16 mm | | Point of balance: | 125 mm | | Sword Weight: | 650 grams | Total Weight:
| 1040 grams
| Blade Width:
|
| - Ricasso
| 22.6 mm
| - 200mm
| 21.0 mm
| - 400mm
| 19.7 mm
| - 600mm
| 17.7 mm
| - 800mm
| 13.2 mm
| | Blade Thickness: |
| - Ricasso
| 6.3 mm
| | - 200mm | 5.3 mm | - 400mm
| 3.3 mm
| - 600mm
| 2.7 mm
| - 800mm
| 2.0 mm
|
Dutch m1813 No.1 Light Cavalry troopers sabre
 | Length Over All: | 950 mm
| | Blade Length: | 830 mm | | Curve: | 64 mm | | Point of balance: | 210 mm | | Sword Weight: | 990 grams | Total Weight:
| 1940 grams
| Blade Width
|
| - Ricasso
| 41.2 mm
| - 200mm
| 35.6 mm
| - 400mm
| 35 mm
| - 600mm
| 39.8 mm
| - 730mm
| 43 mm
| - 800mm
| 23 mm
| Blade Thickness:
|
| - Ricasso
| 8.9 mm
| | - 200mm | 5.7 mm | - 400mm
| 5.2 mm
| - 600mm
| 3.3 mm
| - 730mm
| 2.5 mm
| - 800mm
| 2.2 mm
|
Dutch m1813 No. 2 Light Cavalry Troopers Sabre:  | Length Over All: | 1005 mm
| | Blade Length: | 870 mm | | Curve: | 48 mm | | Point of balance: | 150 mm | | Sword Weight: | 1040 grams | Total Weight:
| 2050 grams
| Blade Width
|
| - Ricasso
| 35.8 mm
| - 200mm
| 31.4 mm
| - 400mm
| 30.3 mm
| - 600mm
| 30.6 mm
| - 800mm
| 28.0 mm
| - 850mm
| 14.3 mm
| Blade Thickness:
|
| - Ricasso
| 10.2 mm
| | - 200mm | 6.5 mm | - 400mm
| 5.6 mm
| - 600mm
| 5.0 mm
| - 800mm
| 2.9 mm
| - 850mm
| 2.6 mm
|
Dutch m1814 Heavy Cavalry Sword / Sabre:
| Length Over All: | 1125 mm
| | Blade Length: | 965 mm | | Curve: | 0 mm | | Point of balance: | 130 mm | | Sword Weight: | 1330 grams | Total Weight:
| 2350 grams
| Blade Width
|
| - Ricasso
| 35.4 mm
| - 200mm
| 31.2 mm
| - 400mm
| 28.4 mm
| - 600mm
| 25.3 mm
| - 800mm
| 23.2 mm
| - 920mm
| 18.1 mm
| Blade Thickness:
|
| - Ricasso
| 9.2 mm
| | - 200mm | 6.6 mm | - 400mm
| 6.1 mm
| - 600mm
| 5.1 mm
| - 800mm
| 4.5 mm
| - 920mm
| 3.4 mm
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French AN XI Light Cavalry Troopers Sabre manufactured at Klingenthal in July 1813 | Length Over All: | 1010 mm
| | Blade Length: | 870 mm | | Curve: | 51 mm | | Point of balance: | 135mm | | Sword Weight: | 1190 grams | Total Weight:
| 2380 grams
| Blade Width
|
| - Ricasso
| 37 mm
| - 200mm
| 31.5 mm
| - 400mm
| 30.8 mm
| - 600mm
| 30.2 mm
| - 800mm
| 24.6 mm
| - 850mm
| 13.7 mm
| Blade Thickness:
|
| - Ricasso
| 10.1 mm
| | - 200mm | 6.3 mm | - 400mm
| 5.5 mm
| - 600mm
| 4.5 mm
| - 800mm
| 2.1 mm
| - 850mm
| 1.9 mm
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French Mounted Artillery Officers sabre from the Louis XVIII Restoriation: | Length Over All: | 935 mm | | Blade Length: | 805 mm | | Curve: | 47 mm | | Point of balance: | 100 mm | | Sword Weight: | 750 grams | Total Weight:
| 1320 grams
| Blade Width:
|
| - Ricasso
| 28.7 mm
| - 200mm
| 24.3 mm
| - 400mm
| 23.1 mm
| - 600mm
| 23.2 mm
| - 750mm
| 18.2 mm
| | Blade Thickness: |
| - Ricasso
| 8.6 mm
| | - 200mm | 5.0 mm | - 400mm
| 4.0 mm
| - 600mm
| 2.6 mm
| - 800mm
| 1.6 mm
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A silver hilted colichemarde smallsword. Because there are no hallmarks the hilt is likely to be either 800 silver or nickle. Probably a composit of an early 18th century blade and a early 19th century hilt. Opinions welcome:  | Length Over All: | 885 mm | | Blade Length: | 725 mm | | Curve: | 0 mm | | Point of balance: | 85 mm | | Sword Weight: | 540 grams | Total Weight:
| | Blade Width:
|
| - Ricasso
| 27.5 mm
| - 200mm
| 21.6 mm
| - 400mm
| 15.5 mm
| - 600mm
| 14.0 mm
| - 800mm
| 9.7 mm
| | Blade Thickness: |
| - Ricasso
| 7.4 mm
| | - 200mm | 5.2 mm | - 400mm
| 3.2 mm
| - 600mm
| 2.8 mm
| - 800mm
| 2.0 mm
|
Georgian era (1815 - 1820) Cavalry officers mameluke sabre: | Length Over All: | 930 mm | | Blade Length: | 792 mm | | Curve: | 48.8 mm | | Point of balance: | 130 mm | | Sword Weight: | 820 grams | Total Weight:
| 1300 grams
| Blade Width:
|
| - Ricasso
| 34.9 mm
| - 200mm
| 31.3 mm
| - 400mm
| 29.6 mm
| - 600mm
| 33.1 mm
| - 750mm
| 20.0 mm
| | Blade Thickness: |
| - Ricasso
| 6.6 mm
| | - 200mm | 4.4 mm | - 400mm
| 3.0 mm
| - 600mm
| 2.2 mm
| - 750mm
| 1.8 mm
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And last but not least, a 1796 Pattern Light Cavalry officers sabre of the Yeomanry made by Gill in around 1817: | Length Over All: | 945 mm | | Blade Length: | 825 mm | | Curve: | 56 mm | | Point of balance: | 185 mm | | Sword Weight: | 750 grams | Total Weight:
| 1520 grams
| Blade Width:
|
| - Ricasso
| 40.7 mm
| - 200mm
| 35.0 mm
| - 400mm
| 34.6 mm
| - 600mm
| 39.3 mm
| - 750mm
| 36.8 mm
| | Blade Thickness: |
| - Ricasso
| 7.4 mm
| | - 200mm | 5.3 mm | - 400mm
| 4.8 mm
| - 600mm
| 2.6 mm
| - 750mm
| 1.5 mm
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Link to original thread: Sword Measurements |
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Post by markus313 on May 31, 2021 14:51:03 GMT
Windlass Black Marauder "Rapier" (not a rapier, lol)...
The blade came unsharpened and is of course quite flexible. Did some thrusting tests (on up to six layers of a light cotton shirt laid over a stack of cardboard) with the unsharpened blade and it works quite well despite the flex. Would be good enough to go through a thick coat or jacket if properly sharpened. The guard is fitted well to the tang. The knuckle bow, side rings and quillons seem quite sturdy. The wooden grip is wrapped with some kind of (synthetic?) leather and is almost round. Needs some getting used to regarding edge alignment, perhaps. It's not too bad though. The wooden grip twisted back and forth around the tang after my testings, have now epoxied it to the tang, the pommel, too. The pommel is a screw-on construction. All in all, not as fragile as I feared it could be and a fun sword for the money – if you like that “movie swashbuckler” feeling.
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Can't really sell big swords from Finland anymore as a private person. Companies must get different shipping rates.
