AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,364
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 13, 2017 7:38:12 GMT
Hanwei Taza Cup Hilt Rapier: Easy to take apart, no epoxy, screw on pommel. Threaded rod not welded on. The blade is stiffer and has a much better mass distribution than the Windlass Florentine Rapier.    Weights: Sword overall: 985 g Blade: 530 g Cup: 328 g Crossguard: 148 g Grip: 38 g Pommel: 41 g (very light, not used as counterweight) Lengths: Sword overall: 116 cm Blade rod end to tip: 115 cm Blade ricasso end to tip : 96,5 cm Blade hexagonal cross section to transition point to diamond cross section: 36 cm Diamond cross section / transition point to tip: 60,5 cm Rod section: 4 cm Broadth: Threaded rod: 5 mm Start of tang: 6 mm Tang swelling fast to ricasso Ricasso: 16 mm Blade above ricasso: 25 mm End of hexagonal cross section: 20 mm Before tip: 9 mm Thickness: Rod: 5 mm Tang, ricasso, blade above ricasso: 6 mm End of hexagonal cross section: 5 mm Middle of diamond cross section: 4 mm Before tip: 3 mm PoB: 10 cm from guard/cup. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2017 12:53:52 GMT
Oooohhkeeee guys... got some pics for you here. The first ones are quite nice; they show the blade and the tang area of my Hanwei Lowlander. The last three are not so good - they show both grip ends/openings after a FEW test swings around, when i hear some strange sounds... not really cracking, more like crumbling bread or so... :-( |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2017 12:56:19 GMT
Next question goes to our experts: look at pictures #3, #4, #5 ... DO i have a WELDED tang here? Or am i seeing ghosts? Anyway, the Hanwei curse stroke at me again!
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Post by MOK on Aug 19, 2017 13:23:49 GMT
It does look to be welded, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. It just depends on whether it was done properly, by welding into a recess, building the seam up quite substantially and then grinding it back down to the level of the original surface. If you do that right, the formerly separate pieces of metal effectively become one for most practical intents and purposes. (For some good examples of how this should be done and how strong it can be, check out michaelcthulhu's YouTube channel, AKA "Irish Mike" from Discovery Channel's "Big Giant Swords".  ) The only potential bad sign I see here is something that looks like it could possibly be a small occlusion (is that the right word, here?) at the pommel end edge of the weld, visible in pictures 3 and 4, but it could just as well be just a superficial pockmark, I can't really tell from the photos. |
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Post by Jussi Ekholm on Aug 19, 2017 14:35:33 GMT
Thanks for posting the Holg. Hanwei Lowlander is a sword I have been thinking about for many years but I always find a reason not to go for it. I am sorry to hear you had another bad experience with Hanwei, you've had so tough luck with purchases.  |
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Post by William Swiger on Aug 19, 2017 15:07:12 GMT
I have also looked at that sword for years but the long tang and grip always concerned me.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2017 15:20:33 GMT
Hell, all of them Czech & Polish have LOTS of swords of that caliber in their product range - and theyre not much more expensive, some are less! See Lutel, Regenyei, Kasto, Fabri, Jinoswords... and those are supposed to be full-contact used weapons! So WTF is wrong with Hanwei? If this is a standard issue - and i believe i read some stuff on that - then they shouldnt advertise it as battle-ready, as does virtually EVERY vendor of CAS/Hanwei stuff worldwide! AAARGHHLL!!!
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2017 15:37:04 GMT
Anyway, tang here, weld there... that grip IS a CATASTROPHY, isn't it?
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Post by MOK on Aug 19, 2017 15:41:00 GMT
Yeah, compression fit hilt assemblies and overly loose grip cores don't mix well. Especially when you introduce potentially faulty wood (always a risk with big production runs) into the formula.
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Post by William Swiger on Aug 19, 2017 16:13:42 GMT
I would cut the tang down to about 9 inches and get a new hilt. You could just use the hilt it came with or modify it.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2017 17:45:17 GMT
Nope... it will go back or I gonna sue the he'll out of the vendor. The tang is off-center with the blade - that was the main reason for taking it apart again and checking where the misalignment came from. All that BS assembled here isn't worth 386 Eurons! :-/ so sad... ;-)
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Post by William Swiger on Aug 19, 2017 19:40:09 GMT
Yeah - I would return it then.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 20, 2017 8:32:02 GMT
givin up on german vendors i am... really!
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Post by wolfshield on Oct 15, 2017 3:45:33 GMT
Hanwei Cawood: peened construction: disassembled measurements Total length: 90.487cm Blade width at shoulder: 50mm Blade thickness: at shoulders: 5.64mm Blade thickness 25.4mm from tip: 2.9mm Tang width at shoulder directly against blade: 27.74mm Tang width 6mm down tang from blade: 24.40mm Tang width just before final taper for pommel: 16mm Tang width at peen point: 5.46mm Length of tang from blade shoulders to tip of tang: 14.2cm Tang thickness: 6.24mm Wood grip core is compression and wrapped with approximately .95mm cord under a approximately 1mm thick leather wrap   |
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Post by leviathansteak on Oct 15, 2017 14:41:43 GMT
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Post by nddave on Oct 15, 2017 15:31:40 GMT
givin up on german vendors i am... really! Should've got the Windlass...  |
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christain
Member
It's the steel on the inside that counts.
Posts: 2,835
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Post by christain on Oct 15, 2017 22:00:03 GMT
Wolfshield---YOU DA MAN! Finally---someone with nuts enough to tear into this most beautiful of swords. Thank you. ...Chris |
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Post by 28shadow on Nov 30, 2017 1:44:07 GMT
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Post by leviathansteak on Dec 13, 2017 2:43:11 GMT
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Post by leviathansteak on Jan 7, 2018 8:41:53 GMT
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