Sword Construction Data Base

Thank you for posting. It is important to show what could be lurking under a grip and this is one of the worst I ever saw.

Thanks again and I hope you will be able to turn it into something useful.

Cheers.

Ulahn, was just reading your review of the Eglinton basket hilt-great review- and wondering if you ever got around to removing the pommel. I'm really liking this sword and wondering what the tang looks like, particularly if the threaded portion is welded and if so how well. Thanks.

The Windlass Eglinton Basket hilt Backsword.

This one is build real well.

To take off that massive, litterally and figurative speaking, pommel, you need one of these:



A blow dryer will not do the job. That pommel is screwed on real tight.
Take a wrench to the fake peen block. After heating, the pommel will come off easely. Luckely there is no trace of the dreaded epoxy to be found.
Note that because the pommel is one massive piece of steel, it will stay hot for a long time. In this case for far more than a half hour, so be careful.



The tang  on mine is just under 6.5 mm thick at the shoulders, going to 5 mm in the middle and back to just under 6.5 mm again at the threads.



The threaded section is 20 mm long, more than adequate, because the pommel takes it all in. And what is very good to see is that the threaded section is NOT welded on, but the entire thing is of one piece construction. Very good!



The tang is 14 mm wide at the shoulders. The shoulders themselves are rounded. I have seen worse on antiques. These will do nicely.



The grip is made from good quality wood and wrapped in real rayskin. The wire is held by two little wood pegs at either end, just like they did in days past. Good to see this done the old fashioned way.



The rayskin is a full wrap, meaning that the support of the rayskin goes from beginning to end of the grip. It sits inside the bushings too. Nice.
The bushings are sturdy, with thick walls and can take any pressure.





Though the wood grip may shrink over time and the tang channel is not very form fitting, the construction as a whole is just as good as I have seen on any antiques. As the antiques were made to withstand the regours of real use in situations we do not want to contemplate to find ourselves in today, I judge the Windlass to be more than safe. If the grip should losen in time, a mere injection with a bedding compound will fix any problem.

Conclusion:

Though the Windlass Eglinton is not the best on the block for various reasons as explained in the review, see: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/44322/windlass-eglinton-basket-hilted-backsword?page=1&scrollTo=614584 , the build quality is more than adequate. It is as safe as houses. Period. Well done Windlass!

Cheers.

Hello Findlithui.

Long time no see.
I got the gas from a local DIY market here in Holland. I just showed it, so people do not think the job can be done with a blow dryer.
That pommel is MASSIVE. It weighs 362 grams! I am sure you guys at far away places have something else what will do the job, like the kitchen stove.
You may be right about that tang heating up and I do not know when the heat will influence the temper of the tang. The danger is lurking in the shoulders as far as I know.
The pommel turned ever so slightly grayish, which means it should be in the safe zone still? Under 350 degrees C?
At 350 C steel will get blue. As far as I am told 1250 C was the danger zone and that is light red hot. we do not need that here of course.
I concur that a, what you call ,, nasty '' torch may be better. Point is most people do not have that kind of stuff  laying in the garage. There is an Armour Class it was I think, video on youtube. The guy was heating the tang stub. He used a double hose afair, one oxygen and one the gas from a huge long container. A very nasty little flame it made. Lots of power, lots of noise. Welding torch? Cutter? I am not into that stuff at all. He heated the tang stub above the pommel for a couple of seconds and then started hammering on it for a couple of seconds, then torched it again and so on. It all went very fast, maybe it took a minute at most. I guess that heating such a small point very fast is the trick and that will be difficult for this pommel. I am curious as to what you will find out experimenting. If I can help in some ways just let me know. I have some leftover military blades rusting away in dark corners somewhere....
Nice to talk to you again and thanks for the interest.

Cheers.

Angus Trim 1417 Light Hand and a half

Pommel Type- Hex
Over All Length- 41 1/4"
Blade Length- 33"
Blade Width @ Guard- 1.74",  Midway (16.5")- 1.34",  2" from tip- .88"
Distal Taper @ Guard-.21" ,   Midway (16.51')- .15,     2" from tip- .07"
Weight- appxly 2 lb, 4.8 oz.
POB 5 1/2"
Grip Length- 6"
Tang @ Guard- .7"x.22
Guard Weight 3.1 oz
Pommel Weight 6.4 oz



Any questions or requests for more info or pics, please pm me and I'll edit this post.

Corrected, thanks

Angus Trim 1557

Overall Length- 33 3/4"
Blade Length-   27"
Blade Width @ Guard- 1.928"   Midway (13 1/2")-  1.650",   2" from tip-  .542"
Distal @ Guard- .184",             Midway (13 1/2")-  .127",     2" from tip-  .059"
Weight - 2 Lb. 3 oz
POB-  3 3/4"
Grip - 4 1/2"
Pommel Type- Hex
Tang-  .717 x .211"
Guard Weight 5.2 oz
Pommel Weight 6.9 oz

As of 9-2-2016 I would like to ask new posters to include the weight of the pommel and the guard, in short, the furniture, if possible.
I know this could be lot to ask, but it would aid those who like to strip their blades and rebuild with new furniture.
It could be of help to get the old balance back somewhat. So, if you can do it, it would be much appriciated.
Chrisperoni came with this idea and I think it is a very good one.

Thank you very much.

Findlithui: nice sword. I like that soft sheen on the guard and pommel. How is that done? 3M sanding mat?

Durable construction. Coupled with maybe a bit uneven heat treat and slightly rough and asimmetrical look, this looks like a very historically accurate package. ;)