Sword Construction Data Base

Strongblade Archer's Sword. I sold it a few years ago, so I dont have any measurements. However, to my knowledge, this is the typical Strongblade hilt construction---screw-on pommel behind a safety-nut that secures the grip.

I know there's not much demand for their products around here, but I thought it could be useful info for someone perhaps.

Hanwei Renaissance Side Sword.

As per post here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=22265
I recommend the removal of the pommel shoulders inside the grip and epoxying the old grip to have a tight fit on the tang, or making a new grip.

Tang: 160 x 22 x 5 mm. 6mm metric thread. Tang meassured from the blade, ricasso and all.
Pommel: screw type.
Blade shoulders: Ample for such a small blade.

The Windlass German Bastard. ( SECOND EDITION).

Tang length is 225 mm.
Tang thickness is 4mm going up to 8mm at the nut end.
Tang width at shoulders is 20 mm.

Nut 12 x 6.5 mm.
Nut walls around 2 mm.

Blade shoulders are good, but barely so.

For comments on the safety for this sword see my topic here: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=22638 and also have a look here: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=23097
For me this sword is an accident waiting to happen.













Cheers.

Huawei Top Quality Han Jian

Measurements

Overall Length: 42 Inches/117 CM
Blade Length: 30.5 Inches/78 CM
Handle Length: 10 Inches/26 CM
Point of Balance: 5 inches from the Guard
Thickness at Guard: 8mm
Thickness at Middle: 6mm
Thickness at Tip: 4mm
Width of blade at Guard: 3.5 cm
Width of blade at Middle: 3.2 cm
Width of blade at Tip: 2.3 cm
Weight of Blade: About 3.5 Pounds (I need a better scale to confirm this 100% but so far it feels significantly heavier than my VA Kriegscwhert)



This is the base 8 sided Han Jian Blade template that Huawei uses. Notice the rounded shoulders and the substantial tang to blade proportions. Safety and quality built into the design long before mass production.



This is my blade next to their template, notice how tight the tolerance is and how similar in shape/thickness a freshly made blade is. Jacky's crew at Huawei are really precise and this product does not deviate much from the measurements.



This is a closeup of the thick sturdy tip and how it was shaped/polished. It is optimized for use against really hard targets. This pic shows the appleseed curvature and sloped angles of the upper half and already it looks pretty substantial, the lower half is exactly the same, and altogether the thickness at the tip is about 4MM.

Tinker line measurements, some provided by the community, the rest measured by myself from a local forumites collection.
All measurements in mm.

Windlass Classic Medieval Sword
I bought this from BeastofWotan to play with a blade.



I used an x-acto knife to deeply score the wood. I inserted a common #2 screwdriver into the score line at twisted the screwdriver. The wood just cracked, it was dry and brittle.





You can see that there is a gap between the wood grip and the tang. Also, you can make out the wedges that were used to help secure the cross guard on the left side of the picture. The epoxy was used effectively and not slopped on. The pommel was nicely placed and glued.







I used the oven heat method to break down the glue.





No threaded rod on this example. But it was nicely peened.

Measurements of Note:
Thickness at the blade junction: 3/16 inch
Width at the blade shoulders 3/4 inch
Diameter of the peening rod: 1/4 inch
Overall Length of the tang from blade shoulder to end: 6 1/4 inches

DSA 14th Century fittings - The pommel is threaded 1/4 x 20 (Findlithui's data) as far as I can tell. Magnet stick to both pommel and guard. Both pommel and guard are quite nice and I am pleased with the purchase....now I have to figure out how I want to match these to an H/T fullered bastard but that will be a different thread. FYI, the guard matches up pretty well with the H/T blade in terms of fit, the slot is longer than blade is wide but the tang opening, while slightly bigger than needs to be is pretty close, some shimming will be required.

Pictures speak a thousand words.

Windlass Steelcrafts Sword of Homildon Hill

I sent this sword to Bryan Heff for a new grip. Here are his findings upon removing the original grip core. No measurements were taken, but he did get some good shots of the tang while it was exposed...a beefier tang than I was expecting. 
Tang detail (In these first two pics, shims can be seen between the guard and the tang. These were added by Bryan, and did not come from the factory build):





Here's the original grip core. Much larger around than the sword's tang, and a lot of epoxy was used to fill space:


Photos courtesy of Bryan Heff

Company and model: Hanwei Tinker Norman Sword
Pommel: Peened
Meassurements of the tang and blade shoulders: The tang is 5 inches and 3/8 long, 7/8 of an inch wide at the base, 1/2 inch wide at the tip, and 1/4 inch thick. The blade is 2 inches wide at the shoulders.
Other details: The outer black leather wrap was glued on, but it came off fairly easily with the use of a knife. The handle was wrapped in some kind of sturdy synthetic cord, which was also glued on. Plus, it had two leather risers (one near the pommel, the other near the cross guard) that were fairly hard to remove, having also been glued on. The wood handle seems to be oak, and is made of two pieces glued together. It was not epoxied to the tang, but it fit so snugly that I wasn't able to shift it with my hand. I ended up splitting it off. The fit of the cross guard is a little loose - the hole through the center is a tad bigger than it should be, so it has some side-to-side play; something you wouldn't notice unless you actually grabbed the cross guard and pushed it back and forth, or shook it hard (you'd hear a little rattle). The pommel was shimmed with some thin strips of wood.

Pictures: