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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 22, 2011 15:01:08 GMT
I would, if I had the green, 'cause I want that tanto model, and I'm liking the sound of the clipped point one.
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Post by MOK on Mar 22, 2011 18:08:20 GMT
Here's a quick try... not perfectly happy with it, and couldn't think of a secondary function to add, but the overall shape is pretty slick, no? Kinda looks like a CS Trail Master, only pointier (and way bigger).
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Lunaman
Senior Forumite
Posts: 3,974
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Post by Lunaman on Mar 22, 2011 18:11:35 GMT
That last one, MOK....that's the one. Stone cold badass.
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Post by MOK on Mar 22, 2011 18:21:51 GMT
Yeah, that's the mean one out of the bunch. Should make Crocodile Dundee proper jealous.
Personally I like all three, possibly the spearpoint most of all - such a wide profile should make for some really smooth cuts with the point section. Remember, these blades are all 2.4 inches wide and have no profile taper before the point...
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 22, 2011 20:37:45 GMT
That looks pretty good, MOK. But for once I'd like to see a clip point blade with an upswept clip; they just don't look right to me otherwise.
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Post by MOK on Mar 22, 2011 20:45:32 GMT
Do you mean just a more pronounced curve to the clip, with the tip behind the center line of the grip instead of right on it?
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Post by Vincent Dolan on Mar 22, 2011 20:53:20 GMT
Pretty much. It's just a personal quirk of mine, but probably comes from my preference for curved blades; if I ever have one made, it'll be an easy enough thing to add due to the versatility of your design.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on May 24, 2011 14:26:48 GMT
why no cup guards? they are good when bashing zombies in close quarters.
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Post by MOK on May 30, 2011 23:26:14 GMT
They're far more complicated to manufacture than plain disks, though.
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on May 31, 2011 15:19:32 GMT
Ha, you guys should see the tactical I'm currently working on. Not exactly simple but really sleek and deadly looking I think. I'll drop her off to heat treat on thursday, can wait to finish her and post some pics. (In case you're wondering Luna, it's not the leafy yet,that one is hopefully next on my list though. Just need someone to buy it as I can't justify owning two tacticals at the moment and the other one suits my Messer training better)
That clip point is looking seriously awesome too, MOK. I agree that the saberpoint would be terrifying in the cut and tip cuts would probably just shear through cloth and flesh but I like a pointier tip better and if you make a tip that gets broad quickly enough in a smooth curve like on a Mainz gladius you get a wide would channel just like on a round tip but better penetration on harder targets.
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Post by GUEST on Jun 4, 2011 20:56:40 GMT
MOK do I have your permission to try to made your Tanto style blade some time it the future. It might end up a little shorter and one handed.
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Post by MOK on Jun 4, 2011 21:18:07 GMT
Sure, go ahead! I wasn't gonna patent it or anything.
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Post by MOK on Oct 14, 2011 2:32:01 GMT
Introducing the MOK Tactical Sword MkII, now with improved graphics! 36 inches overall, with a 12-inch hilt and 24-inch blade. The blade, guard and pommel plate are all cut out of 5mm sheet metal. The blade is 60mm (2.4 inches) wide with a 25mm (1 inch) wide tang, the guard 25x75mm (1x3 inches), and the pommel 25x55mm (1x2.2 inches). The blade is ground in three stages: the shoulders are left square for 1 inch from the guard, then there's an 8-inch single-edged section with just the broad-beveled true edge, and the last 15 inches have an asymmetrical diamond cross-section with a much narrower false edge. The guard fits snugly enough on the tang that it can be attached during heat treatment: heat it, slip it onto the tang, and as it cools down the slight shrinkage fixes it in place. The grip is very tough rubber, something akin to tire treads, cast in one piece (the seam is visible in the front view, below) and tight enough it has to be forced onto the tang; it should also be slightly too long, by just a couple of millimeters, so it's compressed between the guard and pommel, further solidifying the hilt assembly. Finally the pommel is fixed on the tang just like the guard, and the end of the tang peened over it. If my calculations are correct, it should balance at somewhere between 4 to 5 inches from the guard. The idea with the asymmetrical cross-section is to provide an acute long edge for cutting soft targets like flesh, and a more obtuse short edge for heavier chopping tasks; essentially, the long edge is for fighting, the short edge for work. It also provides a nice spear-point for thrusting. The sheath is cast of the same rubber as the grip. The retention spring is just a T-shaped piece of thin sheet metal bent into shape around the sheath, the free end of which fits into a hole above the guard on either side of the grip when the sword is sheathed; the setup is kept 100% ambidextrous by the sheath being symmetrical inside so that the sword can fit in facing either way. The round holes at the corners are large enough for most types of Paracord, and the loops wide enough to accept any kind of webbing or belts up to 60mm (2.4 inches) wide, ie. large enough even for pistol belts, and since it is rubber there's a little extra bit of wiggle room even beyond that.
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Post by MOK on Oct 17, 2011 15:34:47 GMT
On further thought, I modified the blade geometry a bit, extending the hexagonal section down towards the point to make the whole just a little stiffer and the back edge up to the shoulders to keep the balance back. I also shrunk the rectangular shoulders from 1 to 0.5-inch tall, just because it looks better that way and probably makes drawing and sheathing easier - the function of the rectangular portion is to fit the mouth of the sheath snuggly and prevent the sheathed blade from moving around inside, but the more surface area it has the more friction there is when moving the blade in or out, and unlike with conventional scabbards we don't need to secure the sword with friction since the retention spring locks it in. The pictures in the above post are updated. Also, due to popular demand... It's the original tanto blade on the new hilt, except I moved the back edge closer to the point, hopefully improving balance a little and turning it into a sort of American style unokubi-zukuri.
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Post by Larry Jordan on Oct 17, 2011 16:10:55 GMT
Here's my idea of a tactical sword: 21" Wak with minimal guard, micarta handle and stylish but functional wrap. Includes kydex sheath with slots for a host of mounting possibilities. I reviewed this a while back here: Review: Dawson Millennium Wak
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Post by Larry Jordan on Oct 21, 2011 13:47:15 GMT
MOK,
I find both your designs functional and elegant. They remind me of the Hanwei Banshee with its clean lines and no nonsense exterior.
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Post by MOK on Oct 21, 2011 14:02:13 GMT
Well, that's no coincidence... my Banshee lies right there on the desk beside me as I type this.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2011 8:31:24 GMT
wow im glad i found this.
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Post by Neovenetar on Oct 23, 2011 11:32:29 GMT
Damn, I need to start up inkscape....
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Post by William Swiger on Oct 23, 2011 12:02:10 GMT
I have made a few tactical swords but that was not really the intention. Take a no-hi katana or wak and remove the ito. remove the tuska and give the tang a good coating of expoxy. Put it back on the katana. Expoxy the pegs back in. Do a cord wrap and then leather. You can blue the blade if you like and can also do a leather wrap on the saya.
If you do not have leather, you can reuse the cotton ito and just wrap and glue it on like cord. When done, use saddle soap for few coats. It makes the black ito look like leather.
Instant tactical for the buget minded :lol:
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