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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jun 3, 2011 14:11:08 GMT
Nice work Theodin, I love the wire work. I've been playing with some braided brass and silver, but have got to say that your washer and leather wrap is awesome. I had dismissed the idea of using both, thinking that the resulting grip would be too fat. I can see by looking at your pics, that is not the case at all. I can see a similar wrap on my war sword in the very near future. Excellent work !!!!!!!!!!!1
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jun 3, 2011 14:06:00 GMT
the more i look at the pics, i must say they really look better in person. I picked up a couple of button sets from JoAnn crafts, and was thinking of using them as decoration, but haven't decided on them yet either. After getting the scabbards done, it really makes the sword look like a turd, so i'll probably have to customize it now too. Something about that big old pipe for a handle is bugging me. The medallion on the dagger pommel is a set of buttons too, but i put them on before the scabbard set was done and now i don't like it. I should have used brass or bronze or something, but i'll eventually figure it out.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jun 3, 2011 13:56:52 GMT
thanks for the responses guys, i've been wanting toget this done for a while now. Altogether it took about 2 weeks for the pair, but that icludes all my fiddling around practicing with the woodburner, stains, etc. I whipped out the dagger scabbard in a day with the exception of staining and such. I was 30 miles from the shop i was using, so it made it a little difficult to work on them as much as i would have liked. Right now, the leather wrap is temporary, as i was just trying out some different leather colors. |I still have to rig up some type of suspension for it, but am not sure which direction to take. I got a hold of some silver and brass wire and will probably end up with some sort of braided wire and leather, but haven't decided for sure yet. ShadowRazor is my Fable, and i'm waiting on one more piece of ebony for it's scabbard. I'm currently making some more wooden sheaths for a bowie and a fighting knife for some more practice with the woodburner, carving, etc. The thing i was most surprised with is the fit, both blades are snug so the stay in the scabbard upside down, but pull out swiftly. The only issue is that the sword rattles a little bit in the scabbard, but for my first attempt at anything like this, i'mstoked. Saito, it was posts by you and Greg that really got me motivated to kick this thing in gear, so i guess a Thank You is in order .
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Jun 2, 2011 20:02:12 GMT
These were made as practice pieces before making a scabbard for my fable blade. I made the sword from scrap steel laying around the shop about 5 years ago, and its been kicking around since without a scabbard so it made perfect sense. I looked around my Grandfathers wood shop and found a piece of wood long enough for the sword, so i picked it up, and underneath it, there was a smaller piece of the same wood. I decided to take both, and would make one for an old dagger in need of refurbishing. After getting the wood on the planer, i realized that i had a couple of pieces of lacewood, and the grain was pretty nice. I wanted something simple, but didn't want to cover the wood with leather, so i decided to burn in the pinstriping, and hand paint the stain to try and highlight the woodgrain and get a tri color effect. I picked up a 20.00 woodburner at A.C.Moore, minwax stains and clear totalling about 35.00 altogether with brushes and misc. stuff. All in all, it was relatively easy. I used the "channel" method for the sword, and the "sandwich" method for the dagger. The sandwich method for me, was by far the fastest /easiest way to go about construction, and a planer makes quick work of getting a proper fit. I'm pretty happy with the results, but wish i had done some more scroll work with the woodburner, i was really looking for a simple design, but feel like it might be "too simple". I have to find or make some decent chapes/throats, but that's gonna have to wait a while. Tell me what you think, it was reading the boards here that gave me the kick i needed to get it done, and i'm glad i did.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on May 28, 2011 13:17:09 GMT
I know what you mean about how much to charge for them. I've been working on a sword/dagger set for a couple of weeks, and i was surprised t just how much time it can take. I will say that it's definitely faster to do the "sandwich" method. I started off with the sword scabbard, and hand chiseled the blade channel, but with the quality of my chisels, this made for a looong day. Now i can take my 3/4 inch board, rip it into 3 pieces, using one piece each for front and back and the third for spacers.I made the spacers for the scabbard thicker than i needed, so i could adjust the thickness slowly with the planer. The planer works so much better and faster for thinning out a fat scabbard. I'm just finishing up my dagger scabbard and when the set is done i'll post pics. Saito, it would be nice to see some pics of what you've done so far, post some pics up when you can.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on May 25, 2011 15:27:55 GMT
it sounds like chuck might be onto something with tthe chrome tanning issue. I'm currently working with 9oz. veg tanned to mold around my revolvers, and less than 15 min. in the water it was completely saturated. Color change upon contact with water was immediate.I've seen that brand at tandy before, and there was a reason i avoided it, but cant remember now why.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Apr 23, 2011 13:14:55 GMT
WOW!! Now that's what I'm talkin bout!! Nicely Done!! That looks Fantastic!!!!!
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Apr 13, 2011 4:17:28 GMT
bleachsword, I love to see such a helpful attitude, especially when so many other forums would brow beat such a poster for being too noobish. Taking the time to find and pst the information may well be the difference in someones willingness to finih a project or start another. Have a karma for representing EXACTLY what this forum is all about.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Apr 13, 2011 3:53:43 GMT
for me, i waited till i had a minimum of 1500.00 usd dedicated for my piece before contacting ANYONE. This gave me the ability to show good faith and to lock in my slot. I've researched enough to know that put me in the ballpark for the finished commission. I personally believe that if I'm going to take up any of a smith's time, I should be ready to at least give a deposit or i won't bother. If a person claims to be serious enough to ask for pricing, then commitment to a deposit should really be in order. Save first, ask later cause if you don't know the difference between a 500.00 or 2000.00 sword, i'd suggest collecting stamps. As for Fable Blades, prices for available pieces ARE posted, and i've seen many posts from Brenno himself directing people to his website for prices in the past. I was able to ascertain within 200.00 what my piece was going to cost by simply looking at his site. If a person was looking to have a "repeat" piece made, i would agree that an email for pricing would be fine, but a one off piece can in no way be mutually understood for pricing without "too much" of the smiths time, thought and effort to not be willing to pay.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Apr 12, 2011 14:13:42 GMT
@ Sean (shadowhowler) - I couldn't agree more, and actually deleted a rather longwinded post before posting my previous comments for the sake of the OP's original intention for this thread. For me, it can be summed up as "put up or shut up", which is an ideal seemingly lost (as with many others) in todays world. My apologies to the OP, for the continued hijacking of this thread.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Apr 12, 2011 2:19:04 GMT
My first real sword, my dream, Brenno's Dark Fable, Zhiadau Razuur. @ Elheru Aran - i mean no disrespect, but you seem to place little value on a craftsman's time. 2 minutes to you may well take as much as 20 minutes from someone's day. I was surprised by your comments to say the least. Keep in mind , you are one of hundreds that may share the same feelings and if all were to "kick the tires" it could be a serious detriment to both the smith and his clients who have paid for his time.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Apr 10, 2011 17:21:35 GMT
Brenno, as i've said before, you are certainly a man amongst men. You really do come through with some great advice, and your willingness to help through imparting your hard earned knowledge is beyond admirable. Thanks for the tip, I know i'll put it to good use for sure.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 31, 2011 18:13:12 GMT
my reasoning for the unhardened blade is this: carbide cutting tools are much cheaper than diamond My time is valuable, and softer steel will tool out and etch much faster and even if It were to cost 50.00 for the spring shop to harden, i'm still waaay ahead of just what i'd spend on diamond tools and time involved in the decorative process. When I "tested" some hardened 5160 with a nicholson bastard cut file it barely made a mark, but the same steel after being annealed was visibly cut and felt almost "buttery" in comparison. I'm no blacksmith by any means, and there is always a risk of warping/cracking when tempering a blade, but the difference in difficulty,speed and detail that can be achieved with simple tools makes it a no-brainer for me. I still run the risk of cracking during hardening, but at least the spring shop guys have experience with the process.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 31, 2011 17:40:26 GMT
given the fact that its 5160, I havent decided if i'll do it myself or take it to the local commercial spring shop for hardening. I have access to materials needed for hardening, but the length of the blade is a little intimidating for me to do. I'm waiting for a call from falls sping, but given our commercial account through my families business, I'll probably get the blade done at n/c.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 28, 2011 17:34:21 GMT
Greg, the more i read, the busier you get!! This one looks good. I love the ball pommel, it really adds an understated grace to a sword i usually do't care for. Well Done.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 28, 2011 17:21:24 GMT
I just ordered the celtic longsword, and found out that if they don't have a bare blade "in the bin", they'll run one off the mill for the same price. I ordered mine untreated so as to make etching,engraving and shaping easier. For that price they seemed pretty tough to turn down. I really had my eye on the leaf blade, but I set a budget for this project at 250.00. I'll post my thoughts after it arrives.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 28, 2011 16:44:57 GMT
Saito, looking good so far! This for me, is another one of those inspiraional threads that really has me itching to put a blade o the grinder. Have you made any progress with a guard or pommel?? got any sketches?? For all the thought i've put into how i'm gonna go about my own project, It's the guard, and the "milling" of the tang slot and blade seat , that gives me cause for most of my concerns. I'll be watching so i don't miss seeing how you tackle it. Nice Work.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 22, 2011 17:04:44 GMT
talon, if i've learned anything in a misspent life, I would like to point out that,......all dragons are odd, some just have better redeeming qualities
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 22, 2011 17:00:48 GMT
Lunaman, that looks sweet. And as a guy with TON of old and antique jewelry around, I'm wondering what is the best glue for adhering to the metal parts??
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Mar 22, 2011 16:57:19 GMT
Elheru, I like the look of the X. Did you use small pieces on the inside of the x to compress when you wrapped it?? What I mean is small triangular pieces placed over the leather to be pressed by the wrap, placed in the center to define the crisp V on the top and bottom of the X.
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