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Post by drakegmbh on Jul 22, 2022 21:36:45 GMT
I recently acquired a Pattern 1912 Cavalry Officer’s Sword to pair with my Pattern 1908 Trooper’s sword. Much to my disappointment I found there is a bit of a kink at the tip. I’m not brave enough to try cold bending it as I certainly don’t want to break it. Does anyone have advice to effect a repair on this? I have got a propane torch, electric heat gun and IR temp gun if this will require heating. I have done a good bit of silver soldering. Any advice is appreciate!   
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Post by paulmuaddib on Jul 22, 2022 22:36:36 GMT
Oh, when you said kink I thought you meant bent tip. Not sure the heat gun will work. I use one to dry joint compound (drywall mud). It would heat it up very slowly but don’t know if that would be good or not. Hopefully one of the smiths on here will chime in with a solution. Good luck.
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Post by drakegmbh on Jul 23, 2022 0:05:08 GMT
Ours will ouput 350°F on low and 450°F on high - which are into the straw range with steel. Certainly less intense than a direct flame so it takes longer to bring to temp but it is a consistent temp. Thus far the only off-label utility (ie - not shrink wrapping) I've had for the heat gun was pre-heating aluminum for a molyresin coating. That worked very well. For silver soldering I use the propane torch.
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circumstances
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All the same we take our chances.. laughed at by time..tricked by circumstances
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Post by circumstances on Jul 30, 2022 2:43:42 GMT
Ours will ouput 350°F on low and 450°F on high - which are into the straw range with steel. Certainly less intense than a direct flame so it takes longer to bring to temp but it is a consistent temp. Thus far the only off-label utility (ie - not shrink wrapping) I've had for the heat gun was pre-heating aluminum for a molyresin coating. That worked very well. For silver soldering I use the propane torch. Hmmm. I thought you just had a bent tip when I read your thread tittle as well. Those are easy. This now I dunno. If it were my blade I migt try a lower heat that will still allow the metal to move and clamp it into a vice twixt two straight blocks of wood or even a metal like aluminum that won't mar the blade and squeeze it straight nice and easy like. Heat is going to change the characteristics of the steel in the blade however. If it's only going to be a display piece and not be used that trick will be fine but if you wanna use it it would require a re tempering after straightening it I would think. That complicates matters and is over my paygrade.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 3, 2022 20:04:43 GMT
Like the others I underestimated the damage by thinking a bend at the tip. First off, I’d say NO HEAT. It is far too easy to destroy the tempering. Certainly something you don’t want to do. I can think of types of blade deformities an amateur might attempt to repair. With that one and for the type of sword, a collector’s item, I’d consult a professional. I’d also check his qualifications. Anybody and his brother can say oh sure, no problem. And then chuck it in an unpadded vice and… You don’t want that any more than losing the temper.
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Post by snubnoze on Aug 3, 2022 20:27:58 GMT
I ended up getting a bent up Swiss 1967 cavalry officer that I overpaid for. I just had a bit of a cry and took the loss. I don't think it's salvageable, at least by me. Ignored red flags so it's my own dumb fault.
To be honest it did kind of kill my desire to collect more antique sabres though, which is good/bad. My wallet is happy that I calmed down.
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Post by drakegmbh on Aug 7, 2022 15:31:26 GMT
Like the others I underestimated the damage by thinking a bend at the tip. First off, I’d say NO HEAT. It is far too easy to destroy the tempering. Certainly something you don’t want to do. I can think of types of blade deformities an amateur might attempt to repair. With that one and for the type of sword, a collector’s item, I’d consult a professional. I’d also check his qualifications. Anybody and his brother can say oh sure, no problem. And then chuck it in an unpadded vice and… You don’t want that any more than losing the temper. Finding a qualified professional appears to be easier said than done. Does anyone have any leads in the US? I will have to be pragmatic about the cost as well as these are not exactly priceless or irreplaceable.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 16:50:56 GMT
“Finding a qualified professional appears to be easier said than done.” Yeah. Sorry, I know of none. However, this forum has several smiths as members, maybe they can be of service. Search the “Manufacturers and Vendors Talk” sub board under “The Marketplace” for names and links. If no luck there I’d contact Matt Easton as he deals in antiques and has no doubt faced a similar problem. He is located in England though. Do a search on YouTube using ‘Matt Easton” or ‘scholagladiatoria’ as a start. I wish that I could be of more help as that sword deserves restoration.
Easton has a video or two on straightening blades but his examples use bends less complex than yours. Also, search YouTube using “straightening sword blades”. There are several videos there. I have not reviewed them. You may find something, but I warn you that anybody and his brother can post on YouTube. Take what you see with a grain of salt. Really, I’d exhaust my search for a professional first.
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Post by drakegmbh on Aug 7, 2022 17:27:05 GMT
“Finding a qualified professional appears to be easier said than done.” Yeah. Sorry, I know of none. However, this forum has several smiths as members, maybe they can be of service. Search the “Manufacturers and Vendors Talk” sub board under “The Marketplace” for names and links. If no luck there I’d contact Matt Easton as he deals in antiques and has no doubt faced a similar problem. He is located in England though. Do a search on YouTube using ‘Matt Easton” or ‘scholagladiatoria’ as a start. I wish that I could be of more help as that sword deserves restoration. Easton has a video or two on straightening blades but his examples use bends less complex than yours. Also, search YouTube using “straightening sword blades”. There are several videos there. I have not reviewed them. You may find something, but I warn you that anybody and his brother can post on YouTube. Take what you see with a grain of salt. Really, I’d exhaust my search for a professional first. Perhaps failing to provide any sense of scale with the initial photos made it appear more pronounced than it really is. Otherwise I am just showing how much of a novice I am in terms of blade repair.   ![]() 
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Aug 7, 2022 17:42:12 GMT
Just 2 cm, I'd try it with a flat nose pliers.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 19:29:39 GMT
That’s not as bad as I thought. And I think a pro can easily repair it. However, if you want to attempt it yourself I have the following advice:
If you use any tool similar to a vice, piers, vice grips, etc. Use it padded otherwise you will imbed everlasting marks from the teeth. Leather will work. I use to have my vice I lined with lead. I have also used wooden blocks.
If that was mine I use a metal anvil and try with a mallet. Or sandwich the tip between a metal anvil and small sheet of steel and hammer. I’ve used the latter.
It maybe necessary after getting it reasonably straight to finish the job with just a anvil and mallet. Or fine tune it with a padded vice gripe.
Whatever, go slowly and carefully studying the effects as you go as not to continue with something that is giving adverse results.
Lot of luck.
PS And then there are the YouTube videos that may give you an idea you like better.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 7, 2022 20:15:09 GMT
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Post by blackprince on Aug 15, 2022 3:22:22 GMT
A suggestion: leave it as is and appreciate the kink as part of the blade’s unique character history has imparted on it. This doesn’t look like it impacts function all that much and gives the sword personality… it is an antique after all. It makes me imagine what battles this blade has seen.
Typically, to straighten a blade, a smith will apply some heat and place the blade in a straightening jig. As thin as the tip is, this could over heat very quickly and lose its temper. As thin as the tip is, it will lose heat very quickly and won’t stay malleable for more than a second or two. Even if done right, straightening will cause additional microstructure cracks to the ones that are already there from thrusting it into something too hard. In other words, the metal can only take so much bending before it snaps. Weighing the risks, I’d leave it as it is.
If the current condition of the blade is unacceptable to you, second the opinion of finding a professional with a good reputation to fix it.
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