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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 21:16:18 GMT
Nice review, thanks! Sorry about your customer experience and thank you for posting that as a warning. Cheap XIVs are quickly becoming my favorite medieval beater. Here's my sub-$100 Windlass XIV after vinegar treatment. Great, solid, surprisingly nippy little thing. Attachments:
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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 20:59:39 GMT
Hello all, Here is another recently acquired antique sword. The first one I posted is here: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/54967/antique-scottish-basket-hilt-broadsword . This next one is a continental European single-edged straight-bladed sword, probably German based on the basket design, likely from the late 16th century to early 17th century. This is my number one favorite right now. I just love it and can’t stop messing with it. Here are its stats: Weight/mass: 2 lb 10.8 oz; 1.21 kg Total length: 43.3”; 110 cm Blade length: 38.0”; 96.5 cm Guard max length (quillons): 10.5”; 26.7 cm Basket max width: 4.38”; 11.1 cm Grip length: 3.6”; 9.4 cm Blade max width at guard: 1.14”; 2.90 cm Point of balance: 4.92”; 12.5 cm Distal taper of the blade: 0.35” or 9 mm thick just below the guard, tapering to 0.12” or 3 mm thick at 4” or 10 cm from the tip It has a fuller along most of the blade on both sides, but the fuller is very shallow and hard to make out. Overall, it’s more of a wedge section throughout, with a very thick spine narrowing quickly to a blended but still visible secondary bevel. There is a maker’s mark a few inches below the hilt: a heart above a cross, reputed to be indicative of an Italian smith. There are a couple other possible marks nearby, including a C or S shape, but it’s hard to say if these are real marks or just pits. This weapon is in excavated condition, well-cleaned and now nicely sealed but with deep pitting and other evidence of long-term corrosion in the past. It has clearly had a hard life and has been heavily used. The edge has been re-filed and honed numerous times; it displays a waviness that seems to indicate focused smoothing to take out nicks or other damage. There is one dramatic nick near the middle of the blade that is approximately 2 mm deep. At the approximate center of percussion, about two-thirds of the way down the blade, there is a pronounced bend forward (i.e., toward the edge) and a rounded and flattened spot on the edge. This damage probably derives from a full-force strike on a helmet, armored limb, or less evocatively, perhaps some genius mis-using it against a post or tree trunk. Whatever the exact situation, it is clear that the blade struck an unyielding, slightly rounded object. Despite these flaws and its rough condition, most of the edge is still dangerously sharp. The hilt consists of a guard with long quillons and two shells supporting an almost-symmetrical basket that does not quite attach to the pommel, which is a large, globular mushroom cap shape with longitudinal incised lines. All components appear to be steel. There is a thumbring for a right-handed fighter using a hammer grip. I estimate approximately 80% of the hilt is original; parts of some bars and one of the shells have been patched, most recently by E.B. Erickson. He also made a simple leather grip for it. Despite the patching and rough forging marks on the original components, the basket has extraordinarily graceful lines. My favorite parts are the extra-long straight quillons, which are unusual; more often you see these with shorter quillons or, if long, with the forward one curved up and the rear one down. The basket is slightly larger than the Scottish basket I presented earlier. Unfortunately, it’s still a tight fit for my hands! But I still get a lot of enjoyment out of handling it. With its length and weight, more than 2.5 lbs, it’s a beefy sword for one-handed use. However, like so many antique weapons, it feels much lighter than that; the pronounced distal taper (note the 9-mm thickness at the hilt!) gives it a lively feel that most accessible reproductions (i.e., below the Albion/A&A/custom level) can’t match. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for reading.
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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 16:30:37 GMT
And I should clarify, I was not asking for "how do you make a fake antique scabbard to fool people." I just meant a sheath or scabbard for transport, storage, maybe display, maybe even wear around at an event... curious how people approached the issue of making it "match" or not -- similar metal on the fittings? Age the leather and fittings to blend better? Go for a reconstruction of a period one or just do your own interpretation?
But I do see what you mean, MOK, about the uncanny valley of proximity to fakery. I am not trying to fool anyone, just fully enjoy my antiques. But what if I sold the set, and then several steps down the line the modern part was being misrepresented as an original item? It's an interesting and worrying thought.
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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 15:22:45 GMT
Good points! I reinstate the retracted thanks, MOK.
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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 14:59:34 GMT
Well, ok then. I retract my thanks.
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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 14:40:41 GMT
A few more pictures that wouldn't fit in the original post.
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Post by viece on Jul 27, 2018 14:39:16 GMT
Hello all, I thought I would post a couple recent acquisitions that have quickly become my favorite antique swords. This one is a double-edged Scottish ribbon-hilt broadsword from about 1680. Here are its stats: Weight/mass: 2 lb 4.2 oz; 1.03 kg Total length: 43.9”; 111.5 cm Blade length: 39.0”; 99.1 cm Basket max length: 4.75”; 12.1 cm Basket max width: 4.25”; 10.8 cm Grip length: 3.5”; 8.9 cm Blade max width at guard: 1.38”; 3.5 cm Point of balance: 5.75”; 14.6 cm Distal taper of the blade: 0.24” or 6 mm thick at guard to 0.08” or 2 mm thick 4” or 10 cm from the tip It is in almost excavated condition, very worn, clearly sharpened and polished many, many times over generations. Perhaps it is an earlier family blade from a big two-handed cutter, trimmed down and re-hilted in the 17th century when baskets became popular. Perhaps its rough condition is due to a century or two in a thatch roof in the Highlands; these types of swords were often hidden from the British in such a manner. Then, when the owner was imprisoned, killed, exiled, etc., the swords laid forgotten up in the thatch until the building disintegrated or the roof was replaced (a well-made thatch roof can last for centuries). There is a short, shallow fuller at the top of the blade flanked by two mini-fullers at the shoulders, then it quickly transitions to a flattened hexagonal/lenticular section. There are traces of an inscription, but I can’t make out the letters; maybe the standard ANDREA FERRARA? It doesn’t look that long, though. Any suggestions from the community are welcome! Just below the fuller on one side there is a “swoosh” that seems to be a remnant of a Solingen running wolf mark. Despite the condition, it is still quite sharp. I have to be careful when cleaning and waxing and have inadvertently drawn blood a couple times. The blade is very thin and whippy; it droops slightly when held out flat. It’s hard to tell how much thickness it may have lost during hundreds of episodes of honing and polishing during its use life. The distal taper is slightly uneven here and there but generally linear, moving from 6 mm at the hilt to 4 mm in the middle and 2 mm near the tip. This thinness means it has fearsome cutting potential; most of the blade section basically consists of two long, smooth appleseeds joined together. The thinness also means it is relatively well-balanced, despite the small hilt. It’s an interesting basket format, with a rarely-seen combination of ovals and flat ribbons. The grip is worm-holed wood reconstructed by renowned craftsman E.B. Erickson, so it is not original but looks the part and is more solid that a fully original example would be. In other words, it all looks original, but you can play with it without worrying about damaging the grip, which is not the case with most antiques! The basket is biased to the right and clearly constructed for a right-handed fighter. I have some trouble fitting my hand in the basket, but it is still a joy to wield, much more lively than you’d expect. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments. Thanks for reading.
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Post by viece on Jul 25, 2018 16:34:11 GMT
Well, hope you get it today! Fyi Matthew Jensen did a review on the Albion vs. Ronin Alexandria. IIRC, he preferred the Ronin because you could get 3 for the price of the Albion. From pics, though, I just don't like the proportions of the Ronin. Something about the pommel.
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Post by viece on Jul 25, 2018 0:45:57 GMT
Here's a vote for #1, for purely selfish reasons. I'd love to know what it's like, how it handles.
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Post by viece on Jul 25, 2018 0:43:12 GMT
Great thread, very educational, especially for those of us who are still in the early stages of antique collecting. Thank you all for discussing.
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Post by viece on Jul 25, 2018 0:23:55 GMT
Ordered an Albion Alexandria at the end of last August. Should be here tomorrow. So, about 11 months wait time for me. Congrats! That's my favorite Albion. If I can get myself to stop buying antiques I'd get one. Also love Mateusz Sulowski's version, but I imagine that's twice the price.
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Post by viece on Jul 19, 2018 16:38:34 GMT
I've been going minimalist and using soft, dry brushes lately on antique wood and leather hilt components. Old, fully dry toothbrush works great getting loose stuff off and slightly buffing surface. Then Ren Wax to protect, plus it gives that nice deep glow.
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Post by viece on Jul 18, 2018 21:53:53 GMT
Thanks, ElB39... I am absolutely open to anyone giving me a Zweihander!
Bfoo2 et al.-- there's a huge French M1816 on Matt Easton's sale page right now. About the same dimensions as the Insanity above. I hope someone from SBG buys it and does a detailed review!
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Post by viece on Jul 18, 2018 14:36:49 GMT
Bfoo2, What a great review! Lots of good information and I like the irreverent tone. I'd love to have one of these "insanities" to play with. I'm a 6'5", 250 lbs or so ex rugby player and regular swords often feel too light, almost smallswordish, when I go through drills.
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Post by viece on Jul 14, 2018 23:17:28 GMT
Only basket hilt I have I don't care for because it does restrict my wrist and is too small for mei hand, biting my knuckles. No idea where it came from, but someone else put it on a katana blade and I bought that. Overall it's okay, but not my thing. One day I'll try a proper basket, but the mortuary style speaks to me a little more. Despite the joy, it is an issue with my Scots. No wrist impingement but my hand just barely fits inside the basket. But I still love it and its German cousin with those huge quillons.
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Post by viece on Jul 14, 2018 23:14:14 GMT
Yup....A properly weighted and balanced basket hilt is a joy to hold. I'm still thinking about re-blading my old Windlass basket. Pretty nice looking basket, but the blade is crap. Christain- I heartily second your point! I spent today carefully cleaning and, if I'm honest, carefully swinging around these two rough but lovely baskets I just acquired. The top is single-edged c. 1600, possibly German. The bottom is a Scottish ribbon-hilt broadsword c. 1680. They are indeed a joy to hold. Not meaning to derail the thread, just using them as examples of the theme of this thread. I'll take photos and measurements and post my handful of interesting antiques under Renaissance and Military Swords soon. Attachments:
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Post by viece on Jul 13, 2018 11:34:32 GMT
What an interesting thread, ElB39. Thanks for starting it.
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Post by viece on Jul 12, 2018 20:42:36 GMT
Anyone had a scabbard made for a scabbard-less antique of any period? I'm considering doing it for one or two of my favorites. Just curious what people have done. Thanks for reading and posting your ideas.
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Post by viece on Jul 11, 2018 13:05:09 GMT
16th-17th century basket hilt swords.
I used to only be interested in Viking stuff and medieval arming swords and longswords because they were medieval and cool, and then later military sabers and swords because of family connections to the American Revolution, Civil War, and Federal/Native American conflicts in the American west.
Now that I started collecting for real, I have some genuine antique sabers but have given up on ever being able to afford Viking or medieval antiques (and it seems a majority of those out on the market may be fake anyway). So I've come back around to basket hilted sideswords, Walloons, etc as the just barely accessible descendants of the classic medieval arming sword. I now have a late 17th-century Scottish broadsword, a late 17th or early 18th-century Walloon broadsword, and a (possibly) late 16th-century basket hilted backsword that have pulled me into historical periods and themes I hadn't looked too closely at before.
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Post by viece on Jul 9, 2018 22:29:37 GMT
Good tip, thanks, though the 1685 brass wire grip and black guard are not to my taste. I get that the blackening is faithful to the originals, and I remember someone mentioning that even the blackening method was authentic (oil based), I just don't like the look. I prefer the earlier style with rings and pierced shells.
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