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Post by Brian of DBK on Feb 18, 2009 14:23:20 GMT
And what method do you use for those invisible seams. No overlap? And which glue do you use Brian There is overlap. Overlap is the only way to properly hide a seam. The trick is to get the edge of each side paper thin. I use eco leather weld. |
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SlayerofDarkness
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 18, 2009 15:51:29 GMT
There is a slight overlap, and each edge is made as paper thin as possible. This hides the seam, and the overlap to prevent any 'buldging', or visibility of the overlap. What you get is a seamless wrap if done correctly. Here's what he said earlier, Bren.  Just trying to help, lol. -Slayer |
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Feb 19, 2009 13:39:16 GMT
Yup, Duh
I was so enamoured with the pics.
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SlayerofDarkness
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"Always give everyone the benefit of the doubt."
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Post by SlayerofDarkness on Feb 19, 2009 18:57:55 GMT
Same here. I nearly missed it, the pictures were so stunning. When I get my Fableblade collection all filled up to the brim, then I'm going to get scabbards made for them by Brian. He's awesome with leather, lol.
-Slayer
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Feb 21, 2009 11:43:52 GMT
Same here. I nearly missed it, the pictures were so stunning. When I get my Fableblade collection all filled up to the brim, then I'm going to get scabbards made for them by Brian. He's awesome with leather, lol. -Slayer I think that would be awesome. I have been super impressed with Brian's recent art. It just keeps getting better. |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2009 21:26:21 GMT
And what method do you use for those invisible seams. No overlap? And which glue do you use Brian There is overlap. Overlap is the only way to properly hide a seam. The trick is to get the edge of each side paper thin. I use eco leather weld. Can someone please tell me how to get each edge paper thin on the leather? |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 28, 2009 20:38:37 GMT
Can anybody please tell me how to get the leather paper thin on the edges?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2009 15:51:13 GMT
Recessmonkey, it's called skiving. I think there is a special tool for it. I would ask Brian, or go visit Tandy, or type Skiving into Google.
I've used a belt sander to thin leather a couple of times now, it's messy and slightly dangerous.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 4, 2009 15:58:52 GMT
I bought a rapier from Shadowhowler a couple of weeks ago. It is well built in general, but the handle is plastic, and the wire-wrap could have been done better.  The first thing was to make a new core. Here it is ready to go.  Next, I twisted 4 strands of 26 guage steel wire, 2 clockwise, 2 counter-clockwise, alternating them with a single strand of copper.  The ends fold under the pommel, but still don't look quite neat enough. I guess that's why turks-head knots are so popular. I stole these two from the original grip.   |
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Post by alvin on Apr 4, 2009 16:10:38 GMT
Beautiful work Maz !! Looks much better than the original and much more durable. A very nice rapier too. Congratulations. + 1 2 U.
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Post by shadowhowler on Apr 4, 2009 16:56:08 GMT
Very nicely done! I was currious what this was going to look like when you said you were going to make a wood core for it... it looks GREAT!
Can't wait to see what you do with the scabbard...
;D
+1
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 2:57:35 GMT
Wow Maz, that really turned out nicely. Great job +1 promised  |
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Insane
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Post by Insane on Apr 5, 2009 16:04:07 GMT
I made a stuka for a ryumon blade i bought second hand. The wood is white ash finished with monocoat pure (woodenfloor wax).   |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 18:54:56 GMT
Nice tsuka. What material will you use for the ito?
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 21:15:15 GMT
I bought this atrim and thought the grip and pommel was to plain  So I rewrapped the handle with leather lace and added a conch from tandy to the pommel  |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2009 21:22:10 GMT
The bottom one is a deltin clonarf viking sword I bought and it had a beat up gold wire wrap on it,kind of stuck me when I held it. I did a simple rewrap with brown leather strips I cut from a sheet I had.I made the scabbard to,not a pro job but it works and much better than it was.  |
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Insane
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I'm not mental... Just Insane
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Post by Insane on Apr 6, 2009 5:49:39 GMT
Nice tsuka. What material will you use for the ito? No ito, i'll keep it like this. The grip is very good. I will make a saya of white ash also. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 8, 2009 6:16:25 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2009 3:41:15 GMT
Can anybody please tell me how to get the leather paper thin on the edges? skiving thick leather with a head knife, for thin leather you could get away with a roundish scalpel blade and steady hands. Heya Reflinger how do you find that windlass 5 lobed viking, been interested in getting it seen as its on the closeouts ....... is it solid  think it would make a good live blade Love what you've done on the grip .... magic |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2009 16:29:24 GMT
Can anybody please tell me how to get the leather paper thin on the edges? skiving thick leather with a head knife, for thin leather you could get away with a roundish scalpel blade and steady hands. Heya Reflinger how do you find that windlass 5 lobed viking, been interested in getting it seen as its on the closeouts ....... is it solid think it would make a good live blade Love what you've done on the grip .... magic Thank you man, I think I'm improving with each wrap, those were only my second and third attempt...Re-wrapping and blueing entry-level swords like windlasses is addictive! Yes the 5-lobes is not a bad entry level viking type sword actually...I'd go for it again at the closeout price it is at Museum Replicas...of course the pommel is in one piece, the handle a bit long (if you have big hands it should be o.k.) for a viking sword but nothing against the blade: fairly stiff kind of type X...it's a good entry-level viking sword, yes I would recommend it, I haven't cut with it yet but it handles pretty well imo...It looks very solid, fittings are tight...If by "live blade" you mean for sparring: no, never, the edges are pretty thin (maybe less than the classic 1mm) and it's kind of pointy but for cutting I'm sure it will perform well for it's type...There's a mini review of it in the forum at MyArmoury, check it out! (http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=14442&highlight=windlass+5lobe) |
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Just trying to help, lol.
think it would make a good live blade 
