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Post by Deleted on Aug 26, 2010 21:16:57 GMT
My first rewrap western style leather on my freshly made tsuka.
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Post by gijeff on Dec 19, 2015 21:31:52 GMT
Heya Peeps, Bought this sword in spite of it's reviews and noted deficiencies and came up with a pretty spiffy grip mod if I do say so myself. First off had to take off all the typical burrs cold steel is known for, but then it was time to address the grip. I did file a bit on it to get rid of a few hot spots but then I remembered a review where someone said if you wore gloves it was perfect. I tried that and it was pretty good, so I decided to try to wrap the handle instead of the hand. Here I was tossing items aside and digging around in a box that I store tape and other nicknacks in and what do I keep having to move out of my way but an old section of bike inner tube. I don't tend to throw things away if they still have use and anyone familiar with the ranger band concept knows you have the makings of them with any old inner tube that won't hold air. Anyway this tube happens to be about an inch and a half across, pretty close in size to the grip of the machete.....lightbulb! Wonder if I..... Well folks the answer is yes, it stretches over the grip of the machete turning it from akin to gripping a dull chainsaw blade to something approaching comfortable. I basically put the tube on by twisting it and "indian sunburning" it on there, then cut it to fit the grip so it left the bottom ridge exposed as well as the lanyard hole. I am posting a picture, assuming that works properly. Anyone that tries this please let me know what you think of how it works. I find it really grippy without all the discomfort the naked grip causes. Not only does it work great, but it almost looks like a leather wrapped hilt, totally cool imho. ![]() GIJeff |
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Post by Jordan Williams on Dec 30, 2015 4:09:19 GMT
Last summer I bought an IOD 1889 (I think  ) and the wood core handle had almost rotted off, so I took the pommel and guard off, polished them up a bit (they used to be almost completely black) and put a completely leather grip on it.  A grip of thick and stiff leather rings, feels great, doesn't move. |
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Dec 30, 2015 7:08:10 GMT
Here's a re-wrap I did a long time ago:
This is a sword I've cut with a lot. Huawei, back from when they were less than a year old on ebay (2009). Chinese-style wrap, with leather. Halfway through, my feeling was that I'll never use leather thong this thin to do this kind a wrap again. Twice it broke, and I just tied a knot to avoid having to start from the beginning. Took a long time, and I worked fast rather than accurately rather than having take a ridiculously long time. It has held up to a lot of use, and is very comfortable, so maybe I'd try it again. But I think I'd use a wider thong/cord, and only go to something as thin as this after comparing.
This is the whole sword:
The tsuba is home-made, mild steel (AFAIK), made from a huge washer.
This is the grip as originally received:
Was OK, but it didn't survive extensive cutting without coming loose. A re-wrap was necessary.
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Post by pellius on Apr 8, 2016 14:24:45 GMT
Greetings to the community.
I have wanted a practical non-sport (e.g., competition fencing foil, epee, etc) sword for years. I recently received my first "real" sword (a cavalry/officer style Qing Dao), and I love it. I hope it is the first of a collection, but first things first.
While lurking through this forum, I have beheld numerous impressive examples of sword craftsmanship and a ton of information.
My sword has a decent but plain hardwood handle. There is nothing wrong with it, but I really like some of the cord-wrapped examples seen on the forum. When I was directed to Peter Dekker's how-to PDF, I had to try it.
While cotton or silk flat-braided cord is widely recommended, I went with paracord because it was already on hand.
My first attempt didn't go well. The paracord was round in cross section, and was impossible to get tight enough to bind at all. Saying that it was loose would be so kind as to be inaccurate. A couple of members pointed out that removing the core would leave a flat braided cord. Good point. So, I de-cored my paracord and did a second wrap.
My second attempt turned out better than the first, but still was far from useable. I could get the wrap tighter than the first attempt, but still not tight enough not to slip a little. I would blame it on the slippery feel of the nylon cord, but Jayhawk reported great results on his dadao using de-cored paracord. Also, the weave pattern wandered substantially. Peter Dekker's tutorial recommended tape to hold things in place, but tape lifts the finish right off my grip. I used rubber bands instead. They kept things generally in the right place, but permitted enough squirm that I ended up struggling a lot to tighten each weave without distorting everything.
Toward the end, it was obvious that this attempt was not going to be sufficient to rely on. The initial loops were too short, and the weave wandered a lot. At the end, I straightened the weaves some by manipulating them with a tool. Obviously, being able to do that meant it wasn't tight at all. I knew I would need a new wrap, so I didn't finish and cut the cord. Soon, I'll try again with the same cord. Eventually, I'll pick up a wider flat-braided natural fiber cord.
Despite the challenges, this has been a rewarding endeavor. I thank the community for your support. Below are a few pics.
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Post by pellius on Apr 11, 2016 15:03:28 GMT
Below are a few pics of my third attempt to wrap my dao with de-cored paracord.
For this attempt, I began by fitting a relatively tight rubber tube over the wood handle (not exactly samegawa, I know; I used an inside-out bicycle inner tube). I did this because I had trouble on the last attempt in getting the paracord wrap tight enough to reliably bind to the hardwood handle.
I did the same weave as before. Having done a couple of practice attempts really helped with keeping things tight - I had a better idea of layout, where/what/when to hold, when to adjust the weave, when to pull tight, how to gauge the progression, noticing squirm early enough to correct it, etc. The rubber base really gripped everything tight.
As far as the weave itself turned out, I was reasonably satisfied. It came out tight, secure and reasonably symmetrical. Unfortunately, the humble nature of the rubber base was very visible in the final product. I probably could've lived with that for a while (until I could do a re-wrap with better materials), since it was intended to be functional first and pretty second.
More unfortunately, the final product was too large for me to grip reliably. Thus, leather (of the quality I can afford) would likely be no more useful to me than rubber.
Also, the paracord I was using was just plain slippery, and not really suited to inspiring the confidence needed for a smart cut.
I didn't cut the cord to finish because I knew I would be unwrapping it. I also didn't trim the rubber. My next attempt, if there is one, will be done with traditional materials.
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Post by Svadilfari on Apr 12, 2016 12:22:28 GMT
You mentioned Peter Dekker's PDF on this style of wrap. Could you post a link to that please ? :)
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Post by pellius on Apr 12, 2016 14:17:28 GMT
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Post by themagicalmark on May 7, 2016 1:53:06 GMT
Heres my two Hanwei Bastard swords i re-wrapped, it was a lot harder for the second one for some reason.
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Post by nddave on May 10, 2016 5:55:18 GMT
Heres my two Hanwei Bastard swords i re-wrapped, it was a lot harder for the second one for some reason. By second one do you mean the one on the right that has the custom hilt? Funny because it should be easier as it has only one riser, lol. Way she goes sometimes.... Did you disassemble them and wrap the handles or did you wrap them blade and hilt intact? |
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Post by themagicalmark on May 10, 2016 14:32:43 GMT
Heres my two Hanwei Bastard swords i re-wrapped, it was a lot harder for the second one for some reason. By second one do you mean the one on the right that has the custom hilt? Funny because it should be easier as it has only one riser, lol. Way she goes sometimes.... Did you disassemble them and wrap the handles or did you wrap them blade and hilt intact? Yep. I found it weird too, i was using different leather so that might have factored into it. I wrapped the handles on both separate from the rest of the hilt components. |
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Post by nddave on May 10, 2016 19:30:37 GMT
By second one do you mean the one on the right that has the custom hilt? Funny because it should be easier as it has only one riser, lol. Way she goes sometimes.... Did you disassemble them and wrap the handles or did you wrap them blade and hilt intact? Yep. I found it weird too, i was using different leather so that might have factored into it. I wrapped the handles on both separate from the rest of the hilt components. Well actually after looking at your pic close up it appears that the right one's grip has a center ridge. That would increase the difficulty since you'd need to form the leather around the ridge and keep it from shifting during cure time. That's were your extra difficulty came from. |
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Post by pellius on Jun 27, 2016 15:44:07 GMT
Here's a quick post regarding my fourth (!), and likely final, attempt at a traditional Chinese grip wrap of my humble but well-loved Qing willow leaf dao.
My previous attempts were with de-cored paracord, which I could never get tight enough to form a reliable grip. This time I went with a black leather cord. Incidentally, I got the cord at Hobby Lobby for around $15. It is glossy on one side and "natural" on the other. It is very tough, and never broke despite my sincere attempts to pull it really tight as I did my wrap. It was also plenty long enough. In hindsight, I should've gone with brown or some other color.
Anyway, my final product was not particularly tight. Nonetheless, the leather is grippy enough to offer a solid secure grip.
Doing the actual weave is tedious but pretty straight-forward. Doing the weave in a way that produces a uniform product that is pleasing to the eye and hand...let's just say I would need a lot of practice. Here's a pic. Thanks for looking.
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Post by armsandarmor on Jul 20, 2016 3:35:12 GMT
Awesome work i just ordered a cold steel la fontaine war sword i want to regrip this thread will deffinately point me in the right direction
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Post by tony on Jun 28, 2017 10:17:26 GMT
Help me identify this sword and anything else you know about it please
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AndiTheBarvarian
Member
"Lord of the Memes"
Bavarianbarbarian - Semper Semprini
Posts: 10,326
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jun 28, 2017 11:44:59 GMT
Hello Tony,
I'm sorry I can't help you with this dagger.
I think here in the forum are some guys who can, but they might not see your post in this thread about grips/wraps.
You better post your pictures again in your help request thread or in a new thread.
And welcome to the forum!
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Post by RaylonTheDemented on Nov 10, 2017 22:34:55 GMT
Regarding a tsuka re-wrap, considering I only have samegawa panels on the tsuka, would it make sense to 'upgrade' and add new samegawa panels on the bare wood sections to add grip for the new ito wrap?
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Post by treeslicer on Nov 11, 2017 0:37:12 GMT
Regarding a tsuka re-wrap, considering I only have samegawa panels on the tsuka, would it make sense to ' upgrade' and add new samegawa panels on the bare wood sections to add grip for the new ito wrap? No, but what you can do is finger plane the tsuka core down to the level of the panel inlets, and add a full, lacquered-on wrap-and-a-half. Otherwise, you'll have a fatter tsuka than you started with. Take a look here for good photos and directions. |
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Post by RaylonTheDemented on Nov 11, 2017 1:25:14 GMT
I see what you mean, quite educative, thank you sir.
o7
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) and the wood core handle had almost rotted off, so I took the pommel and guard off, polished them up a bit (they used to be almost completely black) and put a completely leather grip on it. 
Nov 1, 2024 0:13:58 GMT
Nov 1, 2024 0:13:58 GMT
