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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 25, 2011 3:01:55 GMT
Well, it looks good. But the point of balance, though rather nice to one's wrist, seems not very authentic and does not help in thrusting etc.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 4, 2011 6:43:57 GMT
Yes, a nice little booklet for non-academics. It is not always 100% correct, lacks reliable sources and quotes, but a good starting point for MA enthusiasts. But if you're into such stuff, you need to learn classical Chinese anyway, in order to do some real research. But in general, such books, also when written by Chinese laymen, with 100s of wonderful pics, tend to be not reliable in many aspects. So ...
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on May 16, 2011 5:28:28 GMT
Thanks, Vincent, would love to give some karma, but can't find any botton for you!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on May 15, 2011 8:58:06 GMT
Well, that would be a personal preference, wouldn't it?
What bothers me personally more is the narrow blade, as we use willow leaf sabres, song sabres or ghost head sabres (with upwards cutting edge at the point) here, which all have much wider blades.
Any thoughts on that?
And thanks for your reply! Gtrets from hot Taiwan
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on May 15, 2011 5:50:58 GMT
Could anybody say something on the guard of that so-called yang sabre?
My Chinese teachers here in Taiwan find it highly suspicious and think it is a modern thing, learned from western influences, traditionally no such thing before 1900?!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Apr 6, 2011 5:30:04 GMT
Thanks a lot! Will try steel wool!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Apr 4, 2011 13:07:38 GMT
Oh yeah, my fault, only looking at the pics. Thanks guys!
But what to do? Is there any source on reparing damadged swords by laymen?
What to do if blades are corroding or developing little spots getting deeper into the metal?
Living in very humid climate makes keeping blades clean very ardenous! Any help or advice would be great!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Apr 4, 2011 2:53:08 GMT
On the report of the Jinshi Han Jian, after the cutting vid, there is a pic showing the blade "badly damadged". How could this happen, if thorough hardend? How to repair such damadge? Am I seeing wrong?
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Feb 3, 2011 1:11:43 GMT
It's the year of the rabbit/hair Tu 兔, phase metal Jin 金, heavenly stem/earth branch Xinmao 辛卯. Gongxi facai!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jan 25, 2011 3:25:02 GMT
Here in Taiwan, we just enjoy an exhibition on Qing dynasty's Golden Age, with armour, sword and sabre. Pics, just start from there. qing.ishow.gmg.tw/exhibits_intro ... 01_02.html And an early happy Chinese New Year of the Rabitt Tu 兔, phase metal Jin 金, heavenly stem/earth branch Xinmao 辛卯 from Taiwan.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 23, 2010 0:17:13 GMT
www.black-dragon-swords.de/schwert.htmSorry, the link is to a German site, but one can see the palstic swords, close to the outer shape of a metal blade. But haven't used them personally, only wielded in my hand, a bit on the heavy side, but still ok. And that's the point: The more the training weapon and the real blade differ in weight, pob, thickness etc., the more does ist hamper abilities with real swords. It is an unsolvable problem. In Zhuangzi, we read that hundreds of swords men injured each other with cuts and worse during training under a noble sponsor. That is out of the question for us nowadays, nobody goes live with real blades, or do you? So, I personally have 3 kinds of swords in my arsenal: There is a steal blunt, covered in chrome, totally easy to handle, no cleaning ever needed, which I use for soloform training and very soft 2-men-stes (fixed choreography), for some 25 years allready. I have 2 high end carbon swords (also 3 sabres of different style), I use for cutting sessions, which are quite seldomly done, even bamboo, dry and green, is abundant near my house. But the swords take time to clean, rub warm and oil, before going back into the sheath. On a normal workday, I feel happy if I can train an hr or two in the morning or evening, no time to clean another hr. And the blades are so sharp that I rather be concentrated 100%. Lately, I saw someone cutting his calf, being too casual. So, always be fit and alert, working with such real blades. And remember, a sword is not a sabre, no haking or too strong cutting. Thirdly, I use wooden stuff for application training. We have redwood wasters, which waste very quickly, so we changed to one bamboo shinai against one redwood weapon. Lots of fun and bruises, but as shapes, weights and pob are very different, we are aware of the realtive strong divergence to application with real blades. I know, many people say you only can train with one sword, all training. But my daily training reality is just different!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 22, 2010 6:07:06 GMT
Even as a practitioner in a ZMQ group down here in southern Taiwan, I still prefer the traditional 54 Yang sword as transmitted by Chen Weiming. Sword fighting is not only sticky sword as Van Sickle suggests, that is a basic method, sure, but there is also distance fighting. Too much got lost in ZMQ's "rounded" form. You need to get the "square" parts, too, and find applications of the moves. S. Rodell does a great job, but as I said on the old forum, his sword testing is not every fighter's need. I believe, if you can rely on a blade (tested), you can go easier, especially the hard hitting is not in my training, medium bamboo, green and dry, are good enough to see my technique.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 22, 2010 5:52:12 GMT
Where are the rattlers?
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