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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 18, 2020 9:14:06 GMT
The straight sword is a bat sword? Bianfujian? Both blades, I also have in my collection, both sturdy, nice cutters, real cold weaponry..
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 17, 2018 0:22:10 GMT
I have one of those 1 1/2 hander and also the smaller version, both nice for sure, really good cutters, after I sharpened them, holding the edge nicely.
But the size of the big one does not really messure up to one of those huge Bagua Sabres. If you want such a beast, in high quality, you probably need to go custom made.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Feb 17, 2018 1:47:06 GMT
Happy Chinese New Year of the Earth Dog!
So calm here, what is going on?
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 9, 2017 1:30:21 GMT
Very interested in your work. The fittings (disk guard) on your linked site might be too small for a long 2-handed Dao, no? And isn't there any other way to get such a guard done than to use such a sawblade? I still go a 2-handed sabre and sword blade each, but as I got some really nice finished blades, I never bothered and took time to finish those blades. What I though was using a nice piece of steel of my choice and try to work the guard out with a laser (I have some connections). Is that possible at all?
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on May 25, 2017 12:40:21 GMT
According my knowledge, an s-shaped guard on some Taiji Dao is a western influence of not even 100 yrs. and surely doesn't fit a Miaodao, disc guard is a must. My 2 Cts.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Feb 27, 2017 7:06:13 GMT
A 1/30" belt sander. With the proper belts, these can be a good way to put a nicely convexed edge on a sword. But... it takes practice and a steady hand. Not a good idea to start out with expensive or nice blades. One can also use a file, diamond stones, and a progression of sandpaper of various grits to achieve a very similar edge. The search function will turn up a number of good threads on here about sharpening.
Thanks!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Feb 27, 2017 0:47:30 GMT
OT: What is 1x30? And how you guys do sharpen your blades?
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 29, 2016 2:40:31 GMT
As a long time CMA practicioner, I don't by internal/external any more, since many yrs. I do internal and external stuff, after different beginner approach all ending at the same! -- I use different swords for different porpuses: 1,1kg spring stell waster for casual forms training and partner set, no need to clean at all. Cheap wooden swords for application training, high end swords (Sanmei, Twist core, Damascus)for cutting. I only do green and slightly brown bamboo, with 12 - 17 cm diameter, but only when I have enough time on hand and when I'm really fit (never play with a sharp blade, when tired, I saw ppl hurting themselfs really badly). Because it takes a lot of time to take of the sap, clean, resharpen, oiling and polishing hot, before returning into the scabbard. So when I go cutting, I take a sword and a dao, maybe also a 2-hander, and palying and cleaning takes half a day.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 28, 2016 12:52:34 GMT
If I spend a few hundred or even over 1000 $, I want historical acuracy, a very durable and sharpened blade, which can hold an edge when cutting. Acid treated blades might look nice, but that doesn't say anything of their quality.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Apr 23, 2016 1:24:59 GMT
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Nov 2, 2015 6:06:19 GMT
Ah, therefor mine is tip heavy and a good thruster as well!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Nov 2, 2015 2:45:41 GMT
I have the Huanuo version of the Cold Steel Gim Sword, it's called "carp sword". Good cutter, authentic fittings (I like them a lot), a bit top heavy (?), so is there a real difference between the 2 versions?
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Oct 16, 2015 2:09:05 GMT
OT: Why do you guys prefer diamond blades? Didn't some experts (Jin Swords?) show that apple seed blades do work much better in contact with another blade? And those should also be closer to antiques, no?
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jul 21, 2015 6:33:28 GMT
In any way, drop the Wushu foil, that does give you the wrong muscle memory.
A real blade, sharp or dull, should be at least 650g, can go to 800,900g and for training forms a bit heavier (around 1 kg) is also ok. Handling different PoB can be of use, if not having training much weaponry before. To be kind to your wrist, the balance can be close to the guard; to be realstic, that point is 10-15cm in front of the guard.
After watching a careless person loose half his lower leg by using a sharp live blade without proper concentration, I tend to do my forms training with a heavier, blunt waster. Partner work, we do with wooden swords (very good from Raven). And the real stuff, I use for test cutting only, where proper or wrong teachnique quickly shows, on fresh bamboo (intensive cleaning necessary) or tatami/newspaper roles.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jul 7, 2015 0:41:36 GMT
My friend did sharpen his Adam Hsu sword for light cutting, the tang in the hilt did get lose and never could be tightend hard enough. Major reconstruction with lots of problems with the plastic inside, and he still does regret wasting his money.
According Scott (if I do remember him correctly), there were very few light 600g+ swords. I personally don't believe their functionality anyway, neither for cutting, nor for form work, nor for application (we use wood here, as metal is just too dangerous). If trained properly, you should handle a 900g sword well and quick enough.
Not a fan of the A. H. stuff!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 18, 2015 8:10:37 GMT
I do buy directly in Longquan thru my teacher. His stuff is the real deal, has its price, but in Longquan there are so many forges/assemblers, you also can get very cheap wall hangers.
Don't know about KoA, sorry!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 18, 2015 8:06:41 GMT
Why not wait a bit, safe some more money and get a real sword? If you stick to sword work, sooner or later you will get a real blade, and then you have a wall hanger with no use. If would opt the Scott Rodell cutting sword.
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 14, 2015 7:39:39 GMT
Strange descriptions using Japanese terms when the swords in question look like/are Chinese jian swords! True that, and then they talk of German steel, forged in China. Never wanted to buy with them, too suspect!
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 12, 2015 12:39:51 GMT
Different steels and HRC hardness. Would go for the second link, sharp and 60° compared to 55° (if you ever think of cutting stuff!)
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Post by Taiwandeutscher on Jun 3, 2015 9:04:10 GMT
Wrapping looks good.
But sorry to say: what an ugly guard! Far off from any historical dadao!
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