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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 23, 2023 7:29:02 GMT
30 years of my swordsmanship experience brings fruition to this design.
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pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,892
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Post by pattyb0009 on Aug 23, 2023 16:07:51 GMT
30 years of my swordsmanship experience brings fruition to this design. Where can I buy one of these??
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 24, 2023 5:31:21 GMT
I'll soon setup place where you can buy it. :) I'm still waiting for the ultra and the compact to test with. hehhe
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pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,892
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Post by pattyb0009 on Aug 24, 2023 16:54:22 GMT
Perfect! I need a classic!
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 24, 2023 17:50:36 GMT
Perfect! I need a classic! Please send an email to lancelotsword1@gmail.com so I can give you a pricing.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 25, 2023 1:10:36 GMT
I wish you success with your upcoming new line of swords. I find the one shown interesting. You have put much thought into the planning. The ss appendixes should help with rust problems. I like the scabbard from the standpoint of protecting the edge. I’m glad that you haven’t planned for a high HRC. Actually, it’s at about my favourite which is just above 50, at about 52-53. Your video shows what I’ve assumed was happening, but could never prove it, that is a micro-roll in the edge. Assuming this was happening, but never could prove such, after each use I would use a chakmak. I don’t have any scientific data, but it seemed like I was going longer between true sharpening sessions.
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 25, 2023 5:17:04 GMT
Thanks for your kind words and watching the video in detail!
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 25, 2023 13:39:44 GMT
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Post by mrstabby on Aug 25, 2023 15:34:16 GMT
I wish you success with your upcoming new line of swords. I find the one shown interesting. You have put much thought into the planning. The ss appendixes should help with rust problems. I like the scabbard from the standpoint of protecting the edge. I’m glad that you haven’t planned for a high HRC. Actually, it’s at about my favourite which is just above 50, at about 52-53. Your video shows what I’ve assumed was happening, but could never prove it, that is a micro-roll in the edge. Assuming this was happening, but never could prove such, after each use I would use a chakmak. I don’t have any scientific data, but it seemed like I was going longer between true sharpening sessions. The chakmak is just very hard steel, right? It's not necessarily only repairing a roll, but with a very hard steel on a softer steel blade you can actually push the blade steel to a new apex in addition to removing or rearranging an existing burr. Should the chakmak be the same hardness as the blade however, you will "only" be able to unroll the edge.
I have a set of wood scapers which you shapen by only pulling a very hard steel rod (like 60-65HRC) over the edge, I fingd this process fascinating.
@lancelot: How wide is the blade of the supreme cutter? Do you plan on offering a wider blade as well?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 25, 2023 17:34:03 GMT
I do not understand “I fingd this process fascinating.” as I cannot find fingd in the dictionary. The chakmak or whatever steel is being used needs to be harder than the edge it’s contacting. I pointed this out to KHHI who was advertising the same hardness to it and their kukris and they then upped their claimed chakmak hardness slightly. They claim, and I believe, their kukri hardness at 55-57, a bit harder than I prefer. I’ve been mostly using one by Windlass, of unknown hardness, as it’s lying next to my desk. It must be hard though as it shows no signs of use. I don’t think a chakmak makes a “new apex” but realigns the edge much like a butchers rod will. Regardless of what the physical process, it does to the edge I find it works. Not only does it appear to cause the blades to go longer between sharpening, but I have had on several occasions a blade after use not to cut newspaper as well as before the use but would be back to form after using a chakmak.
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Post by mrstabby on Aug 25, 2023 17:40:01 GMT
I do not understand “I fingd this process fascinating.” as I cannot find fingd in the dictionary. The chakmak or whatever steel is being used needs to be harder than the edge it’s contacting. I pointed this out to KHHI who was advertising the same hardness to it and their kukris and they then upped their claimed chakmak hardness slightly. They claim, and I believe, their kukri hardness at 55-57, a bit harder than I prefer. I’ve been mostly using one by Windlass, of unknown hardness, as it’s lying next to my desk. It must be hard though as it shows no signs of use. I don’t think a chakmak makes a “new apex” but realigns the edge much like a butchers rod will. Regardless of what the physical process, it does to the edge I find it works. Not only does it appear to cause the blades to go longer between sharpening, but I have had on several occasions a blade after use not to cut newspaper as well as before the use but would be back to form after using a chakmak. You pull out a very sharp edge just by drawing the harder steel over it. It does not remove material at all unlike normal sharpening steels. The sharpener is called a burnisher in english. The card scrapers are made from spring steel in the 50HRC range.
Also don't be mean. It's hard to type on a remote.
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Post by cptnvimes on Aug 25, 2023 18:35:39 GMT
That was quite an interesting video, but it never answered the question: what exactly did you do to achieve the cutting performance? Special edge geometry? Material used? I'm intrigued about the process but no answers were given... what did other blades do wrong and how did you fix those issues? So many questions... but maybe that's a trade secret. In any case the swords look very interesting. How long is the blade of the other versions going to be?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Aug 25, 2023 19:59:17 GMT
You pull out a very sharp edge just by drawing the harder steel over it. It does not remove material at all unlike normal sharpening steels. The sharpener is called a burnisher in english. The card scrapers are made from spring steel in the 50HRC range.
Also don't be mean. It's hard to type on a remote.
Exactly, that’s why I use a chakmak. I would by far rather realign the metal than to remove it, shortening the life of the blade. The chakmak is not sharp, far from it. And on the one I use the most I’ve round the 90° corners to better handle a recurved blade. No offense intended. I make more than my share of mistakes on a standard keyboard that my spell check fails to pick up. Usually by typeing the wrong word.
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Post by mrstabby on Aug 25, 2023 20:21:31 GMT
You pull out a very sharp edge just by drawing the harder steel over it. It does not remove material at all unlike normal sharpening steels. The sharpener is called a burnisher in english. The card scrapers are made from spring steel in the 50HRC range.
Also don't be mean. It's hard to type on a remote.
Exactly, that’s why I use a chakmak. I would by far rather realign the metal than to remove it, shortening the life of the blade. The chakmak is not sharp, far from it. And on the one I use the most I’ve round the 90° corners to better handle a recurved blade. No offense intended. I make more than my share of mistakes on a standard keyboard that my spell check fails to pick up. Usually by typeing the wrong word. Now I wonder what would happen if I used a burnisher on a sword..... I have enough swords, so maybe I try. cptnvimes said:That was quite an interesting video, but it never answered the question: what exactly did you do to achieve the cutting performance? Special edge geometry? Material used? I'm intrigued about the process but no answers were given... what did other blades do wrong and how did you fix those issues? So many questions... but maybe that's a trade secret. In any case the swords look very interesting. How long is the blade of the other versions going to be?
I think he said it's no special steel and the homepage says its 60Si2MnA, which is the same steel LK Chen uses and its a spring steel some compare to 5160, others to 9260. Nothing too special, but very good. I think it's the stiffness of the blade he alludes to, since a stiffer blade produces less wavy cuts because it won't oscillate as much when it hits resistance. Also looks to have no real secondary bevel, which reduces drag, a low PoB, long blade and long grip which makes for excellent control and tip speed (some of which he says in the video).
There probably aren't any real secrets with swords that havent been known for centuries, it's more about if the maker will put enough time and effort into it to produce something good. You can throw together something sword-looking in a few hours, but designing the details and machinery to make the details is the big difference.
I am interested how wide and thick the blade is, I never can tell from videos or photos.
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 26, 2023 5:02:25 GMT
That was quite an interesting video, but it never answered the question: what exactly did you do to achieve the cutting performance? Special edge geometry? Material used? I'm intrigued about the process but no answers were given... what did other blades do wrong and how did you fix those issues? So many questions... but maybe that's a trade secret. In any case the swords look very interesting. How long is the blade of the other versions going to be? I can't give the answers away, I'm sorry. :) Thank you for your understanding. I know many people in mainland china aiming to copy my designs from the day I figured out the answer not too long while ago. In fact, some did already. The compact is going to be 103.5cm long with 75.5cm blade, like a katana length. The ultra is going to be 132.8cm long with 100cm blade.
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 28, 2023 15:37:38 GMT
Supreme cutter classic taking on the challenge of doing 7 difficult cuts.
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Post by cptnvimes on Aug 28, 2023 15:42:35 GMT
No worries... I thought that it was a trade secret. But in that case, one only gets the true potential of the blade if one opts for the Lancelot sharpening option which I assume is where the fine tuning of the edge geometry happens right? In any case what would be really awesome would be a custom hilt version of the ultra blade: Ultra blade with a swiss sabre complex hilt.
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 28, 2023 16:21:19 GMT
No worries... I thought that it was a trade secret. But in that case, one only gets the true potential of the blade if one opts for the Lancelot sharpening option which I assume is where the fine tuning of the edge geometry happens right? In any case what would be really awesome would be a custom hilt version of the ultra blade: Ultra blade with a swiss sabre complex hilt. Hahhaha You can always wish, just don't hold any breath for it. :D
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Post by cptnvimes on Aug 28, 2023 16:31:05 GMT
I would settle for a finished sharpened un-hilted blade that I could make a custom hilt for... I wish more manufacturers would offer bare blades. hint...hint
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Post by Lancelot Chan on Aug 28, 2023 16:54:04 GMT
I would settle for a finished sharpened un-hilted blade that I could make a custom hilt for... I wish more manufacturers would offer bare blades. hint...hint Watched the 7 difficult cuts challenge yet?
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