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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 11:44:35 GMT
Hello everyone. I've always wanted a real sword. I saved up and bought a Practical Plus Paul Chen Katana years ago and snapped it on some branches in the woods back then. I've been researching medieval blades because they're awesome and my favorite. I've been playing Kingdom Come Deliverance lately too so I'm all fired up. Anyway, this is my first post and I'd really appreciate some advice on which sword I should get. It would be used to cut stuff in my backyard and take in the woods and stuff. Nothing major like competitions and such just yet, but who knows? I'd love to get an Albion Crecy or even more the Alexandria but I ain't cheap I broke. So, I can save up and get the Crecy in a while or pick one of these suckas below. Would some of you fine chaps chime in and drop some knowledge on a humble Christian? Thanks. From my research I've decided on the following. Tell me what you think.. 1. Ronin Katana #7 roninkatana.com/ronin-katana-two-handed-long-sword-7/#PhotoSwipe15244579507692. Hanwei Tinker Pearce Sharpened Bastard Sword with Fuller - SH2411 www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2411&name=Hanwei+Tinker+Pearce+Sharpened+Bastard+Sword+with+Fuller3. Cold Steel Hand and a Half kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=CS88HNHI really like the black one too...(What's the difference?) kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=CS88HNHM...have a good day and God bless.
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 12:33:39 GMT
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pgandy
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Posts: 10,296
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Post by pgandy on Apr 23, 2018 13:05:43 GMT
It is obvious that you want to cut and you’ll probably be cutting, or attempting to cut, stuff that swords were never intended to cut. The end result will be another broken sword like your Paul Chen Katana. You might be better off rethinking and get something that’s up to the job and forget what you are experiencing with the video games. Machetes are relatively cheap and will take a beating. If you want something that looks more like a sword consider CS Cutlass Machete. Condor also makes cutlass machetes. In short a tool/weapon. For something classier look at what TFW (Traditional Filipino Weapons). Look at the traditional Philippine stuff and not their entry into European or oriental swords. I think that you’ll be much happier. Of course there are other vendors offering weapons/tools.
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 13:11:19 GMT
Thanks for the reply. The katana incident was over 10 years ago and I've grown a lot since then. I definitely want a 2 handed medieval sword and I will be safe and take care of it. Here's a 5th option... 5. Hanwei Bastard Sword www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=SH2250N
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Post by SandStormZA on Apr 23, 2018 13:36:52 GMT
Well, I've never handled any modern reproduction, so take my opinion for what it's worth. I'm also considering which sword to buy first, and I'm leaning heavily towards the Ronin Katana #7. This is only based on looks, reviews, reputation, and relative price, so please consider a hands-on opinion over mine
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 13:39:34 GMT
Thanks for the reply brother. This is so exciting isn't it?
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 23, 2018 14:04:33 GMT
Hey son - you've got a good list of choices there. I own both a #1 and #2. I have heard good things about #3 and #4. I'm not too sure about #5. I will say if you want a very tough sword (that you may eventually have to re-wrap the grip on), you can't go wrong with #1. The #2 is the lightest/fastest sword on your list (even more so than #4, I'd guess). If you decided to get the #2, it pays to spring for the additional sharpening if you're using it to cut. Just my 2c.
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 14:12:00 GMT
Hey son - you've got a good list of choices there. I own both a #1 and #2. I have heard good things about #3 and #4. I'm not too sure about #5. I will say if you want a very tough sword (that you may eventually have to re-wrap the grip on), you can't go wrong with #1. The #2 is the lightest/fastest sword on your list (even more so than #4, I'd guess). If you decided to get the #2, it pays to spring for the additional sharpening if you're using it to cut. Just my 2c. Thanks man. That is good to know. What would you do in my shoes? Buy a cheaper $300 sword or save up $900 and get the Albion? I really appreciate it
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 23, 2018 14:33:41 GMT
Phewww. That's a tough choice. It's hard to tell what would be better in your shoes having just been introduced. Though - I would be wary about starting out with an expensive blade. People's tastes sometimes change. I thought I would be more interested in katana or arming swords when I started, but now my entire collection pretty much consists of longswords. So I'd start with a cheaper blade - no one gets just ONE sword anyways. If you're just wanting to do backyard cutting, you certainly don't -need- an Albion. Want, of course. If you're someone who is skilled with crafts, I'd say get a Hanwei-Tinker longsword or bastard sword, and redo the grip or scabbard. Both of them are less durable than the Ronin #7 or (likely) the Coldsteel H&H or Windlass Agincourt. The Ronin doesn't come super-sharp, but it definitely WILL cut, and is probably the 'toughest' sword out of your list. (Edit: I don't own an Albion - but at least three swords in Albion price range, so I guess I can't answer it completely.)
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 14:54:24 GMT
Great advice Faldarin. Hopefully more people will respond who know about the other swords so I can get a better handle on this. I am pretty crafty and love to customize things so I really do appreciate your help.
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 23, 2018 14:57:04 GMT
Great advice Faldarin. Hopefully more people will respond who know about the other swords so I can get a better handle on this. I am pretty crafty and love to customize things so I really do appreciate your help. To explain - the reason I mentioned the Hanwei-Tinker line, is because they are a hex nut construction. You can take the hilt components apart pretty easily to customize or change them out if you want. (The grip that comes with them generally is pretty lackluster.) I believe all the other swords you listed are peened, meaning they have a stronger construction, but aren't as easy to disassemble. Good luck in your search.
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Post by randomnobody on Apr 23, 2018 15:06:25 GMT
I noticed the Cold Steel swords are listed as "threaded" and "nut" so maybe they can come apart? Might have some epoxy to deal with.
I'm no Euro fan, so I can't speak to the selection any better than anybody else here except to echo the other comments.
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 15:31:27 GMT
Great advice Faldarin. Hopefully more people will respond who know about the other swords so I can get a better handle on this. I am pretty crafty and love to customize things so I really do appreciate your help. To explain - the reason I mentioned the Hanwei-Tinker line, is because they are a hex nut construction. You can take the hilt components apart pretty easily to customize or change them out if you want. (The grip that comes with them generally is pretty lackluster.) I believe all the other swords you listed are peened, meaning they have a stronger construction, but aren't as easy to disassemble. Good luck in your search. Falfarin and randomnobody, I understand what you're saying about the hex nut construction. I noticed with the Cold Steel Hand and a Half the regular version is peened however the Man at Arms black version is a hex nut. Is one better than the other besides you can take one apart pretty easily? I also noticed the regular one is 1060 and the black is 1055. Thanks again
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 23, 2018 15:46:30 GMT
Ah, I didn't even notice the MAA was a hex nut... I'd expect epoxy as randomnobody said though in that case.
A -well done- hex construction isn't a problem unless you are consistently striking very hard targets, and then you probably have bigger problems with the blade, than just your hilt falling apart. I personally have not had a problem with any of the six hex-assembled swords that I own (three of which are expensive, but they have a FAR more secure construction than the others). Some people have had issues with them though, I know.
If you are worried about a hex nut assembly's strength though? Do your customizations, and then just epoxy the thing. It'll be nearly as good as a peen in most cases.
The difference between 1060 and 1055 is pretty negligible from a usability standpoint. One thing you'll learn after being around a while, is that the heat treat of the steel is far more important than the steel type (in most cases!). In that case, I'd wager the heat treat is very similar for the two blades.
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 16:39:46 GMT
Thanks Faldarin. How would you rank the 5 swords I listed? I can tell you know your stuff.
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Post by Faldarin on Apr 23, 2018 17:19:08 GMT
Thanks Faldarin. How would you rank the 5 swords I listed? I can tell you know your stuff. Now you're asking an incredibly tough question. They are actually very different swords with how they handle. The best I can do for you is give you my opinion of a ranking, and why they are where they are in my list. Here we go, in my order: Hanwei/Tinker Bastard Sword(Light, fast, with a comfortable length grip, but still substantial enough to be a good cutter. I might be a bit biased with this one, it's the first sword I -really- enjoyed. As I just implied, personal experience.) Ronin Katana Euro #7(This is a very well built sword. It didn't come with the sharpest edge, but it will still cut well with proper technique. It's also a very large blade with a comfortable grip. If it matters to you, the scabbard is one of the better ones I've seen out there. One of the only cons is that it 'feels' a little heavy. Personal experience.) Cold Steel Hand & a Half(I've heard good things about this sword from most people who have handled it. The only problem is you might get rattly fittings from Cold Steel - epoxy will fix that, maybe some shims... but once additionally sharpened, apparently these are great blades.) Battlecry - Agincourt War Sword(I've also heard good things about this blade. The whole Battlecry series is generally well received, the most divisive thing being the blackened/blued finish on the blades. It only ranks so low for me because the grip's a little short for my liking.) Hanwei Bastard Sword(Here's a bit of my personal bias - I'm not a fan of Hanwei's non-H/T Euro lines. They seem to be a paint-by-numbers sword design that ends up a lot more blocky than they need to be, and heavier than they need to be as well. Other people obviously have different opinions.) Again, take all these with a grain of salt! Swords tend to be pretty personal things, and these are just my experiences/thoughts/opinions.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Apr 23, 2018 17:23:43 GMT
Ah, I didn't even notice the MAA was a hex nut... I'd expect epoxy as randomnobody said though in that case. Epoxy surely will work. However, I recommend Loctite. Never had a problem with the Blue 242 but it is possible to use a more aggressive Loctite.
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Post by son on Apr 23, 2018 18:16:10 GMT
Thanks Faldarin. I'll process that later. It's a busy day at work. Thanks to you too pgandy. I'll remember that if I get a hex. If anyone else can help please tell me what you think. Hope you all are having a nice day.
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Post by ember on Apr 23, 2018 19:47:21 GMT
Ah, I didn't even notice the MAA was a hex nut... I'd expect epoxy as randomnobody said though in that case. Epoxy surely will work. However, I recommend Loctite. Never had a problem with the Blue 242 but it is possible to use a more aggressive Loctite. Yep, locktite is probably a better bet, if you ever need to separate it a bit of heat will do the trick nicely, where as with epoxy that would be more difficult.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Apr 23, 2018 20:38:31 GMT
Out of all of those I'd say find a Windlass Roven or the CS Italian.
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