pattyb0009
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Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,900
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Post by pattyb0009 on Jan 8, 2018 20:24:51 GMT
Hey, all. As far as bare bones longswords go, I've got the old VA Trim Longsword. I love it. I'm looking for another like it, so I thought I'd pick up a Hanwei Tinker. I've heard things ranging from good to great and wanted to see if anyone had/has one and what the overall impression is. I know people have discussed them on here, but I'm particularly wondering if that blade scratching issue with the scabbard has been solved over the years. It's not a deal breaker, but I'd love it if there wasn't much of a chance to scratch my blade. Also, well balanced??
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Post by dchisenh on Jan 8, 2018 21:00:36 GMT
I've had mine for a little over a year now and I absolutely love it. I really like the balance and think it handles great. Mine didn't have any scabbard scratching issues from the factory, so it's not an issue with all of them.
I like mine so much it's with Steven Huerta getting a new handle and wrap to go with a new Printed Armory Viscount pommel from LG Martial Arts!
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Post by Faldarin on Jan 8, 2018 21:15:38 GMT
Hey pattyb - I imagine you've got a VA PL like I've got. It's one of my favorites. If you want something similar, the H/T Bastard Sword is -close-, a lighter blade for certain. A H/T longsword has a -much- wider blade at the base, and a considerably longer grip than either of those. I've owned both, along with the VA PL and still do. (I might even say a BIT too long, and I do like longer grips.) The caveats with the H/T is that the blades don't tend to come with the best edge. They need some touching up.
I've never had a stock scabbard with my longsword - but I did have one with the bastard, and it did have the scraping problem. However, you can mitigate that with some quality time on the chape with a dremel. That's what I did until I decided to get a custom scabbard made for it along with a new grip.
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pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,900
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Post by pattyb0009 on Jan 8, 2018 21:50:41 GMT
I've had mine for a little over a year now and I absolutely love it. I really like the balance and think it handles great. Mine didn't have any scabbard scratching issues from the factory, so it's not an issue with all of them. I like mine so much it's with Steven Huerta getting a new handle and wrap to go with a new Printed Armory Viscount pommel from LG Martial Arts! Thanks so much for the info. I've heard nothing but praise about Steven Huerta's work. I may end up going the same route! Thanks again.
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,649
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Post by stormmaster on Jan 8, 2018 21:54:05 GMT
I've had mine for a little over a year now and I absolutely love it. I really like the balance and think it handles great. Mine didn't have any scabbard scratching issues from the factory, so it's not an issue with all of them. I like mine so much it's with Steven Huerta getting a new handle and wrap to go with a new Printed Armory Viscount pommel from LG Martial Arts! Thanks so much for the info. I've heard nothing but praise about Steven Huerta's work. I may end up going the same route! Thanks again. I cannot recommend Steve enough, his work is clean and fast and very moderately priced
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pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,900
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Post by pattyb0009 on Jan 8, 2018 21:54:10 GMT
Hey pattyb - I imagine you've got a VA PL like I've got. It's one of my favorites. If you want something similar, the H/T Bastard Sword is -close-, a lighter blade for certain. A H/T longsword has a -much- wider blade at the base, and a considerably longer grip than either of those. I've owned both, along with the VA PL and still do. (I might even say a BIT too long, and I do like longer grips.) The caveats with the H/T is that the blades don't tend to come with the best edge. They need some touching up. I've never had a stock scabbard with my longsword - but I did have one with the bastard, and it did have the scraping problem. However, you can mitigate that with some quality time on the chape with a dremel. That's what I did until I decided to get a custom scabbard made for it along with a new grip. That's exactly right. The VA PL is one of my favorites as well. So simple yet so beautiful and alive in the hand! I'd thought about the bastard sword; I just love the blade geometry and pommel on the longsword though I suppose that could be fixed easily by buying a replacement pommel. I also like longer grips, so I'm glad that you mentioned there is such a thing as too long even for those among us who like a lot of real estate south of the guard. Thanks so much for the info. I may indeed get the T/Bastard instead. Maybe I'll roll a die.
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pattyb0009
Member
Getting into antique sabers...
Posts: 1,900
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Post by pattyb0009 on Jan 8, 2018 22:43:30 GMT
Thanks so much for the info. I've heard nothing but praise about Steven Huerta's work. I may end up going the same route! Thanks again. I cannot recommend Steve enough, his work is clean and fast and very moderately priced I AM very interested in your blade after all...
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Post by Faldarin on Jan 9, 2018 0:49:54 GMT
The H/T bastard sword has a longer grip than most 'bastard' swords, but I thought it was just right, personally. Be prepared to redo the grip though, the base one is kinda sad, on both swords. Yeah - check out the measurements before you decide... the H/T longsword has a longer grip than most feders. Also - I highly recommend Steven Huerta's work. You seem like you'd prefer to do customizing yourself though. In the case of either sword, if you intend to cut with it, the edge will need touched up - and the grips will probably need redone, at the very least. You've already heard of the scabbard issues.
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Post by Cosmoline on Jan 9, 2018 1:13:27 GMT
How strong are the tangs? I saw a video with one coming loose, but I don't know if that's a recurrent issue.
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Post by dchisenh on Jan 9, 2018 2:41:37 GMT
I agree with the other posters that the edge does need some work. I haven't gotten around to touching up the edge on mine yet, since I knew I wanted to get it customized I figured it would be easier to work on with the factory edge. When I get it back, I'll be getting it sharpened up to my standards! I'm not sure how strong the tangs are since I haven't cut with mine yet, just dry handled it since I haven't put a good enough edge on it. I remember reading where someone over in Europe, I think, was sparring with someone else and broke their H/T longsword, I think it had a blunt blade on it. That is the only case I've heard of or read of and I think it was awhile back, so I'd wager the tangs are just fine. And Patty, I was drawn to the blade geometry of the H/T longsword too. I also liked the fullered bastard, but I ended up getting the longsword and I'm really glad I did. I'd get it if I were you and if it's not your thing, I'm sure you can resell it (or return it, depending on where you get it from). I bet you'll keep it though!
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Post by Faldarin on Jan 9, 2018 2:45:26 GMT
How strong are the tangs? I saw a video with one coming loose, but I don't know if that's a recurrent issue. I don't know about - you mean, the nut coming loose? If you have that issue, there's always epoxy - I haven't personally had it though. The only issue I know of, as dchisenh brought up - there was an issue with the tangs breaking on the blunt version only for a while, because they were hardened to the same point as the blade. The sharps don't have that issue... but I didn't know exactly what pattyb was thinking of getting, so that probably should be brought up.
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Post by dchisenh on Jan 9, 2018 4:17:03 GMT
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LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,095
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Post by LeMal on Jan 9, 2018 5:07:00 GMT
For a while I've been absently wondering if the Dunvegan pommel might actually fit an HT Longsword (or be rigged up to). I know the Dunvegans are ostensibly made for the EMSHs, but that's the pommel look I'd really like.
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,649
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Post by stormmaster on Jan 9, 2018 5:22:41 GMT
If u want a look at a ht longsword tang go look at my post about a project by jimbo curry, u can see the tang is substantial and good
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LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,095
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Post by LeMal on Jan 9, 2018 7:53:13 GMT
If u want a look at a ht longsword tang go look at my post about a project by jimbo curry, u can see the tang is substantial and good Oh, that much I know. ;) I'm just wondering if the Dunvegan pommel will fit. It seems like it should, at least with a fitted handle, even if the Dunvegan's not specifically advertised for the longsword--but all the HT models use the same nut.
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stormmaster
Member
I like viking/migration era swords
Posts: 7,649
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Post by stormmaster on Jan 9, 2018 12:55:11 GMT
If u want a look at a ht longsword tang go look at my post about a project by jimbo curry, u can see the tang is substantial and good Oh, that much I know. I'm just wondering if the Dunvegan pommel will fit. It seems like it should, at least with a fitted handle, even if the Dunvegan's not specifically advertised for the longsword--but all the HT models use the same nut. with a little grinding on the edges of the tang anything could fit
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Post by taheer on Jan 9, 2018 13:51:22 GMT
Hi All,
Im literally about to buy my first sword. This site has been a great help!
Ive come to the following 2 option:
Windlass - Agincourt War sword (battle cry)
I have not seen many reviews for this. I have heard windlass is hit an miss, but also know that John Clements is considered to know his stuff.
Hanwei Tinker Bastard Sword with Fuller. Excellent reviews. but the issue with scabbard is putting me off, anyone fixed this?
Any advice would help. I wont be using them much. But like the idea of having a REAL sword made of decent quality. Thanks and I am a noob so any advise or suggestions are welcome.
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Post by dchisenh on Jan 9, 2018 16:12:07 GMT
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LeMal
Member
Posts: 1,095
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Post by LeMal on Jan 9, 2018 16:12:11 GMT
Oh, that much I know. ;) I'm just wondering if the Dunvegan pommel will fit. It seems like it should, at least with a fitted handle, even if the Dunvegan's not specifically advertised for the longsword--but all the HT models use the same nut. with a little grinding on the edges of the tang anything could fit Or space-filling filler, if the converse is true and the original fit too loose. Hmmm, come to think of it, when you mention minor grinding, the EMSH blade width and LS blade width are only slightly different. I'm starting to ponder putting the whole Dunvegan set on and seeing if I like the product ... (Though as always, I hope if anyone gets to it before me they hop on the forum here and share!)
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Post by Faldarin on Jan 9, 2018 18:29:43 GMT
Hi All, Im literally about to buy my first sword. This site has been a great help! Ive come to the following 2 option: Windlass - Agincourt War sword (battle cry) I have not seen many reviews for this. I have heard windlass is hit an miss, but also know that John Clements is considered to know his stuff. Hanwei Tinker Bastard Sword with Fuller. Excellent reviews. but the issue with scabbard is putting me off, anyone fixed this? Any advice would help. I wont be using them much. But like the idea of having a REAL sword made of decent quality. Thanks and I am a noob so any advise or suggestions are welcome. I'm going to say first, I haven't handled that particular Windlass. However - there's a few things that can be said in comparison. The battlecry line, I've generally heard comes fairly sharp. The Agincourt is much shorter than the H/T bastard. I believe the grip's slightly shorter as well. The H/T bastard is going to be a longer sword overall - but you're going to need the probably resharpen the edge yourself, or buy from somewhere with an additional sharpening service. (I've heard that the edges on the Battlecry line are generally okay.) You mention the scabbard issues with the H/T - but you're not really getting apples to apples either. The Agincourt's 'scabbard' is hard leather, more of a fancy sheath. It doesn't have a wood core like the H/T. That makes it far more flimsy, and much worse for long term storage in general. I was able to fix the 'scraping' issue with the scabbard by widening the mouth of the H/T scabbard's chape with a dremel. It takes some patience, but it can be done.
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