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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 20, 2015 2:50:25 GMT
I have run into something I'm not sure of. I can't seem to figure out how to round this section off so it's a smooth transition. Is it as simple as blending it in after the two sections are rounded? It's probably difficult to describe the process. Bit I figured I'd see if you guys had any tips.
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Post by jwest on Aug 20, 2015 4:10:09 GMT
That's actually the belt sander I'm looking at. With your recommendation, it's definitely the one for me. No use spending 4-5 times as much on a craftsman or grizzly when it'll be used for this specific purpose. Something like $47 shipped, is hard to beat. Thanks, that means a lot coming from you (I've seen your work). Definitely my first time, BUT I've been scouring this forum and looking at all the builds for 6 or 7 months before I signed up and started this project. And can say, nothing beats having first hand advice on the specific project your doing. Reading other builds and tutorials is nice, but I always seem to come away confused about a certain step or two. I can see this becoming an addiction.. I only own this rhinelander and the cold steel hand and a half sword that I got a long while ago. So I think I need to buy a blank blade, or do like you did with the rhinelander blade. Make all new hardware. Inside every Hanwei Tinker longsword blade is a bastard sword patiently waiting. Just ask Findlithui. Great thread.
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 20, 2015 18:45:39 GMT
jwest that makes a lot of sense. And findlithui has done some amazing work with them. I went and looked at the bare blade, and there's more then enough material on the tang to modify it and peen it (if I insisted on have a peened pommel). And getting rid of the secondary bevel wouldn't be that difficult with the new belt sander. Hmmm.. youve got me thinking. Do people usually buy the blade blank or the whole sword and remove the hilt? I'd like to get into making scabbards too, but haven't found a reliable place to buy throats and chapes.
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Post by jwest on Aug 20, 2015 22:24:43 GMT
I guess it depends on the blade type and the skill set of the builder. Hanwei stopped selling tinker viking and Norman blades. If you want one of those blade types you would have to purchase the whole sword. Or if you wanted a wheel type pommel (the simplest to fab) on a longsword and did not mind the stainless cross buying a complete sword would be a option. One of our members is starting to produce fittings for the Hanwei Tinker blades. See thread below. Hanwei Tinker Line Custom Fittings | SBG Sword Forum
And chapes from DBK Customs. DBK Custom Swords & Scabbards - Scabbard Chapes for Sale
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 21, 2015 19:02:55 GMT
I kept working on the grip. Getting it even, after taking the leap from controlled "mathematical" steps was more difficult than I anticipated. I have a ton of photos of the process, but they are redundant. Here's one. I made a quick jig so I could put the grip in the drill and sand it perfectly round at the bottom. For the first time since I started, I'm not really happy with the results. I'm not sure what it is, but it seems off. I think I may have tapered too fast on the top part. I still have sanding to do to make the top part round and the grip needs to be about 1/2" shorter when finished. But I put it together real quick to check the alignment. I don't know, I'm still debating if it will look better with cord/leather on it and the right lenght.
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Scott
Member
Posts: 1,678
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Post by Scott on Aug 22, 2015 1:43:02 GMT
Great work, looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Incidentally there is an archery subforum if you felt like sharing some pictures of that longbow build you mentioned...
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Aug 22, 2015 1:46:05 GMT
I'm one for more facets, but this has a nice shape. I'd probably try vertical risers and wire wrap to the pommel with a spacer. I'd play with different looks till something grabbed me. I was hooked from the get go on this one, and a nice job with the write up too.
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 22, 2015 3:37:29 GMT
ScottIs there? I'll definitely have to go check it out and post something. I have a couple projects that I documented but haven't shared anywhere. KaOsBlaKbLaDeThanks, I'm kind of thinking the same thing. The space in the cross and pommel left me a bit limited. Something about this current grip isn't the way I pictured. And everytime I look at it, I see something else that seems off. Question for all; how much detail comes through the cord and leather wrap? Obviously a lopsided grip will look lopsided, but minor flaws in symmetry, how about that? I want to do risers: one near the cross, three in the midsection, one near the pommel. This is what I was going for (though I think it's obvious), minus riser placement and without the taper from pommel to midsection. Seemed simple enough for a first grip. This is the finished (or very close) core.
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Post by MLanteigne on Aug 22, 2015 11:29:31 GMT
Looks awesome!
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 22, 2015 19:31:32 GMT
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 23, 2015 1:34:09 GMT
Findlithui
Oh man, I'm sorry that happened. Sounds like a really useful and interesting read.
I had that happen early on in this thread, I thought maybe it was a fluke.
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Post by chrisperoni on Aug 23, 2015 2:24:23 GMT
eez zo purteee!!
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Scott
Member
Posts: 1,678
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Post by Scott on Aug 23, 2015 11:30:53 GMT
No worries mate. I just hope you keep posting pictures of your work.
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 23, 2015 12:33:14 GMT
Scott I'm hooked now. It never dawned on me to show this stuff off to a group of people who appreciate what it is. I'd always show friends and coworkers, and while they think it's "neat" or a "fun little hobby", they're never really that interested. With swords especially. This has been a real pleasure and this forum is full of kind and helpful people who are all craftsman in their own right. The stage I'm working on now looks redundant in photos, but with any luck I'll start cord wrapping/risers soon. Findlithui's info will be invaluable in that reguard (thanks again). As always, thanks for checking it out and posting.
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 24, 2015 3:39:36 GMT
I got a new tool today. It was $8 at lowes. It may be a well known thing around here, but I only saw it a month ago and bought it today. It's a carpenters contour guage. It stays however you leave it and helps measure symmetry. Which has been the hardest part for me. I also got the French curve findlithui mentioned and it's great. That too will find a prime spot in my kit.
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 24, 2015 22:51:39 GMT
I finally got the grip core finished. Although; everytime I think that, I end up doing something else to it. But this feels like it's it. Now I just need to go get some hemp twine and start the wrapping process. Has anyone ever used Keda dye on leather? It's really nice on wood, and I can't buy standard leather dye locally. Keda dye is analine dye that can be mixed with alcohol. They said it would work on veg tanned leather (which I have) but would need something to keep the color in. But that's pretty much any dye right?
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 25, 2015 0:38:43 GMT
I think your right. For how inexpensive the correct dye is, I should use that.
I'm getting ahead of myself, but;
Is that dye oil based? And do you dye after assembly?
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Post by Huer-Ta on Aug 25, 2015 12:37:03 GMT
One of the most important things for your grip wrap is to take your time with the seam and make sure your get it tight and flush. I definitely agree with Findlithui to search a few different grip threads to find a method that works for you and/or adapt one y=to your preference.
I also use Fiebings as a dye and then seal it with their Atom Balm product. Keep in mind that with a lot of dyes it will dry just abit lighter than when you initially apply it so don't freak out if it's a little darker upon initial application. Your core shape is beautiful, I can't wait to see the finished product. Are you going to add any risers?
And I can't wait to see the scabbard you make for this ;)
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 26, 2015 3:23:28 GMT
I am seriously considering building a scabbard for this. To the point of it being planned. Once I finish the bows I'm doing, since that enables me the money to play with. Ok, so I set up the core on a cresting/wrapping machine I built for arrows. The machine is basically a poor man's lathe that runs off a sewing machine motor with a pedal to adjust speed. It gets up to some high rpms, but for this I'm leaving it unplugged. It let's me spin the core with little resistance while holding it perfectly steady. I got some natural hemp cord at walmart, as I don't have a craft store around here (northern NH). The stuff looked ok to me, but had dye in it. It is about .93mm thick. (More on that later.) It's only sold in 32ft spools. I did a practice run, luckily. And it wasn't enough.. And it was too thick I believe. I couldn't fit the core into the pommel opening. And it's only going to get thicker with leather. Walmart has another type in a larger spool and it's thinner. It's riddled with imperfections though, thicker in some spots. And doesn't have a noticable twist to it. But it's natural hemp, and strong. So it may be worth a try since I can smooth it after its on. I'll most likely have to do what @findlithui mentioned. Leave the part of the core that enters the pommel and guard without cord. Then the leather alone should make it the perfect size. Any input is welcome. This was a long one, so if you made it this far, thanks. I'll be trying again tomorrow night with new cord.
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Post by dustinf11 on Aug 26, 2015 14:37:25 GMT
That spool is ideal, thanks for the link. I should have looked online first.
Also, I didnt realize how silly the colors would turn out. It wasn't so obvious at the store, then I get it home and my core turns into a certain batman villain before my eyes.
I did a few test fits after. The core fits into the guard and pommel perfectly with just leather. So much so that it actually held them in place with some light movement.
On a sword like this, do you think I should get the core smaller, or leave the tenons cordless?
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