Ronin Katana European line model #4
Oct 17, 2015 21:24:11 GMT
Post by tea on Oct 17, 2015 21:24:11 GMT
Hi Draven. If your dad is good at cutting thread I suggest welding in some solid mild steel rod with thread cut ONLY where it needs to be for the nut. The rest can stay solid, especially at the weld, and thus stronger. Also I suggest cutting the dove tail a bit deeper and thus using a longer rod. Much more contact area for the weld then.
After welding do not quench the weld area to cool it. Quenching will make the high carbon component harden and become brittle, and may even create cracks. Make sure he lets the weld just cool slowly and naturally (you'll have to catch him as most welders immediate action is to dunk the weld).
And then after it has cooled, rub a section back to shiney with sand paper so you can temper the area of the weld for good measure in case of any martensite formation. Draw it past dark blue to a light silvery blue surface oxide (heat colour ~ 300-320C /600F), removing the piece from the flame frequently to monitor the colour changes (which only happen in oxygen, away from the flame).
Again let it cool slowly. Dont let it get red hot or you'll have to start again. A stove top burner or propane torch will suffice for the tempering.
[Actually it wont hurt you to heat to light blue right up to the shoulder for good measure. Tangs don't need to hold an edge and as such don't need to be as hard as a blade edge - softer is tougher]
It's a case of the Devil you know when it comes to the return. At least you know with this blade one problem will be fixed. Where as a replacement blade is a wild card. I believe in taking matters into one's own hands (as y'all may have noticed). I don't trust any one. Not doctors (worse than used car salesmen; pushing their drugs and unnecessary surgery), mechanics,... even burger flippers can't even get your order right (put the cheese... on the bun...).
Looks like another issue besides the weld may be the way that the pommel is fitted to the tang?
sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/post/605571
Would drilling a 1/4" - 1/2" deep mortise into the pommel that would fit snugly over the tang above the threaded portion and removing the same amount from the grip be a way to further improve upon this design?