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Post by Bushido on Nov 27, 2010 3:54:36 GMT
Awesome sword, very impressive! Well done!
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Post by brotherbanzai on Dec 2, 2010 15:47:37 GMT
Hey aronhk_md, Ah, you have one of those big flat bed table sanders. Those things are huge! Given the width of the sanding surface, I wonder if it wouldn't be easier to make a simple hand held rig to mount the blank in at the desired angle and then hold it perpendicular to the sander rather than parallel? Thanks Brendan  Thanks a lot chenessfan  Stats for this sword are up in the M&V section now. As a side note, the method I show here should work for a relative beginner to achieve distal taper that is linear. However, once you have experience with the grinder, you can use it to get concave or convex taper by varying the pressure/angle/speed of the passes. I've been using grinders for years in bronze work and so have a pretty good feel for it. Thanks a lot Bushido |
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Post by aronhk_md on Dec 3, 2010 6:34:48 GMT
Absolutely gorgeous Jeffrey. Love it. My sander actually is only 4" wide.....and uses a 106" belt. But I AM considering a side jig that would allow me to grind the edge angles  |
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Post by brotherbanzai on Dec 8, 2010 18:36:34 GMT
Thanks Aronhk_md I misread your post and thought you meant that the bed was 48" wide and used a 106" long belt, like one of those big industrial table sanders |
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Post by Alexander on Jan 12, 2011 2:32:23 GMT
Stunning Jeffrey, an absolutely awesome vid.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2011 16:33:01 GMT
Hello, (first post here),
Just wanted to thank you for this post BrotherBanzai. Been searching a lot for the best Sword forum and saw this and a few other posts here and decided THIS was the One!
I'm going to be starting a stock-removal sword soon and it's been very helpful/ gives me hope.
I'm planning on 3/8th thick 5160 and similar tools, (Hopefully very soon...I'm off to finish my tax return towards materials/some tooling I need, Got new ideas from here...TMI but I was planning to use the rest towards a welding class that's full now :cry: ...found a CDL school for tractor-trailer driving instead... it will be fun to set up a proper shop at home in-between [/prsnl Info]) Thanks again! Awesome!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Feb 23, 2011 22:33:55 GMT
Hi Derek
Congrats on getting to work on making your own sword.
Maybe see if you can get some 1/4" thick 5160. Thats plenty thick enough for 90% of medieval blades. The only one's you might use the thicker stock for could be a big DaDao, a hollow ground type XVIII, or some katanas. And for those it would only be at the base and taper down thinner as they go along.
The top priority tools you'll need after a full kit of safety equipment is a quality 5" angle grinder, files, and sandpaper, and a dril press.
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Post by brotherbanzai on Feb 23, 2011 23:28:17 GMT
Thanks Alexander, glad you enjoyed it Hi Derek, Your welcome and welcome to the forum. 3/8 thick would be great for a diamond cross section long sword, as Brendan suggests, it might be a bit of overkill for a regular euro unless you're planning on a lot of distal taper. Course that's up to you. Good luck with it once you get started and be sure to post the results of your effort. Also have fun learning how to become a "truck drivin' man". |
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Feb 24, 2011 5:19:03 GMT
hey brother, where do you get your steel stock from/ i cant find it anywhere, could you maybe link me to the site you buy yours from?
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Post by brotherbanzai on Feb 24, 2011 14:06:23 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 24, 2011 15:21:13 GMT
Thanks for the welcomes/info. Glad to see the topic is still active too!  Here's two more steel suppliers: www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php (Knife Making Steel tab) Oddly I found this through a link in the Wikipedia (footnotes for spring steel): www.mcmaster.com/#chrome-silicon ... el/=b5ppv7 I e-mailed them and they replied shipping would be $16.25,(76.79 total) and since my short-sword design is 2 ft. total and piece is 6ft....but NO, they won't cut it into three two footers. (Admiral Steel ,linked in other reply cuts stuff from plate but haven't checked yet)... My unique design is very wide short sword, 4.5"inch at one point...(I know BUT): I have a functional "template" I call it ,(protoype in mild steel), handle shape I want mounted and all. Been planning for a long time to build a "real" proper sword version. 4" is about the widest sword/knife grade steel I've found so I'm planning to forge it 1/4" wider each side at widest point before stock-removal. FEEDBACK (please): My blade's width tapers wider from hilt rather than to a point ,AND then to a point, (at tip). So for "Distal Taper", (and greater ease geometrically grinding), I'm thinking if I grind the diamond cut into the stock steel, AND THEN cut the shape, it would be more grinding of course BUT when I cut the shape, the edges will have their distal taper, THEN the Edge bevels ground lastly. From a side profile the width will bevel thinner, while the center ridge of diamond cross-section will remain the same width that way though. Make any sense??? THANKS, and BTW got to keep meditating on set-up since no steel yet  , but have to get working on this so my woman will finally see why i'm online so much! |
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2011 13:55:49 GMT
What a fantastic thread this is. Thanks for the tips. Im probably going to start off using wood for practice and move on to aircraft aluminum for my swords since they are going to be movie props. This is one of the most useful tutorials I have found
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Post by brotherbanzai on May 5, 2011 18:59:30 GMT
Dang, I forgot all about this thread. Glad I could be of help marksman.
Are you still around Derek? Did you ever get your sword made?
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2011 2:10:58 GMT
Im glad I could keep this thread going |
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Post by Deleted on May 12, 2011 15:03:46 GMT
What are the dimensions of the steel you use and do you think I would need to buy slightly thicker if I use aircraft aluminum
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2011 21:55:38 GMT
Yep. Been busy with that truck school, and family. Long story short(er), that school was a total let-down. After two weeks into the "class" I found this: www.industrywhistleblower.com/20 ... ce-of.html ...I thought atleast I'd get my CDL license and find my own work... But just when I needed a few more hours on the road to be confident, the class ended. (Unbelievable rip-off, everything they told me was lies, and they hardly ever even have a road truck at the "school"[scam] ever) :evil: I put EVERYTHING I had into it too. Well I guess I learned MOST of all: to NEVER sell my dreams. (Even IF I think I can juggle them). I was playing around with my "Template" version the other day, and it split a 2x6" in half in one hit...It's not even sharp! :shock: (Mild steel too). I NEED to finish a "real" version soon. Thanks again for this post. |
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Post by brotherbanzai on Jun 16, 2011 21:36:26 GMT
Hey marksman,
I think I already answered this in a pm but in case I didn't...
I usually use 1/4 " steel which is a good size for general stuff. Smaller blades can use 3/16 " while some blades that need a thicker cross-section will use 3/8 ". I have seen aluminum blades in 1/4". I wouldn't go too much thicker since you'll be adding more weight that way which goes against the purpose of using aluminum in the first place. Aluminum can clog up the tools much faster than steel.
Hey Derek,
Bummer about your truck school. Seems like you have to be sooo careful these days as there are lots of people out to scam you in every which way. I suppose that's always been the case but now there are just more avenues for them to reach you.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2011 20:56:30 GMT
So I have a plan on my "prototype" sword... I've been working scrap metal and it's a d*mn shame some of the stuff I toss... So I kept a thick piece and cut it out using about SIX cut-off discs in my Ryobi grinder (that I've learned to "man-handle") Anyway it far exceeded my expectations, and by no means would I be embarrassed to show this newer version to another sword-builder. Main thing though I'd prefer to build it myself rather than give it away. (although I would be thrilled for it to become a new sword style, crafted by other sword-builders)... Anyway , I a planning to tey one final approach to have a local machine shop cut my diamond edge bevel for the blade, AND then craft the rest myself. This design is so radical , I've known it will be loved, hated, or disliked. BUT mathematically I've known all along If I can sell 200 for say $500 a piece... that equals 100,000 in revenue (despite the tooling and materials cost)... Well I haven't been feeling well lately and out of time online for now, More soon. Thankyou very much. I'll try to keep updated since this thread is very similar to my intentions. Oh, my main reason for wanting the diamond cross section is for shape change during heat-treat (WHICH i WILL do myself), And the difference in final weight I had anticipated. Gotta go for now. Thankyou again Bonzai Bro. |
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Post by jhart06 on Sept 12, 2011 0:05:54 GMT
Irony, thy name is brotherbanzai... I was looking at grinders and bandsaws and such today and said 'self... that's not so costly with your promotion now, you should look for some good guides' and then I saw this guide and was reading, and said further 'self, here's a good guide with an active person to ask for guidance, now you just need to find steel suppliers'... And I get to the last few pages... And besides needing a mental eval for the use of the 'self' tag when speaking internally, I said 'Well dag nabbit J, your friend just said you can use her garage.. You can get the tools not so costly.. You have the guide and support of several blade makers...YOU LACK EXCUSES NOW!'
That being said, banzai do you mind if I send you a few PMs on the tools I had found to make sure they'll do the job and such? I can afford to save for it, slowly, but I cant afford to buy a grinder or saw or such that isn't going to suit, and I dont want to buy it thinking it's ok and have to replace/upgrade if I want to get 'serious'
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Post by brotherbanzai on Sept 12, 2011 18:36:23 GMT
Good luck with the project Derek. I hope you are friends with the machine shop guys or have found a very cheap machine shop as that much machining could be very expensive. Though if you have the capital to put up to do a large run it becomes a lot cheaper. Hi jhart06, Sure you can pm me questions. Just be forwarned that I'm often away from the forum for extended periods at times. You can always email me though. You can make a blade shape with any cheap grinder using some cut-off wheels, stones and discs coupled with a drill to make any small radiuses and then hand files and paper to finish. It's just a much bugger pain in the butt and requires a lot more patience do get a good blade than if you had nice tools. Start with a dagger, you'll be glad you did |
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Stats for this sword are up in the M&V section now.
, but have to get working on this so my woman will finally see why i'm online so much! 
