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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 4:56:02 GMT
I handled the gen 2 henry V and it does handle quite nicely. The main downside is the cheap gen 2 leather on the scabbard and handle. Course I suppose cheap leather is easier to deal with then cheap wood cores (hanwei, I´m looking at you...).
Also 5 foot 7 and the VA 303 is about what you would have seen historically.
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Post by Mune on Nov 5, 2009 5:25:15 GMT
Thanks again guys for the additional info,
Regarding the EMSHS, I believe it is a type X (or Xa) which I am not as partial to. I prefer a POB close to the hand rather than further out. When it comes to blade control vs slash force, I'm going with the former (at least for my first sword).
Regarding the Norman, I've seen a few different swords going by that name. If it's the one I'm thinking of, I decided against it partly for the same reasons as above (further forward POB) and also because the pommel looked tiny. I'd want the pommel to have a reasonably larger radius than the grip, to help prevent slipping. Again, at least for my first real (sharp) sword.
Also, I believe both of those swords were within the longer end of the spectrum for one-handers, just going by my (flawed to be sure) memory.
Regarding the blade length issue, I think I've decided on a good solution. As mentioned, I recently ordered a pair of wooden wasters (haven't gotten them yet though). They come with a 31.25" blade length, which I was planning on shortening a bit. Instead, I will leave them as is for a while to see how it suits me. The wasters actually look quite like the AT303 except for the curved crossguard. I may still decide to shorten the blades, but I'll at least give the longer length a try for a while and see how it goes.
Tom K. Thanks for the info on customizing the AT303, I will likely go with a different crossguard should I end up choosing it. I'm guessing you own one yourself, so what do you think of the grip on it? As in, should I consider customizing that as well? It looks better than the Windlass XIV grip (less gloss) but hard to tell how it might handle.
Also, while we're talking about customization, do you know if they offer such options with the Signature Bristol? I definitely like the looks of it, but red isn't really my color. I was thinking a dark blue or green might suit me better.
Cold Napalm Indeed, I would probably be of average or even tall height by medieval standards. And by my guess the 'starving' look was rather in style during that era. Perhaps a 31" blade will suit me fine, I'm just going off my rather limited experience with non-functional swords so far. I seem to like them short-ish, but then again, I've never held a real sword (with good balance, etc.).
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 5:33:18 GMT
Mune, I also prefer shorter blades of about 26"-28".... You may want to also consider the Windlass Italian Short Sword (A.K.A. Sword of Milan) I have one and it's really nice. They discontinued this model but KOA still has them and it's only $129......From what I hear you seem to want a longer handle, but I have fairly wide hands and actually prefer a shorter handle.....It seems to lock my hand into the grip if that makes any sense. The pommel is threaded on, but I have done fairly heavy cutting with mine without any issues. The scabbard is what I would call medium thickness leather.....but a wood core sheath is not that hard to make if you have some spare time.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 5:37:53 GMT
The hanwei EMSH sword is a type XII, not a X...but the norman is a type X. In either case, I think you will find that both swords to be quite controllable even with the PoB where it is. You will find this true of any well made sword...however what you like for how your body works is another matter entirely .
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Nov 5, 2009 13:52:42 GMT
as far as I know Sonny has said the Signature models can be altered as far as color but not changing out parts like the pommel or guard. the practical series (AT303 etc.) can be altered in both colors and fittings. the grip of any 303 or signature or indeed any sword that comes from Valiant Armory should be excellent. oh I forgot to mention that Sonny will make the grip cores in whatever shape and thickness you like so you can have it fat or thin or in between. Sonny is really running a good deal over there.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 14:11:09 GMT
Thanks again guys for the additional info, Regarding the EMSHS, I believe it is a type X (or Xa) which I am not as partial to. I prefer a POB close to the hand rather than further out. When it comes to blade control vs slash force, I'm going with the former (at least for my first sword). Regarding the Norman, I've seen a few different swords going by that name. If it's the one I'm thinking of, I decided against it partly for the same reasons as above (further forward POB) and also because the pommel looked tiny. I'd want the pommel to have a reasonably larger radius than the grip, to help prevent slipping. Again, at least for my first real (sharp) sword. Also, I believe both of those swords were within the longer end of the spectrum for one-handers, just going by my (flawed to be sure) memory. Regarding the blade length issue, I think I've decided on a good solution. As mentioned, I recently ordered a pair of wooden wasters (haven't gotten them yet though). They come with a 31.25" blade length, which I was planning on shortening a bit. Instead, I will leave them as is for a while to see how it suits me. The wasters actually look quite like the AT303 except for the curved crossguard. I may still decide to shorten the blades, but I'll at least give the longer length a try for a while and see how it goes. Tom K.Thanks for the info on customizing the AT303, I will likely go with a different crossguard should I end up choosing it. I'm guessing you own one yourself, so what do you think of the grip on it? As in, should I consider customizing that as well? It looks better than the Windlass XIV grip (less gloss) but hard to tell how it might handle. Also, while we're talking about customization, do you know if they offer such options with the Signature Bristol? I definitely like the looks of it, but red isn't really my color. I was thinking a dark blue or green might suit me better. Cold NapalmIndeed, I would probably be of average or even tall height by medieval standards. And by my guess the 'starving' look was rather in style during that era. Perhaps a 31" blade will suit me fine, I'm just going off my rather limited experience with non-functional swords so far. I seem to like them short-ish, but then again, I've never held a real sword (with good balance, etc.). We mean this Norman: www.casiberia.com/product_details.asp?id=SH2426
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 15:27:34 GMT
Now assuming this post is seen How about getting the Darksword Knight Sword? They have the free dagger deal there at the moment. I have always liked the looks and size of the Knight sword and really want one of their daggers (Ranger). Is it a bad sword at all? Because this deal seems good. How about that dagger?
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Post by Mune on Nov 5, 2009 15:32:23 GMT
In that case I was mistaken, I was thinking of the Gen2 Norman. Anyway, I'm not as partial to the looks and (I'm guessing) the handling of type X's. I am a big fan of Norman (and British) history in general though, so I was a bit disheartened in my original searching to find a 'Norman' sword not to my liking. I'm a bit of a medieval history buff, and the history of the British isles is my favorite. On that note, I own and am quite proficient with my old longbow. Any of you sword-swingers out there also archery fans? I've been target shooting since I was a little kid. RedironI'll have to check that sword out sometime soon, unfortunately not at the moment because I'm off to work in a minute... Anyway, on a more personal note I was shying away from swords noted as being of Italian origin or style (among other European regions). As mentioned above, the history of Northern Europe is my specialty, and I'd like to own a sword of which I could tell someone all about it's theoretical origins (the design, anyway). Thanks for the input though, I'll take a look at it to be sure. I'm a little wary of the $130 price tag, but hey, beggars can't be choosers, so to speak. Cold NapalmSorry on the mistaken typology regarding the EMSH, I'm a bit new to the concept of the Oakeshott system. I just heard the phrase 'Early Medieval' and immediately assumed it was a type X or similar. And you're right, any well made sword should handle nicely. To be honest, I have little firsthand experience to base any of my preconceptions off of. I'm likely to learn a lot about sword handling from my first real sword purchase, I just want to make sure that my first one wont leave me wishing I had chosen another. Tom K.Good to know the Signature Bristol can be colored to my liking, I'll be sure to do so if I end up choosing it. Probably a dark blue. Regarding the grip cores of the 303, what is the shape and size of their standard grip? As in, would you consider it thick, thin or in between? Also, is it rectangular, hexagonal or rounded (or otherwise)? EDIT: EdvvardSorry for kindof hijacking the thread, I'm hoping that my search for a good arming sword helps us both out in the discussion of such. Tom K. had some mixed feedback regarding the DSAMKS on the previous page or two, be sure to check that out to see if it might be a good fit for you (or not). Interesting to hear about the free dagger deal though, I hadn't noticed that yet. I too would like to own a nice dagger sometime, as a 'travel piece' so to speak (I'd have it in my car in case of... ninjas, or whatever).
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Nov 5, 2009 15:53:35 GMT
It all depends on what you want and what you like as to whether the DSA Knight is good or bad. it might be good for you but bad for me. I am not a fan of DSA swords because I personally prefer swords that are lighter and livelier. if you like heavy swords and don't mind doing a lot of work sharpening it then it can be a good sword for you. the reason I most often steer new guys away from them is because they are not sharp and even if you pay for a sharpening service for them from your vendor you will end up with a terrible edge. there are plenty of people who LOVE DSA swords, I'm just not one of them.
now I can go on and on about how good the Valiant Armory Practical and the Hanwei Tinker EMSHS are but that is my personal preference.
the big deal on Valiant is that they offer quality that is beyond the normal scope of a sub$300 sword and the big deal on the Hanwei Tinker EMSHS is that it has mass distribution, distal tapering and blade shape that is very nearly on par with swords from makers like Albion which is an amazing find in our price range.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 20:06:04 GMT
Archers? OVER HERE!!! I LOVE my Fred Bear recurve! It's without a string at the moment so I use a Ragim Tamars recurve which is very nice, too.
Jonathan, a scabbard is NOT close to useless if it's not tight. It's soooo easy to fix that, just put a piece of leather in the mouth and you're done!!
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Nov 5, 2009 20:45:58 GMT
Mune, I missed your last post as it snuck in while I was writing mine.
to answer on your grip-core question, the standard ones are oval and sort of thin but thicker than the Hanwei/Tinker swords and more importantly Sonny will make you a grip core of whatever size and shape you want and I THINK that may even be a normal service included in the standard price if you buy it from him. so grip core size and shape should not be an issue with Valiant Armory. but don't take my word on it ask Sonny and he will tell you what is what. my word is in no way binding on Valiant Armory.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 5, 2009 21:30:32 GMT
chenessfan, if I put leather in the mouth of the scabbard the sword will still rattle like crazy. That will only stop it from sliding out.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2009 13:04:23 GMT
Jon, I thought you meant the scabbard was too loose to hold the sword. Sorry.
BUT, I'm not sure if a piece of leather couldn't lessen the rattle. I mean, look at japanese sayas, the only thing that makes for a tight fit is the habaki, the rest of the blade doesn't touch the inner sidewalls of the scabbard. So there a tight fit at the mouth is enough. I've never tried it but maybe your rattle problem could be solved or at least lessebd if you managed to make a tight fit a the scabbard mouth. Give it a try!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2009 14:47:15 GMT
With the japanese katana it is worn edge up and it is a curved blade, so the curved of the mune snugs up against the inside of the saya and that is what stops the rattling. With a straight sword you don't get that and so you will always have rattle unless you get a custom fitted sheath.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2009 15:58:12 GMT
Edvvard, as I've stated in several posts, I have a DSAMKS and matching dagger that I bought from the factory, with both factory sharpened. There are at least 2 reviews of these daggers on this forum somewhere but I'll give you the highlights here: The dagger are very solidly built with the same fit and finish as the swords. The dagger scabbards seem to be a "one size fits all"that doesn't exactly fit any, but they work AND they are free. I tend to wear mine in place of the sword at indoor SCA events, the dagger being large and impressive enough for feasts and court without the excess size and weight of the full length blade. Does a fine job of cutting up loaves of bread as well as the occasional roast beast. Does not work at all well as a butter knife. Pleas feel free to PM me with any other questions, K
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Post by Deleted on Nov 6, 2009 20:57:59 GMT
Chenessfan, the scabbard is too loose to hold the sword and it rattles badly. I am going to try sticking foam inside of it to lessen the rattling.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2009 0:32:41 GMT
Jon, I suggest wool over foam. Some foams may damage your blade. Also if you happen to get some water in the scabbard, foam will hold that water forever inside the foam structure, but because wool is water resistant, it will eventually dry.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 7, 2009 3:44:14 GMT
Where can I find this wool?
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Post by sicheah on Nov 7, 2009 4:07:59 GMT
Yeah foam might not be the best material to stick on your scabbard. I have a katana that rattles at the tip even though the scabbard mouth is not loose. I tried cotton wads similar to those find in aspirin bottles. I would put in a very small amount of cotton first and see if it still rattles. If it does, continue adding more cotton (in small increments) until it stops rattling.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Nov 7, 2009 6:19:46 GMT
Where can I find this wool? there are a bunch of sheep around here . . . speaking of which . . . why don't sheep shrink when it rains?
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