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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2008 3:48:55 GMT
I'm going to be receiving a SBG custom katana in a couple of months, and I'd like to change the brass habaki with a silver colored one. I've never done any sort of customization, or even taken apart a katana. I have wall hangers, but this is my first "real" blade. Is this a big job? Would it be expensive to acquire one and commission someone to do it for me? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2008 4:12:46 GMT
It will propably cost far less to have the habaki silver- or nickel plated (if you want a matt finish) than to buy a new one. Not to mention fitting work... I am going to have two habakis and two seppas nickel plated, costing me less than one new cheap nickel plated from Japan.
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Post by 293master293 on Dec 1, 2008 5:18:15 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2008 6:50:48 GMT
I'm fine with plating the existing habaki. That would ensure the best fit, I imagine. Is it tough to take it off and put ti back on? How does it stay on there? Are there any tutorials on dismantling the sword pieces available?
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Post by k on Dec 4, 2008 13:21:03 GMT
I´m sorry I can´t answer your question. I would if I could. I´wonder a bit myself how to do it.
Are there really no one here who knows how to take off and put back a habaki? - perhaps you could find it somewhere on the net if you search the right words.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 4, 2008 17:02:01 GMT
Habaki stay on by fitting very precisely. when a habaki is made a small shim is cut, fit and soldered in (usually on the blade side) to ensure a very snug fit. most production katana get a habaki very close to the right size but just a tad too small and then jam the sucker on. this can make it very hard to remove the habaki. I have used a flathead screw driver and very light hammer taps to dislodge habaki without damage but that is very risky. you'd be better off using a block of wood instead of a screwdriver.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2008 19:10:11 GMT
Habaki stay on by fitting very precisely. when a habaki is made a small shim is cut, fit and soldered in (usually on the blade side) to ensure a very snug fit. most production katana get a habaki very close to the right size but just a tad too small and then jam the sucker on. this can make it very hard to remove the habaki. I have used a flathead screw driver and very light hammer taps to dislodge habaki without damage but that is very risky. you'd be better off using a block of wood instead of a screwdriver. Isn't this the truth eh? Taking the habaki off on my PPK for customization was a total pain lol. Making a proper habaki isn't that difficult...as long as you pay attention to the details, and what its job is. Do some searches over on SFI, and around the net and you'll find a ton of information. If you have any facility with hand tools at all you can do it =). Cris
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Dec 4, 2008 20:33:07 GMT
yes, but with current prices on copper brass and bronze it's often cheaper to buy them off of ebay.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2008 21:26:58 GMT
yes, but with current prices on copper brass and bronze it's often cheaper to buy them off of ebay. This is true. The only problem with that (and with the way production swords habaki are setup), is that if the 'pressures' exerted by a random fit habaki (one not made for the blade) are too exreme, or in a sensitive area of the machi, the blade can and will propogate cracks if used extensively. The lower machi is hardened steel, with a 90* 'L' cut out of it. Part of the habaki's purpose is to protect that area from contact with anything, and also to support it from above. If we start putting random pressure points in that area...well, that's bad =). I think part of the reason we don't see more failures in this area on production habaki is that 99% are not used extensively. Occasional backyard cutting of mats or water bottles really isn't all that stressful on the ha machi. Start taking that same blade to some real targets that put real shock into the blade...doweled tatami, bamboo, etc...and the problem will rear up rather quickly I think. Anyhow, I'm not disagreeing with you at all =). More clarifying what I originally should have said. And then there's the fact that if he can properly fit a production habaki to a blade it wasn't made for, he can probably make his own. I'm actually (on my next Japanese blade that's for 'me' lol) considering making one out of pocket change mokume =). Couple dollars in quarters and you have a nice mokume billet that can be used for all sorts of things. If I end up liking it enough I may try to make a fuchi/kashira out of it as well. When I do I'll keep you all posted =). Oh, here's an example of what kind of mokume I mean: Pardon the poor polish, that was a progress shot lol. I made that as a gift for my wife to bribe her into going along with letting me buy the tools to forge blades lol =). You can imagine how easily you could draw it out into a regular billet, 3"x1"x3/16", then form your habaki. Cris
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2008 3:44:50 GMT
I really don't have any tools or anything available.. it sounds like this may be too big of a job for me. I might try to figure out some way to change the color of the habaki it comes with, that way I don't have to worry about fit. Anyone know any alchemical formulas to turn brass black/silver?
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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2008 10:08:24 GMT
For blackening a brass habaki you can use liver of sulphur. I'm gonna age some copper and brass parts using this. Be sure to degrease the piece totally before blackening, or it's gonna end up spotted instead of an even colour. You can also use gun blueing. Here is a guide to patinating metal: www.sciencecompany.com/patinas/patinaformulas.htm#2If you want it silver coloured, you'll have to get it plated through electrolyzing.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 6, 2008 10:19:22 GMT
For blackening a brass habaki you can use liver of sulphur. I'm gonna age some copper and brass parts using this. Be sure to degrease the piece totally before blackening, or it's gonna end up spotted instead of an even colour. You can also use gun blueing. Here is a guide to patinating metal: www.sciencecompany.com/patinas/patinaformulas.htm#2If you want it silver coloured, you'll have to get it plated through electrolyzing. You know Ichiban, I didn't even think of that. If I recall...you can plate cupro-nickel onto parts using standard pocket change nickels (you could do sterling silver as well if you have some junk jewelery laying around you're sure is silver). Just search 'do it yourself electro plating' on google, and you should get at least a dozen good pages to research. Basically all you need is a car battery, or battery charger, leads, some salt water, the piece you're plating, and the pocket change. It's completely safe and can give good results. Worst case...if it doesn't look how you want it you can always polish it off. Something to think about. Cris
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