|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 18:29:28 GMT
Just have a look around the forum. sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/post/389702/thread And about everybody and their mom seem to have the D-Guard. I would not buy it for the current 150$ KoA wants for it though.
In the end, nobody can tell you how you like a sword, you have to find out yourself, for me the primary issue is length, 24/25" is too short for my liking. And with the half basket guards (EDIT like the 1860) I hate that they pull a bit to one side. It's slight, but I hate it.
|
|
|
Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 18:46:06 GMT
Thanks. I skimmed that.
Seems like it is indeed a good cutter and good quality over all.
The one issue seems to be the grip, it can be a bit cramped according to replies. Apparently the Hanwei has a larger, and more oval grip. I do have hands on the larger side, so that could be something to keep in mind.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 18:52:56 GMT
I think you misread, the Windlass has the bigger grip, but the leather wrap isn't very comfortable and it is morer rounded, which makes edge alignment harder. According to KoA Windlass is 1cm/0.38" bigger. Hanwei is 9,5cm/3,75" which is pretty small, would be a bit small for me.
|
|
|
Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 19:09:26 GMT
Ah, I see. I guess I'll see when the Hanwei comes in how it is for me, and whether I would want to buy the Windlass version. I am still trying to hunt down the D-Guard Bowie from a Canadian source, as to avoid higher shipping, and maybe customs duties, etc.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 19:21:46 GMT
There are constantly some special offers going, just keep looking. In the worst case wait for next black friday.
|
|
|
Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 20:25:40 GMT
Well,
I wanted to see how much it would come in total to buy from Windlass/Museum Replica's itself. Came to $197 USD with the shipping. I wasn't able to see the Canadian Dollar equivalent before it automatically confirmed the order.... so... I guess I am now yet another Owner of a D-Guard Bowie Knife lol. I'll have to check my payypal and see what the real damage was...
Edit: Damn, the damage was bad - $278 CAD.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 21:20:29 GMT
Yikes. That's a nice hole.
Btw, be careful with Windlass sheaths, especially in the beginning, they tend to be very rust accelerating. After the leather flap that holds the blade centered has soaked up a bit of oil, it will be better. The first few weeks take the blade out and reapply oil often. You will be able to see the spots where the flaps wick away the oil. I know too much oil isnt good for leather, but for me it was always these retention mechanisms making trouble until they were full of oil.
|
|
|
Post by twiggy on Jan 23, 2024 1:05:23 GMT
Thanks for the heads up.
I use motor oil on my firearms, but I guess that may not be good for blades.
I heard in SKallagrim's video that many people use baby oil, so I guess something like that or sewing machine oil for example would be more appropriate?
|
|
|
Post by eastman on Jan 23, 2024 1:32:06 GMT
Albion uses Breakfree CLP on their blades. IIRC, DBK recommended Birchwood Casey Barricade (been testing it out over the last month or 2).
Interesting that Skallagrim recommended Camelia oil, since I just bought the Japanese version to use on Japanese woodworking saws. May have to try it on a knife or sword.
|
|
|
Post by madirish on Jan 23, 2024 1:42:22 GMT
Thanks for the heads up. I use motor oil on my firearms, but I guess that may not be good for blades. I heard in SKallagrim's video that many people use baby oil, so I guess something like that or sewing machine oil for example would be more appropriate? Motor oil won't hurt anything, but it smells. Food grade mineral oil, 2 in one oil, gun oil, CLP, renaissance wax..all of those are fine
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 23, 2024 9:22:27 GMT
Baby oil depends a lot, many have added parfums and other things which might not behave so well in contact with metal.
Adding to madirishs collection: Petroleum jelly also works well. Sewing machine oil is just minearal oil, and I have been using it and petroleum jelly. Mixing both gives you something that adheres more to surfaces. Firearm lubricants can eat copper alloys and aluminium, so they should not be left in long contact with these. You can wipe oxidation off brass with these easily, and a little contact does not do much, but leaving it drenched in gun lubricants can produce pitting. In the end the basis for most of these lubricants is mineral oil. The biggest difference is quality, some low quality sewing machine oils smell like motor oil, the higher quality, food safe ones don't have any smell at all. They all work the same. If they stick and produce a thin film of oil, all is good.
|
|
|
Post by carbon on Jan 23, 2024 14:34:14 GMT
Sorry, but that's just not the case, at least when it comes to aluminum. Many firearms use aluminum alloys for lightweight parts such as grip frames on 1911s, frames on 22 autos, etc. so firearm specific lubricants will definitely not damage those. If it did I'd have several useless guns in my collection.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 23, 2024 14:36:37 GMT
It does only matter for not anodized/coated aluminium to be specific. Although it is much slower than with copper.
I'd take it as precaution, not it will definately happen. Anything witha pH higher than 8 or lower than 6 can over time damage bare aluminium, the anodized stuff is much tougher.
|
|
|
Post by madirish on Jan 23, 2024 15:47:53 GMT
Baby oil depends a lot, many have added parfums and other things which might not behave so well in contact with metal. Adding to madirishs collection: Petroleum jelly also works well. Yeah, i should have listed that.... long term storage smeared with petroleum jelly and wrapped in clingfilm is something I've seen recommended by one of the smiths....mebbe Tod?
|
|
|
Post by larason2 on Jan 23, 2024 17:46:19 GMT
MIneral oil won't eat copper, I have experience with that. I have some brass reed organ reeds I cleaned with mineral oil over a year ago, and it has helped prevent oxidation very well. The green verdegris that forms on copper alloys isn't like rust though, once it forms it protects the metal underneath from further corrosion. That's why the statue of liberty is still there! If some gun lubricants have an acid or any kind of oxidizer in them, they can corrode copper alloys, though I would suspect most of them are based on some kind of mineral oil type of oil.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 23, 2024 17:56:07 GMT
I am talking stuff like Ballistol, it can eat small pits where drops form or it gets stuck like in a crack. They are slightly basic pH 8-8,5 to remove powder, coppper and lead fowling. Some more than others. Because they are basic, they are quite effective at removing oxidation from copper alloys as well.
|
|
|
Post by twiggy on Jan 23, 2024 20:56:17 GMT
So, I should just get a container of vaseline then by the looks of it?
Edit: I see Renaissance Wax is also easily available on Amazon as well, but much more expensive than vaseline.
According to the tracking the Hanwei Hanger should come in tomorrow, so I need something I can get quickly off of Amazon, as the weather here is not that good currently.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 23, 2024 21:09:20 GMT
If look isn't that important. Oil or wax will look better on the wall. The Vaseline leaves a more visible, streaky texture, even when you thin it with mineral oil. It works great, you can definately see it though. Another thing I have experienced, when you hang a bare blade, dust settling on it can sometimes suck up enough oil that the blade isn't protected any longer. The vaseline just gets furry over time. Wax is probably the best long time nice looking solution, vaseline the best cheap long time solution.
|
|
|
Post by mrstabby on Jan 23, 2024 21:13:43 GMT
RenWax is decicive, some like it for others it never works right. I think it probably comes down to either application problems, the blade not being clean enough or the wax might be bad. In the end I don't know, for me it works well on the fittings, I don't use it on the blade because it is harder to get off for sharpening and stuff than vaseline/oil. I think also the climate might be a problem. If it is too hot, the solvents from the wax get lost quickly and as soon as it is dry, it is stuck as is and you can't get a nice surface any longer.
|
|
|
Post by twiggy on Jan 23, 2024 21:14:00 GMT
Alright, I'll go with the wax.
Edit: Bought.
Tomorrow should be exciting, as long as things aren't delayed.
|
|