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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 2:19:35 GMT
I am considering a Hanwei Revolutionary War Hanger as my next purchase, it is affordable, but on the higher end of what I am willing to spend at $425 Canadian. From the reviews I have seen, it does seem pretty good, and I do like it's more no-nonsense (not needlessly fancy) design, probably modeled after one that would've been mass produced for a standard infantryman I guess. The one thing I don't like about it is the coating they put on the blade to make it look antique. I guess I could remove that , but how? 91-99% rubbing alcohol, a soft brush and elbow grease? Another solvent? etc? I might as well ask, is rubbing alcohol even safe to use on blades? I mean it's metal, so I would assume it is, but I know better than to just assume things. Larger than that, how should I go about basic care for the blade, I guess just cleaning it if it's dirty, and keeping it oiled would suffice? www.reliks.com/functional-european-swords/revolutionary-war-hanger/
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 22, 2024 5:00:47 GMT
Alcohol isn't a problem for steel, solvents too, just avoid acids, except for special etching treatment. If the black is blued steel you probably need something aberrasive. Oil it afterwards.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 5:06:47 GMT
So things like Alcohol, Vinegar, and many others are not a problem, great to know.
I assume there should be special products for polishing blades as well, and special oils?
As for removing an unwanted coating, can that be done without having to sand the blade or anything that could cause damage like that? Some sort of solvent and elbow grease should be enough? That's the only issue I have with a sword I would otherwise buy.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 22, 2024 5:12:59 GMT
Vinegar is an acid, lemon juice also, biological oils contain acids too. Relative soft acids aren't a big thing if only for a short time contact and good cleaning and oiling later. Solvents like acetone are no problem for the steel, but can affect the grip leather. For blued steel you can try grey Scotch Brites. Also if you have oxidated spots from acid on the blade that aren't going away with an oiled rag.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 5:20:17 GMT
Thanks, I believe I still have some old acetone lying around, so I can use that to remove the coating. Then I will just clean and oil. Maybe Polish if need be. Thanks to the simple design of the hilt and guard, it should be easy enough to cover up and protect from any acetone, that may accidentally get on it.
I found skallagrim's video on it here:
Apparently any metal polish should work.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 6:08:31 GMT
I've just officially bought the Hanwei Revolutionary War Hanger, and got a sharpening service for it. Can't wait, sprung for the 1-2 express shipping as it was only $4 more than the lowest, option anyways.
This will be exciting.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 22, 2024 6:19:28 GMT
You are now entering the the Twilight Zone.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 6:22:39 GMT
You are now entering the the Twilight Zone. Ha ha, Reliks was out of stock on the D-Guard Bowie knives, or else I would've bought one as well.
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 7:27:57 GMT
There are blue removers which are specifically made to remove this stuff, and it should work for other oxidation coatings. It seems to work pretty easily, not much rubbing. I think it's a polishing compound with an reduction agent.
You can use acids, I have used citric acid often, it works better for me than acetic (vinegar). I just wash it off with dish soap, never had problems. You have to be careful not letting it sit for too long, but it is a cheap rust/oxidation remover.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 7:44:03 GMT
There are blue removers which are specifically made to remove this stuff, and it should work for other oxidation coatings. It seems to work pretty easily, not much rubbing. I think it's a polishing compound with an reduction agent.
You can use acids, I have used citric acid often, it works better for me than acetic (vinegar). I just wash it off with dish soap, never had problems. You have to be careful not letting it sit for too long, but it is a cheap rust/oxidation remover.
Thank you. I will try to hunt down a blue remover, should be safer than acetone, my fear with acetone is it getting onto the guard and other parts of the handle by accident.
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 7:49:30 GMT
I doubt acetone would remove the coating. It's just a solvent not unlike alcohol, can dissolve basically any paint or plastic, but it doesn't do metal at all. EDIT: Having seen a close up now, it looks to be sand blasted or something, so it will tahe a lot of grinding to remove all the pock marks.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 7:57:09 GMT
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 8:03:20 GMT
Yeah, I would hold up on buying supplies and wait for the blade. The surface seems to be rough and removing the "antique" finish alone would not really make it look much better then. Unless the "roughness" is only painted on and not like sandblasted in it will be much work to resurface the whole blade.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 8:20:27 GMT
From Cult of Athena's review, he just mentioned that it's a special coating they put on their antique line, so hopefully that is all it is.
It does seem to be a good cutter though, from his review, and from another guy's review I saw, all good things to say about it really.
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Post by madirish on Jan 22, 2024 14:00:59 GMT
The whole sword seems to have this sort of antiqued/patinated/bumpy look, even the blade. I'd just leave the blackening. It goes well with the rest of the esthetic. Not to mention, if it was a brass guar on an antique, it would likely have aged and darkened quite a lot (not THIS dark, but at least into the brown range). If you remove it and make it bright and shiny, it will contrast with the blade.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 22, 2024 14:20:33 GMT
As madirish mentioned it I looked up the sellers site and the pictures again. It looks like the blade has the Hanwei antiqued finish. I dislike it on my Hanwei Cromwell mortuary and tried to sand it down which isn't quite easy. I hope yours is a bit less antiqued than mine. Otherwise the hanger looks like a good sword.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 17:18:10 GMT
My issue was not the guard, but the blade.
However if it is indeed more than just a coating, but the blade metal itself is also bumpy, then I'll just leave it, as I think that shinny and bumpy would look even worse.
Maybe they should make a version without this finish. That would be nice.
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mrstabby
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Post by mrstabby on Jan 22, 2024 17:32:58 GMT
Windlass does have something pretty similar. They call it "Pirate Captain Hanger". The 1860 Cutlass is also good, but a bit heavier.
The antiqued look always turns me away from these Hanwei swords.
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Post by twiggy on Jan 22, 2024 18:12:38 GMT
I have seen the Windlass "Pirate Captain Hanger" and I did begin considering it. However, I was unable to find anything about it on youtube, and it doesn't seem to be reviewed. I know enough that just because it looks similar, doesn't mean it'll be of similar quality, but I do hear that Windlass is one of the better affordable brands.
I would like to have some more information about something, and see how it performs before purchase.
Skallagrim has a video reviewing and praising the Windlass D-Guard Bowie Knife, and I was also recommended one by AndiTheBarvarian. so I will get one of those soon, as I said, I would've bought one at the same time, if Relik's wasn't out of stock.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Jan 22, 2024 18:19:14 GMT
The antiqued Hanwei blades are not coated, it's really pitting in the steel surface. You can sand it smoother, but it's really hard to get a shiny blade. That's bad luck, Hanwei often has a blade finish that looks a bit like folded steel hada lines, which I like much better. Nevertheless it's probably a good short cutter.
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