Project (Oakeshott Type) X
Dec 16, 2023 20:13:18 GMT
Post by blackjackjolly on Dec 16, 2023 20:13:18 GMT
I posted my review of the Honshu Historic Forge Viking Sword a few weeks back, and I mentioned in my comments some of the modifications I made to the scabbard rain guard to improve the fit.
Well, since then, I’ve been making gradual changes to the blade itself to bring it a little closer to a classic Oakeshott Type X. First:
The extension the fuller (mostly done with a half-round diamond file) isn’t quite as symmetrical or crisp as it might have been if I had better tools and more practice, but it doesn’t look too bad for a first effort. I still need to sand out a bunch of scratches and gouges left by experimentation and unsteady hands, but the basic shape is where I want it to be. To my eye, at least, it looks a lot more like a Viking-era blade than it did from the factory.
I am also considering putting a patina on the blade to hide any scratches I can’t get out, maybe with a simulated pattern-weld texture.
(Of course, for the hours I invested in doing this, I could have earned enough to buy a higher-end sword, but I enjoy the process, and my smart-watch registers sanding and sharpening as “steps,” so I’m counting it as exercise!)
Before:
After:
Well, since then, I’ve been making gradual changes to the blade itself to bring it a little closer to a classic Oakeshott Type X. First:
- I ground down the mid-rib between the fuller and the point so that it maintains the lenticular cross-section instead of shifting to a flattened diamond.
- I rounded off the point a little bit.
- As a result of 1 and 2, I increased the distal in the last few inches of the blade by about .5mm, so it is now 2mm thick 1" from the point. It also shortened the blade by almost .25"
- I extended the fuller by about 1.5”, so it now runs 27", terminating about 2" from the point.
- I blended out the secondary bevel to a 20° “apple seed” edge, and polished the edge up to 4000 grit so it’s kinda stupid sharp.
- All of this combined to reduce the overall weight of the sword by about 1 oz to 2lbs 13oz.
- I also used a gray Scotch-Brite and some pumice stone powder to give it more of a matte finish, both to make it look less factory-made and to cover some of my own errors.
I am also considering putting a patina on the blade to hide any scratches I can’t get out, maybe with a simulated pattern-weld texture.
(Of course, for the hours I invested in doing this, I could have earned enough to buy a higher-end sword, but I enjoy the process, and my smart-watch registers sanding and sharpening as “steps,” so I’m counting it as exercise!)
Before:
After:
