Honshu Historic Forge Viking Sword Review
Nov 9, 2023 0:22:55 GMT
Post by blackjackjolly on Nov 9, 2023 0:22:55 GMT
Introduction
I’ve been looking to acquire a “Viking” sword (in quotes because this style was far from exclusive to Scandinavian sea-raiders). I had my eye on the Balaur Arms Type H, but that model is perpetually out of stock (possibly discontinued?). But United Cutlery recently announced its Honshu “Historic Forge” line, which is being manufactured (according to the general consensus) by the former producer of the first generation of Balaur swords in India (Overseas Trading AKA Erik Steelworks), and is comprised, in part, of the older Balaur designs.
Their version of the Type H, dubbed the “Honshu Historic Forge Viking Sword”, lists for $60 less than the Balaur, and some of the other Honshu Historic swords have received positive reviews recently (see Kane Shen’s review of the Honshu Historic Forge Claymore), so I figured I’d act as guinea pig for the new line. (For those who aren’t familiar, most of the older Honshu focused on more “modern” sword designs, usually with plastic grips and overweight blades.) This model shows some differences with the Balaur version that I will detail below, and seems to be closer to the Erik Steelcrafts-branded prototype reviewed here.
Historical overview
I am far from an expert on swords so any judgements I make about historicity are based on stuff I learned on the Internet. Take with necessary salt. This is a design of sword that was common throughout Europe in the 8th through 10th centuries, ranging from Scandinavia to Britain to Francia, though the style is usually associated with Vikings since they were more commonly preserved in Norse graves than elsewhere due to religious difference. (See this video by Matt Easton, who has forgotten more than I’ll ever know on the subject.)
Full Disclosure
OTC has been the subject of some controversy. I don’t have first-hand knowledge of reported issues regarding OTC’s business practices, nor with the catastrophic tang failure of one of their swords, so I won’t comment except to advise you to search the SBG forums and make your own judgments.
Purchase and Shipping
I purchased the sword from (the somewhat notorious) BudK Online for $249 (after a $10 discount code I found). It is also available from RealSwords, as both BudK and RealSwords are the retail fronts for United Cutlery (kind of like how Museum Replicas and Atlanta Cutlery are the retail fronts for Windlass). Ordering from the BudK site was easy, but there was a little snag, because apparently BudK has a policy that in order to prevent fraud, they require any online order over a certain amount (probably $200) has to call into their Customer Service to confirm the order.
I got an email right after I submitted the order telling me to call in, and after I confirmed that this was their legit phone number, I called in and was put on hold for about 10 minutes. I gave up and called again later (this was like 7pm) and was put right through. I confirmed my order number, the amount of order, my address, and the last 4 of my credit card number, and was told the order would be sent to fulfillment. (This extra step is particularly annoying to uber-introverts like myself who hate talking on the phone…) I received a shipping notice the next day (Friday), and the package arrived via UPS Tuesday, a day ahead of schedule.
Initial Impressions
The package was not as well packed as I would like. It was double-boxed, with the interior box rather loose in the external one so it could rattle around, and likewise the sword did not have any padding in the internal box beyond the plastic wrapping the sword and scabbard. There did not look to be any damage from shipping, but I definitely would have preferred a bit more bubble wrap.
The hilt was wrapped in a ridiculous amount of stretch wrap, but the blade itself was just in a plastic sleeve with a hard plastic point protector. When I removed the sleeve, I noticed that the blade only had a thin coat of oil, not the heavy grease you usually see. And this may be why there were several spots of active surface rust on the blade and guard. It was easily removed with a gray Scotch-Brite pad, but it’s not a positive sign in terms of Quality Control.
The first thing you’ll see on the blade is a large “Honshu” logo. Unfortunately, I think it’s laser-etched, since neither the Scotch-Brite pad nor acetone put a dent in it. If I decide to remove it, it will take some elbow-grease.
In case you forget where you got it
Statistics
Components
The Blade
Like many lower-end “Viking” swords, the point of this sword is too acute, and the fuller a bit too short, for a classic Oakeshott Type X, but it’s not outside the historical range of blade designs (e.g., Geibig Type 3 or 4). Otherwise, the blade is competently rendered, with crisp lines and minimal rippling. There are clearly visible grind marks, but again, nothing a Scotch-Brite pad can’t handle. It shows reasonable distal taper from 4.6mm at the forte to 2.5mm 1” from the point.
Just a few ripples.
It lines up!
There is a distinct mid-ridge between the end of the fuller and the point, which isn’t properly historical, as it should have a lenticular cross-section, instead of the flattened-diamond-but-with-convex-edges it has.
The blade is sharpened with a strong secondary bevel. It is paper-cutting sharp out of the box, more or less, but the edge is “toothy” and inconsistent, sometimes tearing the paper after an initially-clean cut. I will be giving it a few pulls through the WorkSharp for sure, both to refine the edge and to round off the bevel a bit. It is worth noting that they left about 2” closest to the hilt unsharpened, but this isn’t necessarily a problem, especially if you want to finger the guard.
Sharp, but could definitely be sharper
The Handle
Another common issue with reproduction “Viking” swords is that the grips are often longer than the historical examples. In the case of the Honshu, the grip is 38”, which is shorter than many reproductions, but still on the longer side of the historical range. The grip is cord-wrapped and covered in brown…leather? It smells like leather, but feels kind of rubbery. It provides a secure grip, anyway, and looks good. Distinguishing it from its Baldur predecessor, it has a small riser halfway up.
The Guard
The guard is very simple with crisp lines. It has a deep channel to seat the blade, and is well-aligned with the blade edges. It measures 3.66" x 1" x 1".
The Pommel
The pommel is, as advertised, a classic Petersen Type H. It is appropriately big and chunky. It has crisp and consistent lines without uncomfortably sharp corners. There is no visible peen because, like historical examples, the pommel consists of two parts that are riveted together, concealing (I assume) the peen. There is a nice inlay of twisted copper wire wrapping around the junction between the pommel sections, and matching copper rivets visible on the underside. It measures 3.2" wide, 2.1" tall, and 1" thick.
The Scabbard
The scabbard is the most disappointing part of the sword, and is also where the Honshu version differs most from the Balaur model. The Balaur (based on the photos I’ve seen) has a simple, thick scabbard with a u-shaped chape and a wooden belt-loop doohickey (the technical term 😉). In contrast, the Honshu scabbard is thinner, has a triangular chape, rain flaps, and an integrated sword belt with tie straps (I think it’s what they call a “French tie”). From what I’ve gleaned from Tod's Workshop, this style is much more typical of the 13th-14th centuries than the Viking era, which is a bit disappointing. (I was pleasantly surprised that the belt is big enough to fit me!)
Anybody know how to tie this thing?
The integrated belt is made of thick, somewhat stiff leather, with the rough side visible, so it came from a cow.The leather on the scabbard itself is a different texture, and looking inside the “lips” of the rain flaps, I don’t see a rough side, so it may be “bonded leather” or PU. Correction: I performed some surgery on the scabbard to make it a better fit, and can confirm the cover is real leather. I can also just see the wood if the core, and it looks to be fiberboard rather than solid wood, which is…fine, I guess, and a step up from the un-cored leather sheaths common to Indian swordmakers.
The biggest issue is that scabbard fit is so poor that I wonder if they are repurposing the scabbard designed for a different model. There is definite rattle, and it will not hold the sword at all if tipped even slightly. Worst of all, the shape of the rain flaps is such that the guard rests a couple of inches above where the wood core starts. This also means the point of the sword barely reaches the top of the chape, leaving a bunch of empty space at the bottom. The design makes it very hard to add shims to inside of the mouth to tighten the fit, and I may end up slitting the sides of the rain flaps so the sword can slip deeper into the scabbard. ETA: I did slit the sides of the flaps, which allows the sword to sit fully in the scabbard, and a little felt tape has made it a much better fit.
It just doesn't fit.
Handling Characteristics
I can’t speak too much to the handling, because I live in a tiny 1-room apartment in Flatbush and have nowhere I can swing it with abandon. However, it is well balanced and reasonably agile, albeit with a definite choppy blade-presence. My luggage scale shows it as about 4.8oz heavier (2.95lbs) than advertised (2.65lbs), and about 6oz heavier than the Balaur is listed on the KOA site (2.5oz), but it doesn’t feel over-heavy. (Honshu usually doesn’t list weights on its older models, but seem to be listening to customers with the Historic Forge line.) The point of balance, at 4.12”, is a bit closer to the hilt that KoA lists the Balaur, but far better than the 7” in the Erik Swordcrafts review (which may be a typo).
It is worth noting that many people have problems with this kind of pommel design because it can dig into your hand when you extend the wrist through a cut, but I found it comfortable enough once I choked back on the grip towards the pommel instead of the guard (per Matt Easton). And removed my watch, which I wear on the “wrong” hand because my eyes are weird.
Test Cutting
Sadly, I have no way to do any proper test cutting (and my form is lousy anyway, so it wouldn’t provide much useful data). The sword did make short work of the shipping box, and the tip tracks also well for thrusting, even if that’s not the primary purpose of this kind of sword.
Conclusions
Overall, this sword is fine for its price point. The only real competitors for Viking-Era swords at the under-$300 level are Ronin Katana (and off-brand clones from the same manufacturer), which got some good reviews, but the hilt just looks too long for my taste; Deepeeka, which honestly has a wonderful variety of historical designs, but a poor reputation for weight and handling; and (if you shop around and can find one) the Hanwei Tinker 9th Century Viking Sword. The latter was my second choice, and if I had to do it over, I might have gone with it instead. Not because there is anything particularly wrong with the Honshu, but nothing exceptional either.
Pros
Cons
The Bottom Line
This is a perfectly adequate viking-era sword for the price. You don’t get more than you pay for, but you are not ripped off either. It’s a definite step in the right direction for United Cutlery and the Honshu line in terms of creating swords with more historical designs. If you’re looking for a sword of this type, you don’t want to spend the extra $100-300 for better choices, and you’re not worried if the scabbard isn’t period, it’s a good choice. If it were taking a class from me, I'd give it a solid B. (And my former students will tell you, I'm a tough grader.)
I know there is a UC rep on the forums sometimes, so if they see this, the first thing I would recommend changing is the scabbard. It's actually a pretty good scabbard for the price, but not for this sword. If you can't use the old Balaur design for some reason, so something like that. Or at least make it fit.
The second thing is to protect the sword better when it is being packaged, both from rust and from impact. Grease it up real good and splurge on some bubble wrap in the box.
Part of me hopes also Balaur will revive this design with an LK Chen blade, but I don't want to put more pressure on LK Chen than there already is.
I’ve been looking to acquire a “Viking” sword (in quotes because this style was far from exclusive to Scandinavian sea-raiders). I had my eye on the Balaur Arms Type H, but that model is perpetually out of stock (possibly discontinued?). But United Cutlery recently announced its Honshu “Historic Forge” line, which is being manufactured (according to the general consensus) by the former producer of the first generation of Balaur swords in India (Overseas Trading AKA Erik Steelworks), and is comprised, in part, of the older Balaur designs.
Their version of the Type H, dubbed the “Honshu Historic Forge Viking Sword”, lists for $60 less than the Balaur, and some of the other Honshu Historic swords have received positive reviews recently (see Kane Shen’s review of the Honshu Historic Forge Claymore), so I figured I’d act as guinea pig for the new line. (For those who aren’t familiar, most of the older Honshu focused on more “modern” sword designs, usually with plastic grips and overweight blades.) This model shows some differences with the Balaur version that I will detail below, and seems to be closer to the Erik Steelcrafts-branded prototype reviewed here.
Historical overview
I am far from an expert on swords so any judgements I make about historicity are based on stuff I learned on the Internet. Take with necessary salt. This is a design of sword that was common throughout Europe in the 8th through 10th centuries, ranging from Scandinavia to Britain to Francia, though the style is usually associated with Vikings since they were more commonly preserved in Norse graves than elsewhere due to religious difference. (See this video by Matt Easton, who has forgotten more than I’ll ever know on the subject.)
Full Disclosure
OTC has been the subject of some controversy. I don’t have first-hand knowledge of reported issues regarding OTC’s business practices, nor with the catastrophic tang failure of one of their swords, so I won’t comment except to advise you to search the SBG forums and make your own judgments.
Purchase and Shipping
I purchased the sword from (the somewhat notorious) BudK Online for $249 (after a $10 discount code I found). It is also available from RealSwords, as both BudK and RealSwords are the retail fronts for United Cutlery (kind of like how Museum Replicas and Atlanta Cutlery are the retail fronts for Windlass). Ordering from the BudK site was easy, but there was a little snag, because apparently BudK has a policy that in order to prevent fraud, they require any online order over a certain amount (probably $200) has to call into their Customer Service to confirm the order.
I got an email right after I submitted the order telling me to call in, and after I confirmed that this was their legit phone number, I called in and was put on hold for about 10 minutes. I gave up and called again later (this was like 7pm) and was put right through. I confirmed my order number, the amount of order, my address, and the last 4 of my credit card number, and was told the order would be sent to fulfillment. (This extra step is particularly annoying to uber-introverts like myself who hate talking on the phone…) I received a shipping notice the next day (Friday), and the package arrived via UPS Tuesday, a day ahead of schedule.
Initial Impressions
The package was not as well packed as I would like. It was double-boxed, with the interior box rather loose in the external one so it could rattle around, and likewise the sword did not have any padding in the internal box beyond the plastic wrapping the sword and scabbard. There did not look to be any damage from shipping, but I definitely would have preferred a bit more bubble wrap.
The hilt was wrapped in a ridiculous amount of stretch wrap, but the blade itself was just in a plastic sleeve with a hard plastic point protector. When I removed the sleeve, I noticed that the blade only had a thin coat of oil, not the heavy grease you usually see. And this may be why there were several spots of active surface rust on the blade and guard. It was easily removed with a gray Scotch-Brite pad, but it’s not a positive sign in terms of Quality Control.
The first thing you’ll see on the blade is a large “Honshu” logo. Unfortunately, I think it’s laser-etched, since neither the Scotch-Brite pad nor acetone put a dent in it. If I decide to remove it, it will take some elbow-grease.
In case you forget where you got it
Statistics
| | Honshu (my measurements) | Honshu (as advertised) | Balaur Arms (per KoA) | Erik Steelcrafts (per Barahir ) |
| Blade Length: | 29.25" | 29.5" | 30" | 29.75" |
| Grip Length: | 3.8" | 3.75" | 3.75" | |
| Overall Length: | 36.5" | 36.75" | 36.5" | |
| Blade Width: | 54.5" | 54.2mm | 57mm | |
| POB (Point of Balance): | 4.12" from hilt | 3.75" from hilt | 4.81" from hilt | 7" from hilt? |
| COP (Center of Percussion): | 19.25" from hilt | 20.75" from hilt | ||
| Weight: | 2 lbs 14 oz | 2 lbs 10 oz | 2 lbs 8 oz | 2 lbs 14 oz |
| Thickness: | 4.6mm @ base 4mm @ 15" 3.75 @ COP 2.5mm @ 1" from tip | 3.7mm - 2.2mm | 4.5 mm – 4.2 mm – 3.8 mm |
Components
The Blade
Like many lower-end “Viking” swords, the point of this sword is too acute, and the fuller a bit too short, for a classic Oakeshott Type X, but it’s not outside the historical range of blade designs (e.g., Geibig Type 3 or 4). Otherwise, the blade is competently rendered, with crisp lines and minimal rippling. There are clearly visible grind marks, but again, nothing a Scotch-Brite pad can’t handle. It shows reasonable distal taper from 4.6mm at the forte to 2.5mm 1” from the point.
Just a few ripples.
It lines up!
There is a distinct mid-ridge between the end of the fuller and the point, which isn’t properly historical, as it should have a lenticular cross-section, instead of the flattened-diamond-but-with-convex-edges it has.
The blade is sharpened with a strong secondary bevel. It is paper-cutting sharp out of the box, more or less, but the edge is “toothy” and inconsistent, sometimes tearing the paper after an initially-clean cut. I will be giving it a few pulls through the WorkSharp for sure, both to refine the edge and to round off the bevel a bit. It is worth noting that they left about 2” closest to the hilt unsharpened, but this isn’t necessarily a problem, especially if you want to finger the guard.
Sharp, but could definitely be sharper
The Handle
Another common issue with reproduction “Viking” swords is that the grips are often longer than the historical examples. In the case of the Honshu, the grip is 38”, which is shorter than many reproductions, but still on the longer side of the historical range. The grip is cord-wrapped and covered in brown…leather? It smells like leather, but feels kind of rubbery. It provides a secure grip, anyway, and looks good. Distinguishing it from its Baldur predecessor, it has a small riser halfway up.
The Guard
The guard is very simple with crisp lines. It has a deep channel to seat the blade, and is well-aligned with the blade edges. It measures 3.66" x 1" x 1".
The Pommel
The pommel is, as advertised, a classic Petersen Type H. It is appropriately big and chunky. It has crisp and consistent lines without uncomfortably sharp corners. There is no visible peen because, like historical examples, the pommel consists of two parts that are riveted together, concealing (I assume) the peen. There is a nice inlay of twisted copper wire wrapping around the junction between the pommel sections, and matching copper rivets visible on the underside. It measures 3.2" wide, 2.1" tall, and 1" thick.
Rivet...rivet....
The Scabbard
The scabbard is the most disappointing part of the sword, and is also where the Honshu version differs most from the Balaur model. The Balaur (based on the photos I’ve seen) has a simple, thick scabbard with a u-shaped chape and a wooden belt-loop doohickey (the technical term 😉). In contrast, the Honshu scabbard is thinner, has a triangular chape, rain flaps, and an integrated sword belt with tie straps (I think it’s what they call a “French tie”). From what I’ve gleaned from Tod's Workshop, this style is much more typical of the 13th-14th centuries than the Viking era, which is a bit disappointing. (I was pleasantly surprised that the belt is big enough to fit me!)
Anybody know how to tie this thing?
The integrated belt is made of thick, somewhat stiff leather, with the rough side visible, so it came from a cow.
The biggest issue is that scabbard fit is so poor that I wonder if they are repurposing the scabbard designed for a different model. There is definite rattle, and it will not hold the sword at all if tipped even slightly. Worst of all, the shape of the rain flaps is such that the guard rests a couple of inches above where the wood core starts. This also means the point of the sword barely reaches the top of the chape, leaving a bunch of empty space at the bottom. The design makes it very hard to add shims to inside of the mouth to tighten the fit, and I may end up slitting the sides of the rain flaps so the sword can slip deeper into the scabbard. ETA: I did slit the sides of the flaps, which allows the sword to sit fully in the scabbard, and a little felt tape has made it a much better fit.
It just doesn't fit.
And it's a minor nit-pick, but the highly-polished chape clashes with the matte finish of the hilt. More Scotch-Brite to come!
Handling Characteristics
I can’t speak too much to the handling, because I live in a tiny 1-room apartment in Flatbush and have nowhere I can swing it with abandon. However, it is well balanced and reasonably agile, albeit with a definite choppy blade-presence. My luggage scale shows it as about 4.8oz heavier (2.95lbs) than advertised (2.65lbs), and about 6oz heavier than the Balaur is listed on the KOA site (2.5oz), but it doesn’t feel over-heavy. (Honshu usually doesn’t list weights on its older models, but seem to be listening to customers with the Historic Forge line.) The point of balance, at 4.12”, is a bit closer to the hilt that KoA lists the Balaur, but far better than the 7” in the Erik Swordcrafts review (which may be a typo).
It is worth noting that many people have problems with this kind of pommel design because it can dig into your hand when you extend the wrist through a cut, but I found it comfortable enough once I choked back on the grip towards the pommel instead of the guard (per Matt Easton). And removed my watch, which I wear on the “wrong” hand because my eyes are weird.
Test Cutting
Sadly, I have no way to do any proper test cutting (and my form is lousy anyway, so it wouldn’t provide much useful data). The sword did make short work of the shipping box, and the tip tracks also well for thrusting, even if that’s not the primary purpose of this kind of sword.
Conclusions
Overall, this sword is fine for its price point. The only real competitors for Viking-Era swords at the under-$300 level are Ronin Katana (and off-brand clones from the same manufacturer), which got some good reviews, but the hilt just looks too long for my taste; Deepeeka, which honestly has a wonderful variety of historical designs, but a poor reputation for weight and handling; and (if you shop around and can find one) the Hanwei Tinker 9th Century Viking Sword. The latter was my second choice, and if I had to do it over, I might have gone with it instead. Not because there is anything particularly wrong with the Honshu, but nothing exceptional either.
Pros
- Good price
- Solid construction and a well-shaped blade
- Good handling
- Hilt furniture and grip are simple but show good fit and finish.
- Grip not over-long
Cons
- Insufficiently packed and protected
- Minor rust spots
- Blade profile could be more historical
- Scabbard is disappointing: poor fit, wrong period, maybe not real leather
- Secondary bevel with uneven sharpness
The Bottom Line
This is a perfectly adequate viking-era sword for the price. You don’t get more than you pay for, but you are not ripped off either. It’s a definite step in the right direction for United Cutlery and the Honshu line in terms of creating swords with more historical designs. If you’re looking for a sword of this type, you don’t want to spend the extra $100-300 for better choices, and you’re not worried if the scabbard isn’t period, it’s a good choice. If it were taking a class from me, I'd give it a solid B. (And my former students will tell you, I'm a tough grader.)
I know there is a UC rep on the forums sometimes, so if they see this, the first thing I would recommend changing is the scabbard. It's actually a pretty good scabbard for the price, but not for this sword. If you can't use the old Balaur design for some reason, so something like that. Or at least make it fit.
The second thing is to protect the sword better when it is being packaged, both from rust and from impact. Grease it up real good and splurge on some bubble wrap in the box.
Part of me hopes also Balaur will revive this design with an LK Chen blade, but I don't want to put more pressure on LK Chen than there already is.
