Cold Blueing Albion Hilt Furniture

Not specifically Albion, but I have done some. It should be possible on their mild steel fittings.

There are multiple solutions, in my experience the Birchwood Casey has the best surface finish. They will all be comparable, though some make a thinner oxide layer with every application so you need to redo it more often. There are also some gel type solutions, but I have no experience with them

Firstly BE SAFE, use gloves and do it in a ventilated room. These solutions use nasty stuff.
You need to make sure all oil is gone and the finish on the steel is what you want the blued part to be (the blueing will leave a bit rougher a finish than the clean steel, so if you want it to have a almost mirror shine, the steel needs to be mirror polished before hand).
After you have the finish you want and degreased and cleaned the piece (I would also put spme tape over leather and wood parts) you need something to apply the solution. Almost anything works, but smooth fabric worked best for me. You need the fabric to be wet, but not dripping and run it over the surface.
Here is one thing I wish I knew before: It shouldn't leave a wet surface, because if the applicator is too wet and leaves drops, you get a blotchy finish that doesn't look good. The steel should change colour immediately on contact with the applicator. Try to apply it as smoothly as possible, everywhere you go over twice will be a bit darker. Now, after putting on one layer let it sit a bit, the longer you let it, the darker it gets, though I rather put on multiple coats than letting it sit longer because the finish gets rougher the longer it sits.
Use water to wash off the blueing solution after a few minutes, then you need to oil it and rub it with an oily rag a bit to see how it looks. You only see how it will look after you oiled it and rubbed it a bit with a rag because the oxide layer forms unevenly and the rubbing gets rid of the loose material. Now either clean off the oil, go for another coat if it's not dark enough or leave it as is.

I had tried using cold bluing on my Crecy several times "both gel and liquid" and in every case, I was less then impressed with the final finish. Oddly enough, I used some berchwood casey bluing removal "came with the kit"...and actually left a very nice gray finish on the furniture. Just some food for thought.

If I wanted to just have blackened furniture that was pretty durable, I would probably mask off the blade/handle and use an air dry cerakote.

For my Stormbringer project I used Nigrit cold blueing solution (perhaps only available in Germany?) with a paint brush.
Project is paused due to lazyness in the moment.
sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/70502/andis-strombringer-project
It worked better on a blade which I tried to acid etch before and polished/sanded it again with grey Scotch Brits.
Also when I removed the first not satisfying blueing coat with Scotch Brits and tried again.
Several coating are usually necessary for a good look.
Several months are gone now and the coating seems to be relative stable.

Nice!

I taped off the blade and handle using painters tape. Then I cleaned the surface with acetone multiple times. I used Casey Birchwood SuperBlue and lightly applied it in the longest most constituent strokes possible using small foam brush. After one minute I wiped the blue off, and gently buffed it with a grey scotchbrite pad to even out the coating. I did this four times. The finish still did not look great, but I oiled it heavily with mineral oil and let it sit overnight. In the morning the finish looked perfectly uniform. I wiped the oil off and applied Ren wax. The finish has stayed stable for 2 days. I can update if it changes.

Yup, oil it!

Nigrit just blackens.