Jash
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"Igitur qui desiderat pacem, praeparet bellum!"
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Post by Jash on Dec 11, 2020 21:32:00 GMT
It looks like he got a better one than I did. Mine is pleasing enough to the eye, feels good to the hand, and balances like his. However, no ring and the blade appears a bit on the soft side. About 40 HRC and doesn’t hold an edge that well. These things were made by a number of people and I suppose the quality reflects it. As for full tang vs stick I suppose it’s largely a matter of preference. Most of mine are stick and both types have held up. In the final analysis the full tang should be stronger but the stick tang has proved to be more than strong enough. Most definitely. With the number that was brought over from Nepal, I'm sure the quality varied considerably. I've bought a few over the years, some are better than any Khukuri i've owned, while another has a cracked blade lol. Still, for the price, they're great pieces of bladed history!
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 11, 2020 22:21:37 GMT
Most definitely. With the number that was brought over from Nepal, I'm sure the quality varied considerably. I've bought a few over the years, some are better than any Khukuri i've owned, while another has a cracked blade lol. Still, for the price, they're great pieces of bladed history! The truth of the matter is that I bought them from a historical standpoint rather for use. I have read so much about the Gorkhas I wanted to see some of their history and know it firsthand. The metal softness raised a question in my mind as to if this was purposely done or just low grade work. The reason I say that is because in some third world countries the knives are made soft for easy maintenance in the field with a simple hand tool. I have a machete that was given to me shortly after arriving here. It was well used and showed some abuse. I used that machete long after I got better ones as the metal was soft and the blade easily repaired after a job even though it might have required a sharpening or two before the job was done. The edge has never chipped or rolled in spite that it gets all of the crappy jobs with ground strikes and it has hit many a rock and cement. As a comparison shortly after receiving a CS machete I used it to clean out a cement drainage line. I had been using the softer machete, and still do for that fact. It took close to an hour to restore the CS where it takes about 10 to 15 with the softer one.
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Jash
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Post by Jash on Dec 14, 2020 22:37:55 GMT
Most definitely. With the number that was brought over from Nepal, I'm sure the quality varied considerably. I've bought a few over the years, some are better than any Khukuri i've owned, while another has a cracked blade lol. Still, for the price, they're great pieces of bladed history! The truth of the matter is that I bought them from a historical standpoint rather for use. I have read so much about the Gorkhas I wanted to see some of their history and know it firsthand. The metal softness raised a question in my mind as to if this was purposely done or just low grade work. The reason I say that is because in some third world countries the knives are made soft for easy maintenance in the field with a simple hand tool. I have a machete that was given to me shortly after arriving here. It was well used and showed some abuse. I used that machete long after I got better ones as the metal was soft and the blade easily repaired after a job even though it might have required a sharpening or two before the job was done. The edge has never chipped or rolled in spite that it gets all of the crappy jobs with ground strikes and it has hit many a rock and cement. As a comparison shortly after receiving a CS machete I used it to clean out a cement drainage line. I had been using the softer machete, and still do for that fact. It took close to an hour to restore the CS where it takes about 10 to 15 with the softer one. That is a very good point. On a similar note, I recall reading that the stick tang was still popular well after the WWI and WWII models were issued which were using rivets / full tangs. The reason for this was, as you stated, ease of maintenance. Wood handles break, that's life, but it was easier for a soldier to repair a stick tang than a riveted full tang. I can't recall where i read that, but it always reminded me that newer isn't necessarily better lol. From personal experience - I used to work in a knife department for 5ish years. A lot of customers wanted the hardest knife, since they were usually more expensive, and thus better. However, they then had to take into consideration sharpening those harder steels lol.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Dec 14, 2020 23:06:43 GMT
That is a very good point. On a similar note, I recall reading that the stick tang was still popular well after the WWI and WWII models were issued which were using rivets / full tangs. The reason for this was, as you stated, ease of maintenance. Wood handles break, that's life, but it was easier for a soldier to repair a stick tang than a riveted full tang. I can't recall where i read that, but it always reminded me that newer isn't necessarily better lol. From personal experience - I used to work in a knife department for 5ish years. A lot of customers wanted the hardest knife, since they were usually more expensive, and thus better. However, they then had to take into consideration sharpening those harder steels lol. I found information today that confirms the wood handle on a stick tang was desirable for the ease of maintenance. It could be replaced in the field relatively easily. And the stick tang was preferred well after WWII. Here are two paragraphs from benjudkins. He has confirmed many facts that I had running around in my head as theories. “The partial tang handle, held in place with domestically produced glue, allowed the handle to flex slightly when chopping wood or doing other hard tasks. This provided a natural degree of shock absorption that protected hands and joints in an era without disability insurance. In fact, farmers in Nepal still prefer partial tang knives for the same reason today.” “The carbon content of a traditional kukri is low by modern standards. While the blade was differentially heat-treated to harden the edge it must be remembered that Nepalese troops did not have access to industrial grinders. If it became necessary to repair or sharpen a blade, this would happen in the field using a locally collected river stone. Under these condition the extremely hard blades preferred by many modern enthusiasts would be an absolute liability.” The hardness on my two antiques is about 40HRC.
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howler
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Post by howler on Dec 15, 2020 0:10:16 GMT
That is a very good point. On a similar note, I recall reading that the stick tang was still popular well after the WWI and WWII models were issued which were using rivets / full tangs. The reason for this was, as you stated, ease of maintenance. Wood handles break, that's life, but it was easier for a soldier to repair a stick tang than a riveted full tang. I can't recall where i read that, but it always reminded me that newer isn't necessarily better lol. From personal experience - I used to work in a knife department for 5ish years. A lot of customers wanted the hardest knife, since they were usually more expensive, and thus better. However, they then had to take into consideration sharpening those harder steels lol. I found information today that confirms the wood handle on a stick tang was desirable for the ease of maintenance. It could be replaced in the field relatively easily. And the stick tang was preferred well after WWII. Here are two paragraphs from benjudkins. He has confirmed many facts that I had running around in my head as theories. “The partial tang handle, held in place with domestically produced glue, allowed the handle to flex slightly when chopping wood or doing other hard tasks. This provided a natural degree of shock absorption that protected hands and joints in an era without disability insurance. In fact, farmers in Nepal still prefer partial tang knives for the same reason today.” “The carbon content of a traditional kukri is low by modern standards. While the blade was differentially heat-treated to harden the edge it must be remembered that Nepalese troops did not have access to industrial grinders. If it became necessary to repair or sharpen a blade, this would happen in the field using a locally collected river stone. Under these condition the extremely hard blades preferred by many modern enthusiasts would be an absolute liability.” The hardness on my two antiques is about 40HRC. Softer steel, particularly on the spine, can also give the blade more strength when used in hard chopping utility tasks. Differential tempering can give the best of both worlds, provided the edge isn't made too hard for easy field touch ups.
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Jash
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Post by Jash on Dec 18, 2020 22:14:45 GMT
I found information today that confirms the wood handle on a stick tang was desirable for the ease of maintenance. It could be replaced in the field relatively easily. And the stick tang was preferred well after WWII. Here are two paragraphs from benjudkins. He has confirmed many facts that I had running around in my head as theories. “The partial tang handle, held in place with domestically produced glue, allowed the handle to flex slightly when chopping wood or doing other hard tasks. This provided a natural degree of shock absorption that protected hands and joints in an era without disability insurance. In fact, farmers in Nepal still prefer partial tang knives for the same reason today.” “The carbon content of a traditional kukri is low by modern standards. While the blade was differentially heat-treated to harden the edge it must be remembered that Nepalese troops did not have access to industrial grinders. If it became necessary to repair or sharpen a blade, this would happen in the field using a locally collected river stone. Under these condition the extremely hard blades preferred by many modern enthusiasts would be an absolute liability.” The hardness on my two antiques is about 40HRC. Softer steel, particularly on the spine, can also give the blade more strength when used in hard chopping utility tasks. Differential tempering can give the best of both worlds, provided the edge isn't made too hard for easy field touch ups. pgandy - yup! That's what I read! howler - interesting that you mention the differential tempering. I ordered some khukuris from Khukuri House Thamel, and on their website it states: "Hi carbon tempered steel blade, steel hardness- spine=22-25 RC, belly=45-46 RC, edge=54-55 RC,"
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 2, 2021 21:17:10 GMT
I'll do that - though it won't be soon. I just bought that Aislinn bastard prototype (separate thread). Wiped out this month's new toys budget. Now I just bought the production model that that prototype evoked. It's finally available. Old thread, I know. I've come a ways on this little sword obsession journey. I have not bought anymore khukuri's since this thread. When I do, it will be a a stick-tang "killer". Not a useful flexible tool or machete for cooking or camp work. But more of a dedicated weapon. It'll be stick-tang.
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Post by Simpleman on Jul 3, 2021 22:12:10 GMT
Old thread, I know. I've come a ways on this little sword obsession journey. I have not bought anymore khukuri's since this thread. When I do, it will be a a stick-tang "killer". Not a useful flexible tool or machete for cooking or camp work. But more of a dedicated weapon. It'll be stick-tang. Sure old thread, but always a discussion that comes up. It seems that you have made up your mind, I would say that its much a matter of taste, some wouldnt trust anything then fulltang, I on the other hand cant se any reason for using it. It just have no strong enough reason. Fulltang for me are for replicas, so you want an MK2-4. Well then fulltang it is. For everything else, sticktang. If you would like to have sticktang but want something else then wood, some nowdays use micarta. That however doesnt feel as lively in the hand. And of course there is metal handles sticktangs but thats something deifferent. Wood handle and sticktang, while perhaps not for everyone is my choice pretty much, always.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2021 22:52:53 GMT
My choice for my next kukri is a GGH or Kailash Sirupate stick-tang.
I have enough kukris now to see and leverage the multi-function usefulness. Weapon/tool/kitchen utensil. They function admirably in all respects. Great multi-function blade.
I want the next one to be a dedicated weapon. I'm a US army veteran. Screw a bayonet. If I have to go back and relive those years, I'd prefer a kukri on my belt, more than a gas mask.
Now that I'm out of the service, I can collect what I want. The next one will be a hand-forged traditional Sirupate kukri from Nepal.
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Post by Lord Newport on Jul 3, 2021 22:57:12 GMT
Seeking advice. I've read 2) rat tail is traditional, lighter, more forgiving when whacking stuff.Anyone have first hand experience? Advice? I'm torn. Can only afford one. Cant make this stuff up...and with 670 posts to his credit...
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2021 23:19:07 GMT
I never claimed to be smart. I prove it on a daily basis.
You however, Lord Newport, are someone I respect.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2021 23:38:44 GMT
Seeking advice. I've read 2) rat tail is traditional, lighter, more forgiving when whacking stuff.Anyone have first hand experience? Advice? I'm torn. Can only afford one. Cant make this stuff up...and with 670 posts to his credit... I think he means forgiving in terms of shock transfer, not in terms of durability
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Post by Deleted on Jul 3, 2021 23:41:55 GMT
I don't understand.
I've already got durability. My existing kukri's are tools. Good ones. But my next one I want to be more dedicated to "artistic killing instruments". Not that I'll ever use them, but that's what I want next.
Why is that desire so laughable?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2021 20:06:06 GMT
I'm waiting for an explanation. Lord Newport.
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Post by sebastian on Jul 4, 2021 20:11:00 GMT
I don't know I kinda like rat tail khukuri since they tend to be lighter and suit my uses in hiking with some general work.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2021 20:25:14 GMT
I agree. My two existing kukris are non-traditional, full tang. Kinda half a knife, kinda half a machete, kinda half a kitchen knife. Good versatility for kitchen/camping/hunting/defending. Good thing to have while going survivalist. Maybe best thing to have.
But for my next one, I want rat-tail traditional Nepalese. A 15" killer. A sirupate with limited applications - but damned good at that one application of killing.
When I was in the service, I always hated that damn gas mask on my belt. It left scars created by rubbing against my skin. I'd rather have had a GGH sirupate kukri in that spot.
I mean if you're gonna get gassed, maybe you'll live a few more seconds, or a few more minutes, or a few more hours by using that mask or that needle to stick into your leg. But it won't make much difference long term. If they're willing to gas you, they'll gas you again. And you'll still die a day or two later. So what's the point of carrying that schitt around?
I'd prefer to replace that piece of MOPP gear with a GGH sirupate kukri.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2021 23:19:13 GMT
I've owned two rat tail Kukri, and about three full tang. I'm always willing to have that extra weight for durability, but I must admit my rat tails were really nice in the hand. Felt more like a knife and less like a hatchet
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Post by sebastian on Jul 5, 2021 0:39:00 GMT
I tend to really only get Rat tail ones since it does help out and my short stature self prefers a lighter blade overall. Yes, a full tang kukri can be awesome if made correctly. If it is just a sharpened crowbar, it loses some of its use to my eyes. Since you have to carry it around. Thus, for full tang balance is key. If the full tang kukri is has proper balance it is a great tool.
A rat-tail is often times more balanced and is faster in my hands personally. It is a large knife but can serve as a psuedo hatchet if need be. But what I love about it is its basic weight and usability at all times. Since, I believe all kukris can be survivor tools.
I recommend GGH of course but don't keep them as your sole producer even KHHI is also good. But my personal favorite is Blue Dragonfly khukuri and knives.
(Also PS I get the mask part, the masks can be a bit annoying.)
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Post by Deleted on Jul 5, 2021 0:56:59 GMT
My EGKH has a tapered tang, it's pretty cool. It's super thick at the spine "point/corner" where it dips down. It turns of a lot of other owners, but it's balanced, and I like it. It's small but it hits hard. It would make an excellent tool
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Post by sebastian on Jul 5, 2021 1:03:31 GMT
My EGKH has a tapered tang, it's pretty cool. It's super thick at the spine "point/corner" where it dips down. It turns of a lot of other owners, but it's balanced, and I like it. It's small but it hits hard. It would make an excellent tool If it is balanced it works. I have a Chindit knife from Madras Arsenal. It is close to the size of a sword but due to its balance doesn't feel as heavy in the hand and you can use it all day. I chopped a Christmas Tree with the knife. I need to make a sheath for it as well.
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