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Post by unistat76 on Jul 27, 2020 12:45:58 GMT
I sometimes use the bottom of a ceramic cup. It works quite well. Me too. You're not going to reprofile the edge, but is works quite well for touch ups. My co-workers gave me some funny looks, but after I explained, they all handed over their knives, lol.
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Post by MOK on Jul 27, 2020 14:15:46 GMT
I sometimes use the bottom of a ceramic cup. It works quite well. Me too. You're not going to reprofile the edge, but is works quite well for touch ups. My co-workers gave me some funny looks, but after I explained, they all handed over their knives, lol. Yeah, that unglazed ring is just about as good as any ceramic abrasive. Plus you know that the bottom of a mug is as close to flat as makes no difference.
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harrybeck
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Post by harrybeck on Jul 27, 2020 17:49:51 GMT
Yeah guys, exactly right.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jul 27, 2020 20:35:19 GMT
With toilet tank lids sword size Plates are a great trick at dinners needing carving. I do hope the coffee drinkers are drinking the coffee first Cheers GC
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Post by unistat76 on Jul 28, 2020 14:06:27 GMT
With toilet tank lids sword size ;) Plates are a great trick at dinners needing carving. I do hope the coffee drinkers are drinking the coffee first :D Cheers GC Rofl!
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Scott
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Post by Scott on Jul 30, 2020 1:31:35 GMT
So I tried this. I sharpened a pocket knife that was blunt on a bit of stone, the stone in question being a piece of shale I'd picked up at work a while back to try making a sharpening stone with. I didn't carefully select the piece, I just picked a couple of bits up that weren't too big because I had to carry them around for the rest of the shift. Test cutting was performed on a random box pulled from the recycling bin. This is before sharpening. . _ This is after This is the stone I used. There's a bit of wear along the edge from the sharpening. I didn't wet the stone as there wasn't a flat side for a slurry to sit on, and while the edge may be a little rough it's slicing nicely now.
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Post by usato on Feb 4, 2022 17:50:30 GMT
I apologize if I reopen the perhaps old discussion, but at this point I wonder which "pocket" stone you could buy. Not only to straighten the edge, for that everything is fine like a broken ceramic, I mean precisely to sharpen a tired blade, perhaps after a collision. I think a small file is a good start, but maybe a 400/600 or 1000 stone would do its job. Which one would you buy if you were a lone swordsman fighter, without relying on large stones in your home or village? I was thinking of the Fallkniven, but perhaps it is too small and uncomfortable. It's already awkward for knives, let alone a long double-edged sword. remember that the blades are well tempered, so a small and inefficient stone tickles him. Any ideas?
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Post by unistat76 on Feb 4, 2022 19:04:01 GMT
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Post by leed on Feb 4, 2022 21:36:22 GMT
The rock is used only if other options are not available. Of course...course, med, fine, extra fine, and light pressure extra fine with lube is preferred over one chunk of lava rock.
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Post by usato on Feb 5, 2022 10:41:14 GMT
yes ok, but being able to buy a whetstone which would you choose and which grit? Whereas a sword must have good cutting ability to be offensive, but certainly not for tatami cutting competitions. I believe 1000 grit would be a good target, but even 400 grit a sword cuts flesh or clothing well.
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Post by unistat76 on Feb 5, 2022 14:28:23 GMT
The Lansky Puck I linked above (or other similar stone) is definitely for field sharpening.
You will get a working edge, but it won't be fantastically sharp, nor will it be "pretty."
If you care about mirror polishes and scratches, well, I'm afraid field sharpening is going to dissapoint.
FWIW, I don't have or claim to have a great deal of sword sharpening experience. All of my sharoening is on knives, machetes, axes, and exactly one (1) sword.
I have done mirror finish bevels and what not, but I mostly put a shaving edge on my working tools and call it done. I don't really have a "display" collection, just a bunch of users.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 5, 2022 15:03:11 GMT
No need to apologize for reopening an old thread, more often than not they don’t go stale and there’s a lot of information to be had from them. Your question has too many unknown variables for me to offer a precise opinion. Not knowing more than I do I’d say a file would be a good choice. It certainly is in my country. It is common to see a working man carrying a file along with his machete. I’ve watched them cut a bit then file and then repeat the process. I could give other examples of other processes. As I said there are many variables. As for me I sharpen indoors at home after the job is done and that is usually with a machete. When using a kukri I use mostly a chakmak. It works by realigning the edge not removing metal and can be done in the field. When the time comes I use a ceramic rod. I’ve never damaged a kukri beyond that point although the initial sharpening was probably done on a belt sander or simply with sandpaper.
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Post by usato on Feb 5, 2022 16:24:31 GMT
unistat76The grit of the lansky should be 120/280, don't you think it's too coarse? Maybe a 200/400 or 200/600 or even 200/800 would be better. The ideal would be to cut a piece of a bench stone, but I wouldn't dare cut one of mine. There is also the method of sharpening with such small stones to consider. I don't think it is a good idea to rub it along the entire length of the blade like in the movies or make circles with the stone, but to make small passes every 2-3cm at 45 degrees (or something similar). pgandy I bought a round ceramic stick about 20cm long, and I think that in case you need to realign the edge it is fine, but a small whetstone to remove metal beyond the file would be necessary. Of course it takes a lot of courage to pass a file on an expensive sword without crying, but in case of survival I believe that file, a small stone and ceramic stick are essential. It must also be considered that I find it useless to sharpen the whole blade to a mirror, but possibly only the tip part (last 20-30cm). Here comes the question: What small stone or stones can do this? Small file for big damage, small 200 grit whetstone for the whole sword and small combined 1000/6000 grit whetstone for the tip?
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Post by usato on Feb 5, 2022 18:16:46 GMT
ADD:
I just did some tests on an unimportant blade and took screenshots with a microscope, then tried paper cutting. I noticed that with a 220 grit, the blade already cuts the paper very well and bites the finger. So perhaps a file and a whetstone are enough to sharpen agricultural tools, as unistat76 said. Of course it has no shine and it's not a laser, but I think it's more than enough in a fight. If only I could find a piece of stone 800 or 1000 grit I would be happier, but I don't want to cut my good stones.
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Post by usato on Feb 6, 2022 15:57:08 GMT
I'm trying to figure out how to make a sandpaper block that keeps the sandpaper flat and isn't heavy or thick as a brick, but still portable. This would solve all the problems. Anyone here know a useful way? On youtube I only found garbage that is good for the garage or carpentry work, but not that keeps the sandpaper well stretched and small in size.
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Post by pellius on Feb 6, 2022 16:46:39 GMT
You can take a strip of sandpaper and roll it up, abrasive out. The roll can be as tight/rigid as needed. Unroll as the paper is used, then re-roll from the other end when you get about halfway thru the roll. It makes an edge so sharp you won’t know it cut you until you see the blood. Also, about as portable as you can get. Credit Uhlan: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/52806/antique-blades-pelliuss-cleaning-threads
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Post by usato on Feb 6, 2022 17:08:53 GMT
You can take a strip of sandpaper and roll it up, abrasive out. The roll can be as tight/rigid as needed. Unroll as the paper is used, then re-roll from the other end when you get about halfway thru the roll. It makes an edge so sharp you won’t know it cut you until you see the blood. Also, about as portable as you can get. Credit Uhlan: sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/thread/52806/antique-blades-pelliuss-cleaning-threadsI'm sure such small or coiled pieces to polish the blade are fine, but to sharpen the edge I don't know if they're a good idea. You would be forced to make passes all along the blade. Have you ever seen a sharp blade running lengthwise under the microscope? Create indentations that you don't want to see. You can also feel them on the nail. I hope I have explained well because I am not a native English speaker, but I use a translator. If you want to post photos of the difference between swiping the stone or sandpaper along the entire blade and making transverse passes like on a bench stone, but I think you already know the difference.
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Post by leed on Feb 6, 2022 17:11:13 GMT
Rocks are not used to polish your show pieces. Rocks can be used out in the field in life or death situations when nothing else is available. A selection of river rocks is a bonus.
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Post by usato on Feb 6, 2022 17:17:15 GMT
Rocks are not used to polish your show pieces. Rocks can be used out in the field in life or death situations when nothing else is available. A selection of river rocks is a bonus. You have all the reasons and my approval, but today that I am not in a life or death situation, I cry at the mere thought of standing a stone on a € 1000 or even € 500 blade. I would prefer to think in advance of a solution that would prevent me from crawling a stone on my sword that day. After all, we are in 2022, not in 1200 or earlier. In my opinion, sandpaper is the way to go in case of extreme need. Little weight and you don't have to flatten like whetstone. The only drawback is how to make it stay really flat on the holder to use as a file with one hand, while holding the sword with the other.
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Post by Simpleman on Feb 6, 2022 17:25:10 GMT
Stones works great.
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