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Post by Dan Davis on Aug 8, 2008 1:50:08 GMT
DS, In another thread I posted the following advice re. EN45 and manganese: The same advice can be applied to any steel from Admiral; their mills tend to use a fairly high manganese content. Nothing wrong with the formulation, you just have to compensate for it.
BTW, you just need to keep working on the blade. It may be that I have been looking at blades being polished for a long time, but I can clearly see the hamon in that pic you posted. All you need to do is bring it out.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 8, 2008 1:59:35 GMT
wow yes my untrained eyes i don't see a thing. but thats cool that i got a hamon I'm about to etch using your technique. the only thing is that i don't have and cant find anything in between 1000 and 2000. can i just use the 2000 to clean it up?
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Post by Dan Davis on Aug 8, 2008 12:28:57 GMT
when you clean up the piece using 1000 grit overuse a small piece so it becomes dull and overloaded with debris. Then use that piece again between 1000 and 2000. I get 1200 and 1500 grit from my local auto store (NOT autozone or O'reilly's, a real auto store) but you can order it from Texas Knifemaker's Supply (ask for Lance and tell him I sent ya) or from Jantz Supply (ask for Terry, tell her I sent ya).
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Aug 8, 2008 13:14:51 GMT
Autobody paint shops usually stock some really useful types of abrasives that could be of use to you.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2008 3:35:58 GMT
well i finally got around to etching it and man its a very interesting hamon. its like a hamon insides another hamon, but no matter how many times i try i just cant get it to show up in a pic... im gunna try to get a pic in the sunlight tomorrow.
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Post by randomnobody on Aug 23, 2008 3:54:23 GMT
Sounds interesting, can't wait to see it.
Were you able to confirm the cracking? Either visibly or by any other testing?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2008 4:11:36 GMT
Reflect black in the blade at the camera with no direct light.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2008 4:18:31 GMT
well no.... not really, i thought i saw something in the first etch but it hasnt reared it ugly head since.
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slav
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Post by slav on Aug 23, 2008 6:01:08 GMT
If you want to check out the hamon, just wipe it with Ferric Chloride etchant (from RadioShack). There will be no mistaking it if you use that stuff.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2008 6:49:26 GMT
oh no i know for a fact i have not one but 2! its just getting it to show up in a pic... i have found that using sunlight and no flash makes for a very clear picture.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 23, 2008 15:25:09 GMT
well this is the best i can do for now. u can see the pronounced one going from near the edge to the spine and then u can kinda see a very subtle hamon under it running the width of the blade.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Aug 23, 2008 21:57:03 GMT
Interesting how you ended up with two different regions.
So where are the cracks? How bad are they? Are you SURE the blade isnt saveable?
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2008 0:43:18 GMT
the clay will always make it's line, but if it wasn't applied properly or it popped off in a few spots the hardness will go where it wants, hence the double hamon.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2008 1:07:14 GMT
lol that may be but i still think it looks sexy.
well it IS warped but i dont see any cracks (with my untrained eyes). it isnt sharp but i think i can still put an edge on it with my stone.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2008 1:22:43 GMT
I never said it didn't but OK.
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slav
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Post by slav on Aug 24, 2008 3:12:17 GMT
Looks like the higher "hamon" was created by the surface of the water when you quenched the blade.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2008 5:28:11 GMT
slav, u dont think its real?
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slav
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Post by slav on Aug 24, 2008 10:10:42 GMT
What do you mean "I don't think it's real"? Of course I think it's real. This is the exact manner in which Kris Cutlery create the hamons on their blades. They don't even use clay....just a partial quench. And their hamons look a lot like the higher angled hamon on your blade.
And then there's the hamon that follows the edge, which is both real and "traditional"ly done.
So yeah they're both real, but created two different ways.
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Post by Dan Davis on Aug 24, 2008 12:41:43 GMT
Slav is correct in his assessment, which tells me that you had far too high a temperature before quenching the blade.
If there was enough residual heat to make that strong a hamon, you must have had at least 75-100F superheat on the steel. That's way too high for 1085, you really need an interrupted quench in thhat situation.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 24, 2008 13:55:13 GMT
sorry slav no offence intended. u just had it in quotes to me it soundled like u were saying something like..... this so called "hamon"
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