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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 0:52:22 GMT
Here is a knife I finished up today! On a roll:thumbup:! Steel: W1 from Aldo (thanks again Aldo!) quenched in BRINE (woo scary:eek:) Handle: Amboyna burl scales (thanks again Mike!), 3 brass pins Length: 10 11/16ths overall Blade: 7 1/16th Handle: 3 5/8ths Taper: a hair over 1/4 thick at the butt, down to 1/8th at the tip POB: right in front of the handle Fit and finish: Satin finish on the blade, handle sanded to 400 grit then scotch brited then boiled linseed oiled, a few scratches here and there, SHARP. Overall impression: A bit miffed the handle is short, not unusable short you can still get a full grip on it no problem, but would have been nice to have atleast another 1/2 inch. Other than that VERY happy with how it turned out, did I mention SHARP??!? Comments and critique welcome! IS THIS THE END OF THE NON-FINISHER!?!?! TUNE IN NEXT TIME FOR THE EXCITING CONCLUSION!!!!!!!!!
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 0:56:42 GMT
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Post by alvin on Jul 15, 2008 0:58:13 GMT
Sam..ANOTHER beautiful piece!! The scales are fantastic, the satin finish is perfect, well heck, the whole darn thing is great!! The blade shape reminds me of something that I've seen before..Nordic maybe?
Great job!!!!
PS...I think that a 7 inch blade is about right for a fighter/utility knife.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 1:31:34 GMT
is that a chip or just part of the design?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 1:39:59 GMT
That is the notch to mark the end of the sharp edge.
THANKS Alvin! Now you mention it, I can't remember exactly but I might have seen a seax with a similar style blade shape.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 10:32:56 GMT
Is quenching in brine more dangerous than in water?
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jul 15, 2008 16:56:10 GMT
It is more risky for higher carbon steels such as the steel used. All the same, W1 and W2 are water hardening steels. Faint heart never won a lady! I recently quenched a project blade made from an old file (pics to come when it is done) in water, and I thought THAT was brave! Gorgeous knife, Sam. I have three projects on the way and none of them are any where near as good looking as that one you've got there. I wish was skilled with a belt grinder
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jul 15, 2008 18:04:51 GMT
Although, both Jim Hrisoulas AND David boye in their books strongly recommend an oil quench for W1 as they both argue that it is prone to cracking and warpage. Brine is definitely a brave choice!
Is their opinion unfounded?
What made you use an agressive quench with a steel like W1?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 18:47:18 GMT
really? i have used brine for most of my blades and it seems to work better than water for me
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jul 15, 2008 20:00:30 GMT
What steel are you using?
OBVIOUSLY, if you are using a higher carbon steel then more agressive quenching mediums are more risky, as higher carbon steels are more sensitive with regards to internal stresses, and so are more likely to warp or crack. Warping and cracking is also easier to avoid if you forge/grind evenly and carfully and normalise well. All the same, agressive quenching mediums are as a general rule better used with more moderate carbon steel.
If you are using moderate carbon steels such as those found in leaf springs (40-60 points of carbon) then of course brine will be an acceptable medium, as the low amount of carbon will mean that the steel is relatively insensitive to rough quenching mediums, and will better harden with a faster acting quench.
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Post by Dan Davis on Jul 15, 2008 22:49:20 GMT
It also matters how you quench and what your timing is. If you are doing an interrupted quench using brine you go in and out faster than with plain water and you hold a couple of seconds long before re-quenching. You have to practice with your medium of choice and be prepared to break a few blades before you get the timing down.
Sam, nice looking piece and very reminiscent of a later-period scramasax.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 22:58:14 GMT
i use 1075
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 23:45:43 GMT
It is more risky for higher carbon steels such as the steel used. All the same, W1 and W2 are water hardening steels. Faint heart never won a lady! I recently quenched a project blade made from an old file (pics to come when it is done) in water, and I thought THAT was brave! Gorgeous knife, Sam. I have three projects on the way and none of them are any where near as good looking as that one you've got there. I wish was skilled with a belt grinder Definately not for the faint of heart! Though once you have done it a few times it is not too bad (by few times I mean ALOT). Matt, no worries everyone starts somewhere, i will refrain from posting my early on works hehe. Skill is not really the word I would use for my grinding hehe, more like sweating and fretting that I don't blow the whole thing on one quick second. It makes things alot, ALOT easier, but it takes alot of practice to do good. Although, both Jim Hrisoulas AND David boye in their books strongly recommend an oil quench for W1 as they both argue that it is prone to cracking and warpage. Brine is definitely a brave choice! Is their opinion unfounded? What made you use an agressive quench with a steel like W1? It all depends on what oil they are talking about. If they are talking about an actual quenching oil like Houghton Houghto-Quench K or Park's#50, then yes those oils are made for fast shallow hardening steels like the 10XX or W1 or W2 then yes that is THE very best quenches you can use, over anything else. They are specifically designed to cool fast when the steel goes in, then as it gets past the pearlite nose of the TTT diagram, it goes much slower, exactly how steel should be cooled to form the good stuff (martensite) with out any pearlite left and with as little stress as possible. If not then the only way to successfully harden more than 1/4 inch of the edge on a knife made from a shallow hardening steel when faced only with a cooking oil or motor oil I feel the risk of water/brine is more than worth it. Thanks Dan. Where do you get it? You are in Sweden yes?
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Post by Deleted on Jul 15, 2008 23:59:51 GMT
admiral steel, they advertise as being 1075-1080... im in the US (if that was a joke i missed it)
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Post by Deleted on Jul 16, 2008 0:10:10 GMT
Oops I musta been thinking of someon else.
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jul 16, 2008 16:26:27 GMT
Yeah I know what you mean about belt grinding. Sweating and fretting is right. I came along with my nice new belt grinder thinking "oh this looks sooo easy" then promptly got a rude awakening when I ground a nasty great groove in the blade! Thankfully, it was fixable.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 0:42:20 GMT
still wondering why you opted against the finger guard.
jason
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 1:54:57 GMT
I didn't opt either way hehe, I didn't plan ahead really at all with this knife.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 18, 2008 14:54:28 GMT
ah, that's groovy. i still think it's hot.
jason
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Post by Matt993f.o.d on Jul 18, 2008 16:14:30 GMT
I'm rubbish at planning. I usually end up with a general shape in mind, and then just create it, trying to avoid set dimensions.
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