pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 18, 2019 0:23:29 GMT
Thanks for the heads up. I feel like I would make the exact same mistake haha. Have you sparred a lot? I had executed the move successfully countless, but that one time...Ouch!
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Feb 18, 2019 1:11:35 GMT
Thanks for the heads up. I feel like I would make the exact same mistake haha. Have you sparred a lot? I had executed the move successfully countless, but that one time...Ouch! Is it easy for an opponent to hit the Buckler forearm?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 18, 2019 2:17:12 GMT
It’s not all that easy. A buckler works largely on triangulation. It can be done but to say easy, not really. I know what you mean by not wanting to dent your buckler; I’m that way with all my equipment. Having said that think of the psychological effect if SHTF if you show up with a few dents here and there, and faded clothing, like you’ve been down that road before rather showing up appearing immaculate with everything spit shinny and in factory fresh clothing. Just a passing thought.
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Feb 18, 2019 2:42:53 GMT
It’s not all that easy. A buckler works largely on triangulation. It can be done but to say easy, not really. I know what you mean by not wanting to dent your buckler; I’m that way with all my equipment. Having said that think of the psychological effect if SHTF if you show up with a few dents here and there, and faded clothing, like you’ve been down that road before rather showing up appearing immaculate with everything spit shinny and in factory fresh clothing. Just a passing thought. True enough. A guy with fresh equipment would only make him look like he hasn't used them much. And from what I'm learning, my bracer would be best on my right arm, as sword arms seem to be easier targets than buckler arms
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Post by Jordan Williams on Feb 18, 2019 2:49:16 GMT
I had executed the move successfully countless, but that one time...Ouch! Is it easy for an opponent to hit the Buckler forearm? Yeah, It's pretty hard and also as far as I have seen it's not a usual target, Especially when legs, sword arm, and head are far more exposed.
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Feb 18, 2019 17:05:44 GMT
I spar weekly for about 1.5 hours. I swap between buckler, and larger round shield, but probably have 100 hours into this buckler with only cosmetic damage. (scuffs etc) So all in all, a great cheap tool to learn with, and it gives you time to figure out what you actually want before dropping 100.00+ on a nice steel one.
IMO, a thing I look for in a buckler, is the handle, I want something more like what cold steel does rather than the rivetted ones like the Windlass blackened one. I've seen those crumple in how hard we play.
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Feb 18, 2019 18:58:04 GMT
I spar weekly for about 1.5 hours. I swap between buckler, and larger round shield, but probably have 100 hours into this buckler with only cosmetic damage. (scuffs etc) So all in all, a great cheap tool to learn with, and it gives you time to figure out what you actually want before dropping 100.00+ on a nice steel one. IMO, a thing I look for in a buckler, is the handle, I want something more like what cold steel does rather than the rivetted ones like the Windlass blackened one. I've seen those crumple in how hard we play. Does this include the GDFB ones too?
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 18, 2019 19:14:40 GMT
My buckler is GDFB’s 12” fluted model. I really hadn’t thought of the grip that much, probably because I find it comfortable and use as is. However, normally I don’t like bare metal in my hand and frequently wrap with tape. My favourite is rescue tape as it contains no adhesive and is quite thin and forms well over ridges. The only modification I’ve made is to attach a leather band that allows me to attach it to whatever and if I need the hand free I can let go and with a flip of the wrist have it back again. The handle is riveted on and I haven’t had any problems but I don’t play extremely hard. If a problem should occur I would pop the rivets and switch to nuts and bolts with a generous size washer.
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
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Post by Ifrit on Feb 18, 2019 19:17:35 GMT
I've been planning on covering mine with tape as well. I dislike touching bare carbon steel cause it needs to be cleaned after or it will rust. Too much of a hassle when it's something you might handle often
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Post by Sir Thorfinn on Feb 21, 2019 2:30:11 GMT
I actually have been considering a GDFB buckler like yours. (I saw yours in the ,mall ninja post) One of our locals let me borrow hers for a few passes, and I really liked it. Great buckler, and really sturdy. Not sure how the leather front will hold up under crazy wear, but...who cares, replace the leather. ANd FYI...the leather helps keep the damn thing from ringing like a gong...Bet ya didn't know that
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Feb 21, 2019 22:21:54 GMT
Sir: I feel like the buckler is very sturdy too. Worse comes to worse and the handle breaks, I am sure it would be easy to fix. Even a no tool guy like me could make a wooden handle and bolt it on
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Feb 22, 2019 2:47:08 GMT
. ANd FYI...the leather helps keep the damn thing from ringing like a gong...Bet ya didn't know that :) My interest in the leather just picked up. I was afraid of condensation getting between the leather and metal and considered the leather as decoration. Thanks.
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Ifrit
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Post by Ifrit on Feb 24, 2019 8:05:08 GMT
Gotta say. For the maneuvers required in arming sword and Buckler, I get why people make wooden small ones now
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Post by markus313 on Mar 13, 2019 16:32:54 GMT
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Post by Cosmoline on Mar 13, 2019 18:55:46 GMT
But the reason for this post is to alert you to something I found the hard way, but fortunately in this case the wound was superficial from a glancing blow and healed in about a week. I was practicing the 1.33 drill and was using ward #1 wearing a T shirt and using a live blade. I didn’t synchronize the arms correctly and clipped my elbow with the blade. I now wear my light gambeson when doing such things. Just a heads up. It's the sword equivalent of Garand Thumb or even Ljungman Tumb if you're going fast enough. The key I've found is to keep the elbow tucked in with the sword angling slightly away from the body a la nebenhut. So I do not actually put the sword in my armpit. Instead the blade is *below* the arm and angling away from the body. This means if it's rotated up it swings past the arm and buckler, not into the elbow. To me this makes more martial sense as it allows a direct overbind. And it links the position firmly with later systems. Whether it's correct or not is debatable, since period art does sometimes show swords truly tucked under the arm. But I value my skin! I've gone to prima this way many thousands of times, so I can attest to the fact that it works to keep skin intact.
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Post by Cosmoline on Mar 13, 2019 19:01:51 GMT
Re. bucklers we use awesome leather ones made from layers of leather treated with hot wax. They are extremely tough but have no clanging. And the shape allows for a very tight contact that resists splitting attempts.
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Post by Jordan Williams on Mar 14, 2019 5:16:54 GMT
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Post by zabazagobo on Mar 14, 2019 5:44:01 GMT
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Post by Cosmoline on Mar 14, 2019 17:34:58 GMT
LOL Hey you need filth for the wattle and daub!
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Ifrit
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More edgy than a double edge sword
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Post by Ifrit on Mar 30, 2019 7:13:14 GMT
If you wanted to strike someone's buckler arm, how would you do it?
Also I just remembered how much of this thread I unintentionally neglected. I meant to reply. Just keep being busy
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