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Post by 28shadow on Dec 20, 2018 0:51:10 GMT
I'm fairly sure there was a historical precedent for it, but does anyone know anything about shortening cavalry sabers to be of infantry blade length?
I'm fairly sure there's been a few threads about modifying the Windlass 1860 but can't seem to find many.
I have a Windlass 1840 that (in my opinion) handles like a brick, though I myself prefer lighter feeling swords (as do most, I would imagine). I think I would like the sword quite a bit more if the blade were around 30" - 32". Basically just an inch or two above where the fuller ends.
If anyone has attempted this on their various swords or sabers I'd love to hear about it.
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Post by Dave Kelly on Dec 20, 2018 11:35:03 GMT
Think, by discription you're talking about the Cold Steel 1860 (which is actually the Ames 1840 ).
Rather than turning a cavalry saber into an infantry saber, consider tapering the whole foible back so as to move the pob back 2 inches. The intent of the original was to copy the handling characteristics of the French type 1 version of the 1822 French light cav saber. Trust me the original was plenty crisp in it's handling.
Unless you're good at milling, might just want to talk to Craig Johnson at A&A and see what he would charge for a retaper. (8 years ago he did a Brit '96 for 400.00.)
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Post by MOK on Dec 20, 2018 15:05:15 GMT
Sure there's precedent. For one example, quoting myself from an older thread: That said, I'd agree with Dave; the biggest single problem with modern reproductions is typically a lack or outright absence of distal taper. Addressing that would be a better starting place for improvement, as a blade lacking in this aspect won't feel particularly good no matter how short you make it. Now, speaking from personal experience, depending on the blade's hardness and heat treatment in general, increasing the distal taper can be done surprisingly easily at home, with simple draw filing. It's not rocket science, you just have to have patience and a solid idea of what exactly you're aiming for in terms of both geometry and handling... Although I wouldn't recommend it unless you know at least vaguely what you're doing, as it's a fair bit of relentlessly repetitive yet attention-demanding work, and if you snooze you might cut yourself quite badly (I would absolutely recommend cut-resistant gloves, and a long file).
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