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Post by elbrittania39 on Mar 12, 2018 0:59:26 GMT
I just got my CS English Basksword from KOA. I had originally planned to re purpose the blade and scabbard as part of a project, but upon closer looks and some more measuring, I dont think that will work. Or rather, it could, but only with more effort and time then I'm willing to put in.
The sword is pretty nice for its price point. I looks and handles quite well, with a dramatic distal taper compared to similarly priced swords. It favors the thrust over the cut, which has thrown me off a little since I've practiced with so many sabers lately. The scabbard is very nice considering it doesnt have a wood core. The leather is thick and strong enough to support its own weight. The grip is rayskin, and while I'm not the biggest fan of the sandpaper feeling rayskin has, this is the least abrasive out out of the three rayskin gripped swords I've held before. The grip is far too long however, I could two hand this sword if I really wanted too, which is just silly for a basket hilt. The sword came sharpened by CS and has a very underwhelming edge. Its a start, but it would take some work before it would be good to cut.
I'm debating whether or nor to keep this sword. I can't use it for my original purpose, but its not bad as it is. I could return it to KOA for a full refund since I haven't altered anything. Any thoughts or opinions on if I should keep it would be appreciated, cause I've already changed my own mind several times today.
Cheers!
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Post by bfoo2 on Mar 12, 2018 1:13:42 GMT
What is the blade thickness on yours? KoA advertised 6.5mm when it first came out but I myself (and I recall Dave Kelly too) got closer to 4mm.
*EDIT* KoA updated the stats. Now shows 4mm
Whether to keep it or not is entirely up to you. I find it's infuriatingly inconsistent. The guard and grip are fairly well done, but the blade is comically under-built. Also because the grips are so long you'll have a hard time finding a replacement blade with a suitably long tang (trust me I've tried...)
If you're not completely sold on it, perhaps consider a return. IF you end up thinking of a project further down the line you can always buy it again then then. Sure, you take a risk of loosing $50 on shipping three-ways, but would you rather take that chance or have $200 tied up in a potato?
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Post by randomnobody on Mar 12, 2018 1:31:59 GMT
This is one of the very few CS swords I want to like, but everything I hear about it is just not good.
I say if there's any doubt at all that you love this sword, there's no sense in keeping it.
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Post by bfoo2 on Mar 12, 2018 1:44:36 GMT
This is one of the very few CS swords I want to like, but everything I hear about it is just not good. I say if there's any doubt at all that you love this sword, there's no sense in keeping it. I quite like mine actually. It's stupidly light and under-built but it's a good laugh. It's my clown-car sword
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Post by Rabel Dusk on Mar 12, 2018 3:02:31 GMT
That's too bad. There aren't many Mortuary swords on the market, and fewer still that are any good. This one looks very attractive in the photos of it, but from all I've read, is not worth buying.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 3:32:01 GMT
There are numerous threads and thoughts.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Mar 12, 2018 3:38:27 GMT
I spent another half hour drilling with it, and I think it's growing on me.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 3:39:53 GMT
Gloves make them more comfy.
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Post by Afoo on Mar 12, 2018 4:45:40 GMT
I spent another half hour drilling with it, and I think it's growing on me. I agree. When I got mine, I was put off because its not what I expect. After a while it becomes more likable. Its still too light, but its fun from time to time. I think it looks pretty nice too
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Mar 12, 2018 11:12:18 GMT
This is the one I did a review of. I marked it as not very safe because the tang slot in the guard is too wide, which could result in the tand taking all the force of cutting instead of the blade and thus liable to snapping off right under the pommel.(the thinnest spot is right under the pommel threads) This is a worse case scenario and I have yet to hear reports of faillure, but that said, it may be prudent to keep an eye out for trouble. The way to deal with it is to hammer two copper wedges in the vacant space in the tang slot on either side of the blade. Or just fill the grip with epoxy. The grips tang channel was also way too large on my sword. The tang could move freely from the blade shoulders right up to the pommel. Not very well designed. CS had filled the voids with some wood chips. Again: As far as I know no reports have yet been filed of the tang breaking or of any other faillures. I do not write this to spoil anything for you. Just to make you aware of some weak spots that may need checking out if you are a frequent cutter. Better to be on the safe side. For the rest this sword is quite nice. One of the better CS models I'd say. The only thing that bugged me was the discovery of the blade being thin. I was really digging the promised 6.5 mm.
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Post by Afoo on Mar 12, 2018 14:21:30 GMT
Right you are. I should preface my thoughts with the fact that I only use my swords for display and dry handling, rather than cutting. In that regard its a pleasant sword for my needs, but your milage may vary.
I should also note that mine has developed a bit of a *tink*, which does not go away no matter how far I tighten the nut pommel. Its mild, but *may* be consistent with Uhlan's concerns regarding structural integrity.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Mar 12, 2018 17:48:17 GMT
This is the one I did a review of. I marked it as not very safe because the tang slot in the guard is too wide, which could result in the tand taking all the force of cutting instead of the blade and thus liable to snapping off right under the pommel.(the thinnest spot is right under the pommel threads) This is a worse case scenario and I have yet to hear reports of faillure, but that said, it may be prudent to keep an eye out for trouble. The way to deal with it is to hammer two copper wedges in the vacant space in the tang slot on either side of the blade. Or just fill the grip with epoxy. The grips tang channel was also way too large on my sword. The tang could move freely from the blade shoulders right up to the pommel. Not very well designed. CS had filled the voids with some wood chips. Again: As far as I know no reports have yet been filed of the tang breaking or of any other faillures. I do not write this to spoil anything for you. Just to make you aware of some weak spots that may need checking out if you are a frequent cutter. Better to be on the safe side. For the rest this sword is quite nice. One of the better CS models I'd say. The only thing that bugged me was the discovery of the blade being thin. I was really digging the promised 6.5 mm. Mine came with some rubber bits filling in the lose space between the guard and tang. So far, everything has been rock solid and quiet, but I also havent put it under any stress yet.
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Post by crisock on Mar 12, 2018 19:13:25 GMT
When I first got the English Backsword I actually liked it more than I expected but in the end the blade snapped in half cutting a water bottle. I personally can't recommend the sword for cutting after having that happen to me. I'll see if I can find some old photos of the break for reference.
Edit: I found one - I think I have more on my home computer.
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Post by randomnobody on Mar 12, 2018 19:37:41 GMT
That's a nasty break.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Mar 12, 2018 19:57:50 GMT
When I first got the English Backsword I actually liked it more than I expected but in the end the blade snapped in half cutting a water bottle. I personally can't recommend the sword for cutting after having that happen to me. I'll see if I can find some old photos of the break for reference.
Edit: I found one - I think I have more on my home computer.
Oh good god thanks for linking that. No way I'm keeping it now.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 12, 2018 22:41:57 GMT
What does the steel grain look like? I would have expected the break to be closer to the guard. Had you hit anything else previous to the break? I broke a Godfred years ago and the grain was very coarse, overheated and held at heat too long. Paul Chen himself replied after seeing the photos. Although, I was definitely being abusive splitting hardwood. There were still some of the bare blades from that first batch and I refitted one. I would have definitely contacted Cold Steel on this broken one and gotten a replacement or credit. I can only repeat what I have written in the past. Mine is in storage but iirc, my blade was closer to 5mm but still not 6mm. I had cut some tatami mats when first received. No looseness. I was pushing it that day, with some dead blows that did not sever the target at times. I do use light gloves, not just for the grips but for any baskets (I had cut a knuckle with my Hanwei when not wearing one). Approaching 3 pounds, I wouldn't exactly call them light but with a lot of it in the hand, I can see less authority than one might expect. There was/is definitely more nose than the Hanwei. Hey, just my opinion and one more fond of my spadroons than playing rapier with an 1854 dragon. The bulk of my antiques are less than 2 lbs.
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harrybeck
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Post by harrybeck on Mar 13, 2018 3:32:31 GMT
Anyone want to sell fittings from a broken one?
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Mar 13, 2018 5:46:13 GMT
Crisock: Well, the first report of faillure is in then with a Helicopter of Death event no less. You should definitly send some good pics of the break back to CS for them to analyse, no matter if this happened some time ago. Steel colour, grain, you know the drill. Darn! That's a nasty and sad sight! While you're at it maybe upload those pictures to the forum too. There are people on here who know about this stuff and are impartial. I never expected problems with the blade.
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Post by elbrittania39 on Mar 13, 2018 6:06:35 GMT
Crisock: Well, the first report of faillure is in then with a Helicopter of Death event no less. You should definitly send some good pics of the break back to CS for them to analyse, no matter if this happened some time ago. Steel colour, grain, you know the drill. Darn! That's a nasty and sad sight! While you're at it maybe upload those pictures to the forum too. There are people on here who know about this stuff and are impartial. I never expected problems with the blade. Im just stunned a break like that happened on a water bottle. I'm wondering if it already had a hairline fracture or something.
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Uhlan
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Post by Uhlan on Mar 13, 2018 6:46:30 GMT
Detailed and very sharp pictures of both sides of the fracture may tell. Think its best to take the fragments outside in good daylight and start snapping. Gives the best colour rendering.
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