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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 20, 2008 5:28:50 GMT
Hi all, I've been trying to find a nice one handed sword for cutting, pell work, sword/shield (and if I like it enough I will buy a second for two-sword work), etc. it can be an arming sword, a viking sword, or a broad sword with a basket hilt, or anything else that's strictly one handed. I like my one handers medium to heavy on the weight but they must have a POB very close to the hilt. I like 'em heavy but drivable. I would prefer a peened tang over threaded. my budget is $300-ish but that's not hard and fast, I can always wait a little longer and get something more expensive if I find something I really like.
I have looked at these: 1. Cold steel horseman's basket hilted broad sword (seems like it should have the balance and durability and the basket looks like it affords good mobility but, isn't it a little. . . sci-fi?) right now I'm leaning towards this one because I like the shape of the basket, baskets normaly mean heavy and close POB and it might approximate my SCA two-sword sticks. and it's cheap enough to buy two without breaking the bank.
2. CAS Iberia Scottish basket hilt broad sword. (basket hilt looks too restrictive of movement but otherwise top-notch. I wonder about balance)
3. River Whitham viking can't see anything I dislike about it.
4. misc. ATrim one handers (I don't get it. why does everyone love these? they look ugly and super plain-jane and the stats seem to indicate poor balance I must be missing something)
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2008 6:51:25 GMT
The windlass arming sword is by all accounts a beautiful piece of steel. I to don't like many of the ATrim swords, though his LPM bastard sabre is quite nice. How much are you looking to spend?
If you want a basket hilted sword you should talk to Matthewstagmer from BKS they have some low priced beautiful looking basket sabres, they also make one handers as well.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Jun 20, 2008 6:57:51 GMT
I have seen and handled Cold Steel and CAS basket hilts. I seen them last year at some Ren Faires. A vendor had them and he just doesn't sell swords he uses them and he only carries swords that preforms well. He said that the Horseman's basket hilted broad sword is the best that Cold Steel has. I agree with him I really like the Horseman but it is made for right handers and I'm a lefty . If it was made for both hands I would buy it. As the CASHanwei basket hilts go I like the Back sword better then the broad sword, it handles a lot better.You said you like a med to heavy sword and the broad sword is heavier than the back sword. I have sm/med hands and my hands fit good in the CAS baskets but someone with large hands might have a problem. Someone with large hands well have no problems with the Horseman's basket. If I had to chose between the Cold Steel Horseman's or the CAS basket hilt broad sword,I would get the Horseman. I hope this helps you out?
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 20, 2008 12:54:16 GMT
thanks a lot razor that's what I wanted to know. on the horseman I'm surprised that it's a right hander only, it didn't look "polarity conscious" (sorry I'm an electrician). what is it about the basket that makes it unusable to lefties. I ask because though I am a righty I want to use it in the left too for possible two sword work. hmmm I don't suppose it could be modified? well maybe it's the river witham. . .
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Post by bpogue on Jun 20, 2008 15:35:09 GMT
I like my one handers medium to heavy on the weight but they must have a POB very close to the hilt. ... 4. misc. ATrim one handers (I don't get it. why does everyone love these? they look ugly and super plain-jane and the stats seem to indicate poor balance I must be missing something) From your desired balance point I think you are looking for something that handles more like a Chinese Jian than a proper Medieval Single Hand Sword. A PoB of between 4"-6" is about the norm depending on blade type and period. Just an observation. Blake
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Post by ShooterMike on Jun 20, 2008 20:07:13 GMT
I like my one handers medium to heavy on the weight but they must have a POB very close to the hilt. ... 4. misc. ATrim one handers (I don't get it. why does everyone love these? they look ugly and super plain-jane and the stats seem to indicate poor balance I must be missing something) From your desired balance point I think you are looking for something that handles more like a Chinese Jian than a proper Medieval Single Hand Sword. A PoB of between 4"-6" is about the norm depending on blade type and period. Just an observation. Blake Ditto on Blake's comment. The only medieval single handers I've handled with less than 4 inches to the PoB were "feathery" and had no cutting power at all. And to me, the turning and "driving" dynamics were totally off. About 4-6 inch PoB is right for me too.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 20, 2008 21:07:52 GMT
I've been thinking of getting an Albion knightly. $389+$25 to have them sharpen it. I just got the Duke I ordered back in Feb, OMG does it make my Kaze feel like a fat pig. The Duke has around a 36 inch blade and it feels almost weightless, in comparison my Kaze is VERY tip heavy, and just feels heavy over all. It's amazing and the grip is perfect (fat in the area about 80 percent up from the pomel with a little taper towards the top and a lot of taper towards the bottom) It doesn't have the stiffness a katana does so I will wait until I am better before I cut with it. It was my first Albion and first medieval sword and from what I read its one of their heavier, slower swords. Balanced this well I cant even fathom what their single handers would be like.
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Post by Brian of DBK on Jun 21, 2008 1:25:48 GMT
I have the Albion Prince single-handed sword, and it truly is amazing.
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 21, 2008 5:15:27 GMT
so does any one know if Cold steel peens or threads their tangs?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2008 7:02:04 GMT
Depends on the sword
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2008 7:40:50 GMT
Some good suggestions here. I'm going to be in the market for a single hander soon, after the new toy syndrome wears off my Atrim longsword and the gas kicks back in ;D
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Post by Deleted on Jun 21, 2008 17:08:22 GMT
whatabout the valiant signature series?
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Post by jjshade on Jun 21, 2008 22:38:18 GMT
Maybe you could try something of short-sword length?
I've found that with shorter swords, even if they have a PoB close to the guard, you can give the strike more "punch" if needed - which is something that becomes harder to do as the blade lenght increases, since the leverage resisting the cut also increases.
Furthermore, at least in my own opinion, dual-wielding is much simpler with a shorter weapon in your off-hand. So if you can live with the idea of having a different type of sword in each hand, you could buy a short sword for your left hand (and general use) now, and get a "main weapon" for dual wielding later.
There are lots of decent short-sword pieces in the market. From Celtic to the Cinquedea, many different time periods are also represented.
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Razor
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Post by Razor on Jun 21, 2008 23:57:31 GMT
thanks a lot razor that's what I wanted to know. on the horseman I'm surprised that it's a right hander only, it didn't look "polarity conscious" (sorry I'm an electrician). what is it about the basket that makes it unusable to lefties. I ask because though I am a righty I want to use it in the left too for possible two sword work. hmmm I don't suppose it could be modified? well maybe it's the river witham. . . It's not 100% right handed you could use it with your left. The basket is different on the left then the right. The pirate's cutlass would be a good left hand sword. www.armsofvalour.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AOVL&Product_Code=1863&Category_Code=P
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 22, 2008 1:29:47 GMT
I am looking for a straight blade with two edges for sure. ultimately I'm going to put many of the more controversial SCA style strikes to the test. so I want to get sword that would closely approximate my SCA fighting sticks. the coldsteel horseman's looks like the closest to what I use. as for weapons of different length, no I want them identical. I know historically speaking two sword usualy meant things like sword and main gouche (spelling?) or katana and wakizashi but I have trained extensively with two swords of equal length, and generally of arming/broadsword size, though I have used paired short swords, paired axes, and odd combinations like sword and spear. for now though I'm only geting one as I have plenty of single hand work I can do.
I gotta say though, that cutlass looks pretty sweet. I could love swinging that I think, but since it doesn't have a back edge it's not what I'm looking for right now.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 4, 2008 5:50:33 GMT
Have you seen my review of the Reaver?
/index.cgi?board=euromedieval&action=display&thread=5310
I have my blade at 31" tapping down to 1/4 inch from 1.5 inches at the base. Its balances 2" below the hilt. It is more of cut and thrust rather then an arming sword. I also completely covered my basket with leather to prevent thrusts to my hand.
If you want it to cut with more authority have it taper to 1/2 inch at 29 inches length. That should bring you POB about 4 inches down the hilt. Only problem with more weight on the tip is that it will be harder to pull your shots in practice. That is why I want my tip light.
I have found no problem with the basket hilt interfering with any of my shots. It get a tiny bit if I do a real low warp behind the calf. On a sword with no basket I normally really loosen my hand on that shot and let the sword rotate on that shot, but its a really rare shot I throw. When I wear gloves barely feel the basket hilt even on that shot on the outside of my hand.
Alchem makes their swords to order and can make it at different levels of stiffness. Really whippy if your partners insist on no bruises. Medium, as I have it. Or stiff, which will put it about where Windless makes their blades. I'm sure they can grind and edge on it if you want it for cutting since the sword is a costum job anyway.
One option is to get two blades, one for practice and one for cutting and swap it into the furniture. The pommol is held in place by a tension pin that slides in and out and is cheaply replaceable. I would ask for extras if you go that route. Yo can also get the pommol threaded, which I don't advise for heavy duty work.
Price is about $180 with a estimated 6 week wait.
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Post by waltznjack on Aug 15, 2008 3:29:42 GMT
I recommend the Scottish one handed sword by Valiant Arms' practical line. I was looking for one (see Want A Plain Sword in the General Discussion Forum. Also see my description of the Scottish sword I purchased). Iestin did a review of a Scottish one hand sword from I think Gen2 which he bought thru Cult of Athena. The quillons shown on his are a bit too long while the Valiant I purchased they are proportional. I found a site called Gothic Fanasty which sells a Scottish sword for $219.00 maker unknown but the sword looks great with brass quillons and pommel.
I finally went to a knife shop which stocks Valiant Arms swords and when I saw the Scottish sword I tried for flex, ballance and feel. After buying several swords on the internet I found there is no substitute for handling the sword yourself. I purchased my Valiant Scottish one handed sword for $175.00 out the door and have seen it advertised for around $175.00 on several dealer websites. I really love my Valiant Arms Scottish sword. Again see my thread on SCOTTISH ONE HANDED SWORD under general discussion. Bon Chance!
Waltznjack and harmonica
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