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Post by Croccifixio on Feb 10, 2017 2:20:23 GMT
Still much nicer that the stock imo. Great job!
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Post by seriouslee on Feb 12, 2017 11:11:38 GMT
Do you make house calls?
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 12, 2017 13:33:25 GMT
Huh? Sorry please explain?
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Post by seriouslee on Feb 13, 2017 20:33:35 GMT
Doctors and people who fix things used to make house calls. =) You do nice work so I was joking about your coming and working on a blade or two of mine.
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 15, 2017 2:09:01 GMT
Thanks! I will do it for free if you pay from transportation. I live in Australia hehehe
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Post by seriouslee on Feb 15, 2017 14:41:50 GMT
Thanks! I will do it for free if you pay from transportation. I live in Australia hehehe The beer is on me?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2017 7:50:22 GMT
Hey, just asking, did you get any scratches on the blade? If so, how did you get them off? Just curious, and my blade is busted up from my brother doing an abusive test to it....
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 19, 2017 8:10:15 GMT
Not yet. But many of my blades have scratches from cutting newspaper roll. That stuff contains a small mount of clay, it will scratch the sword. For cheap modern blade, I just polish them off with 7000 grits paper stuck on a flat piece of wood, followed by very fine cerium oxide powder on soft cloth. Deeper scratches I use up to 1000 grits followed by 1500, 2500 and 3000 grits and stay well away from the shinogi.
You can pull the hamon back out using lemon juice and vinegar, just rub it on the surface repeatedly (you need to wash the blade with hot water and soap first), should show in the first 10 min. Ferric chloride is faster but way too aggressive for my taste. Once etched, you just polished the excessive dark stuff off with anything fine.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 19, 2017 23:58:21 GMT
Not yet. But many of my blades have scratches from cutting newspaper roll. That stuff contains a small mount of clay, it will scratch the sword. For cheap modern blade, I just polish them off with 7000 grits paper stuck on a flat piece of wood, followed by very fine cerium oxide powder on soft cloth. Deeper scratches I use up to 1000 grits followed by 1500, 2500 and 3000 grits and stay well away from the shinogi. You can pull the hamon back out using lemon juice and vinegar, just rub it on the surface repeatedly (you need to wash the blade with hot water and soap first), should show in the first 10 min. Ferric chloride is faster but way too aggressive for my taste. Once etched, you just polished the excessive dark stuff off with anything fine. Thanks for the input.
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Post by stopped1 on Mar 29, 2017 11:02:58 GMT
Final update, said I wasn't going to cut, iaido kata only, I LIED! Took it out for cutting night and yeah pretty happy, it cut ok, not great, being a very light blade but no bend from a very bad cut that got stuck in target. The soft bit took some scratches , more than my Jame Raw DH (way more than a 1045 TH but expected) but I don't mind legit cutting marks. Hamon held the edge fine after 30 or so cuts. Here are some cutting vid, yeah I know the form is poor, haven't tried cutting from a reverse draw ko ryu style before so I leaned forward. And the other two cuts were in Kendo mode (you have no idea how often I got told off about the "bloody Kendo cut/footwork) Movie_Maker_29-03-2017_121400_AM_Medium.mp4 (2.39 MB) Movie_Maker_29-03-2017_122906_AM_Medium.mp4 (3.89 MB)
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