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Post by connorclarke on Jan 23, 2017 17:52:55 GMT
Looks pretty good, unfortunately the things that they didn't fully deliver on are quite common I've found now. The thin paint on the saya is an area Longquan need to work on, they really don't laquer them like Hanwei does. Cheap synthetic fibre...expected. Though St does now stock Japanese black, coffee and white leather which I would have gotten. As for the Horimono, yeah that looks pretty rough that I can tell and I've never asked for that before. Can you smooth and polish it up? Thanks for sharing and great review.
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Post by stopped1 on Jan 23, 2017 18:48:18 GMT
I did brunished a small part of the line. The steel is not as soft as I had hoped for so it may take a while. Those lines are not very deep so I better be careful, one slip and I will have a hard time fixing up the surface. I may do that later after reshaping the tsuka (and finish with my rattan wrap chinese jian scabbard project). The red paint looks legit enough so will do for now. Next time I will ask them to cut it deep like a hi if I want a suken
I half expected to reshape the handle when I ordered so there is no point getting nice ito. And since I like the blade, it is getting a kabuto gane installed.
Those are small problem, at least the blade is great. For $330 I should complainy really.
Also the blade to saya fit is not perfect, the last inch or so is very draggy when I do noto so I will have to sand the inside a bit. Thankfully it is about 6 inches from the habaki where it drags so I can get to it with a file.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2017 3:21:50 GMT
Hi, stopped1! Seems like you bought a sword from ST Nihonto. They are actually part of the Ryansword branch, a.k.a one of the Ryansword eBay vendors. Now, I got a sword from another vendor; different vendor and different sword, yet they probably should be about the same. Now, I'm currently trying to get the handle off the katana and wakizashi, but I got the tanto handle off. The tang, well, not very beautiful file marks. However, they are neat, straight, and organized, which is a good thing. The blade itself is probably a sharpness level of 2/4 when it arrives, but a little later it gets dull. The saya seems better than mine, because it seems like it has real authentic buffalo horn on the kurikata and koiguchi. For $330, seems like a good sword for the price. The blade engraving is pretty intricate from what I know. Good purchase for the price, and be sure to post lots more pictures!
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 1, 2017 6:12:59 GMT
Not back from Iaido trip interstate (I passed my San Dan last week so I "must" but yet another sword to celebrate haha). I did manage to get the tsuka out before I left home. The basic shape is fine but lot of grind marks and sharp around the edges. I will file it properly when I get home. Punch marks in the tsuka to fit it to the blade tightly, nice one here. The top 2 cm of the tsuka core has slipt open should be easy fix when I wrap it with decent ito. The tusba n F/K are painted not rust blued so I will have do it later..... not much to complaint for the price. You should also post some pics so we can compare note hey
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Post by connorclarke on Feb 1, 2017 21:04:30 GMT
Yet again, St isn't Ryansword affiliated. Wish these noobs would read others posts and stop misinforming the community. Fish has already made a separate thread asking this question and has been already given answers. Seems he doesn't read what people have to say and opens with the same ignorant statement one would expect from an ignorant person.
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Post by Kiyoshi on Feb 1, 2017 23:37:54 GMT
Sorry, but we aren't spreading misinformation. It is well known that ST is associated with ryansword. Aside from conversation with the person himself, you have no evidence while there is a bit more saying he is. Please refrain from calling names as it is not only against forum rules but not helping your cause.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2017 0:31:16 GMT
Yet again, St isn't Ryansword affiliated. Wish these noobs would read others posts and stop misinforming the community. Fish has already made a separate thread asking this question and has been already given answers. Seems he doesn't read what people have to say and opens with the same ignorant statement one would expect from an ignorant person. Sorry, haven't checked that post in a while. However, you also do need to remember that I haven't had much experience with Ryansword, because I'm more of a Hanwei/Cheness person.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2017 0:58:39 GMT
Anyways, sorry for any ignorance or such. I really need to get back on my old post...
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 2, 2017 1:42:31 GMT
Guys, lets get back to the topic.
Got home and pulled the shoe lace ito off. The yari menuki have projection from casting on the underside so they were not sitting on the same flat, easy to move around so I filed them off. All fittings turned out to be painted black and very uncool. So I spent some time fixing it by burning. The tsuba paint came off upon heating easy and the bare iron has deep black oxide on it, easy fix. Menuki are brass and paint came off easy. Now the F/K are interesting. The fuchi paint came off easy but the karshira is different, the paint is hard to remove, and then there was a layer of hard stuff (chrome?), and then a layer of copper underneath...... I will have to sand the whole thing down later today before rust blueing it. Tusba steel seems to rust better in my fume box but the fuchi rusts much slower. Worked on them till 3am.... and I only had enough green tea at home tea to either drink to keep awake or to boil the rusted bits it... so zzzz now.
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Post by connorclarke on Feb 2, 2017 14:09:42 GMT
Are you antiquing the fittings?
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 2, 2017 22:02:24 GMT
Yip. Acid pickle to roughen up the surface, polish lightly with mother and toothbrush, boil to clean, then leave suspended in fume box with vinegar and 5% surphic acid in the bottom, rust and boil in tea, repeat rust and boil every 4-8 hours for a week.
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Post by connorclarke on Feb 3, 2017 1:21:42 GMT
That's cool. Have any differences in results from the alloy fittings compared to the alloy stuff from China?
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 3, 2017 1:50:44 GMT
Not sure, never played with zinc alloy fittings, too brittle for swords...
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 3, 2017 1:52:41 GMT
By the way whatever steel is in St nihonto's iron fitting rusts much slower than iron and mild steel. Possibly a little nickle in it
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Post by connorclarke on Feb 3, 2017 14:24:24 GMT
So you said the fuchi and kashira are different metal but you are antiquing them?
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 5, 2017 0:58:56 GMT
It was the surface coating that's different, one had a layer of chrome/nickle and a layer of copper under the black paint, then other one was just black paint over iron.
Both F/K are steel, maybe a grade with small amount of nickel as they don't rust as fast as the tsuba steel.
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Post by connorclarke on Feb 5, 2017 2:03:07 GMT
Interesting, thanks.
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 9, 2017 9:02:48 GMT
Okay, final update. Spend some time working on the sword to it make presentable for Iaido class. The F/K are very rust resistant, the most I could get it was grey, rust and boil trick worked better with another tsuba I was doing at the same time, even the tsuba that came with the sword rusted easy..... oh well, cold blued it with gun touch up blue Then I shaped the handle to give it more curve by filing the top of and sticking a piece of broken shinai underneath Applied better same I had at home, I was running low of same and I wanted to keep two good panels for the next project so I used off cut (can't see it in the pic but there are two pieces jointed together in the middle), which worked fine as I wanted a slimmer handle or katake was the way to go anyway A few pieces of paper were stuck under the same to fit the fuchi better 2 am, time to leave the glue to dry cleaned up the seppa a bit so they wouldn't be not bigger than the edges of the tusba anymore stock yari menuki were too long so I gug out a pair of small silver ones time to wrap, the tetsu grey ito not arrived by then so I wanted to get another handle build anyway so I looked for some scrap ito at home, found two pieces of left over Japanese cotton, just the right length for katate maki AND...... I measured it wrong, when I was measuring I forgot the hishigami.... when I actually wrapped it with hishigami I almost ran out of ito..... Was hard to do the last two diamonds but just managed, wasn't my best job but better than shoelace-maki it had AND..... finsihed! Attachments:
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Post by stopped1 on Feb 9, 2017 9:22:55 GMT
And I cheated, the last few diamond were not well done as I was running out of ito, some wood was showing, so I cut a few small pieces of ray skin and glues over the wood to cover it up The whole thing with handle curve, done and dusted, time to go back to my jian project!
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Post by connorclarke on Feb 9, 2017 20:06:37 GMT
Nice work.
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