|
Post by bfoo2 on Oct 17, 2016 5:33:13 GMT
Hello
Just a quick question before heading to bed:
I recently switched from sword oil (hanwei) to renaissance wax about a month ago. I've noticed that some pieces experienced an increase in corrosion- specifically hairline/web-like corrosion. It seems that this affected only some pieces and not others. Fortunately it seems like ones with pre-existing pitting elsewhere on the blade were hit (which is okay since they're in line for a cleaning anyway).
I'm not sure if oils just offer more protection than wax (reduced condensation, more coherent coating, etc), or if there's something in the formulation that attacks certain alloys. Does anyone have any experience with this?
In any case, it looks like it's back to messy oils for the time being....
|
|
|
Post by Croccifixio on Oct 17, 2016 6:30:53 GMT
I think renwax traps existing moisture in similar to WD40. It's the best coating for long term preservation if you're able to fully clean the sword before putting the wax, but maybe not when you use the sword or take it out often.
|
|
|
Post by william m on Oct 17, 2016 15:00:44 GMT
For me, I use ren wax on swords without scabbards because it doesn't catch much dust unlike oil.
Also you don't want to get wax inside your scabbards.
|
|
pgandy
Moderator
Senior Forumite
Posts: 10,296
|
Post by pgandy on Oct 17, 2016 17:06:30 GMT
I heard good things about Renaissance Wax. But I experienced rusting on my buckler and lost interest in it. Renaissance Wax is expensive for me to import and I decided against further use. I do prefer a wax to oil as wax tends to pick up less debris.
|
|
|
Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 17, 2016 17:27:22 GMT
I don't live in a rust climate. I use petroleum jelly/vaseline for sword, leather and hand, if cut. You can make a thicker layer on a clean sword for storage, but usualy I kneat some into a clean rag and use this rag for months to wipe over or polish the blades a bit.
|
|
|
Post by scottw on Oct 18, 2016 22:56:58 GMT
I use Hopps gun oil..I love the smell of it.
|
|
|
Post by wazikan on Oct 18, 2016 23:02:05 GMT
i disliked the hanwei oil. I got some and it just didn't seem to sit well on the steel.
|
|
|
Post by bfoo2 on Oct 19, 2016 0:06:51 GMT
I use Hopps gun oil..I love the smell of it. I like that stuff, but I understand that most gun oils dissolve copper and brass (one of their jobs is getting rid of gun-gunk which contains traces of brass cartridge casings). No problem on steel, but it can sometimes make nickle-plated items go funny (the nickle is usually plated ontop of a copper sub-layer, so when that goes...)
|
|
|
Post by Dave Kelly on Oct 19, 2016 0:53:12 GMT
Automotive Silicon works great for uncoated or painted metals. Keep away from leathers and cloths. 4.00 a can. (Beep,beep)
|
|
|
Post by scottw on Oct 19, 2016 0:55:20 GMT
Oh you're thinking of bore solvent, im talking about the actual oil for protection. I wouldn't use the solvent on anything but the inside of a barrel or receiver, and after using it I use a clean cotton pad to remove it. It is definitely not recommended for any other use on any steel, certainly not as a protective coating, on a sword or firearm.
|
|
|
Post by bfoo2 on Oct 19, 2016 1:11:12 GMT
I was under the impression that Hoppes oil had some bore-solvent properties. I could be mistaken (what do us Canadians know about guns anyway? Hockey tape and Tim hortons coffee!)
|
|
|
Post by michaeljager on Nov 2, 2016 3:23:39 GMT
Automotive Silicon works great for uncoated or painted metals. Keep away from leathers and cloths. 4.00 a can. (Beep,beep) Do you mean silicone grease? And apply a thin layer similar to sword oil? Tired of my swords rusting under a thick layer of choji oil.
|
|
|
Post by Voltan on Nov 2, 2016 3:28:36 GMT
Silicone spray is all I've ever used. Super easy to apply, no mess, and I've never had a blade rust that was treated with it. I also kinda like the smell...
|
|