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Post by howler on Oct 3, 2018 19:29:28 GMT
My, the things I have learned and accomplished since this thread... To stop crack blades. Blades should just stick to weed.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 3, 2018 20:27:49 GMT
Need to stop posting half a wake.
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Post by howler on Oct 4, 2018 0:58:25 GMT
Need to stop posting half a wake. But if you didn't I wouldn't have been able to make such a half BAKED (another corny pun) joke. Sleep is overrated...which reminds me, I need to take a nap.
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Post by zabazagobo on Oct 4, 2018 3:00:28 GMT
Need to stop posting half a wake. But if you didn't I wouldn't have been able to make such a half BAKED (another corny pun) joke. Sleep is overrated...which reminds me, I need to take a nap.Mmmm...bourbon.
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Post by howler on Oct 4, 2018 3:21:36 GMT
But if you didn't I wouldn't have been able to make such a half BAKED (another corny pun) joke. Sleep is overrated...which reminds me, I need to take a nap.Mmmm...bourbon.
Up from the nap...which reminds me...it's cocktail time.
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Post by csills2313 on Oct 5, 2018 14:12:39 GMT
In the "days of old" yes, folded was beneficial. Carbon content could vary wildly from chunk to chunk of the steel that came out of the giant furnace. To counter this, they would smoosh all the chunks together in to one bar, and fold it, like, a bazillion times (usually just a few, actually) until the layers of varying carbon content were so fine that the it was almost an even amount in all places. Today's steel has much more even carbon content and folding isn't needed. It does, however, look nice. I have a Chinese folded sword and am quite fond of it. Folded swords aren't inherently WORSE than their non folded counterparts, but there's just more room for mistakes. Plus, if it's folded, that means it folded with something with lower carbon content. So it would be 1095 and probably something like 1060 folded together. So the edge on your sword has a 50/50 chance of being 1095 instead of 1060. The 1060 won't hold an edge as well as 1095. Will you notice the difference? Probably not. I'm just throwing it out there. I like folded steel katanas because of their aesthetic properties. The folding can be quite beautiful. I have several monostell 1060 clay tempered katanas and they hold an edge just fine even after cutting tatami mats or small bamboo stalks. I have a T10 and 1095 katana. The main difference I noticed between the 1060 and 1095 or T10 is that they tend to be easier to sharpen to a razor edge. They also hold the edge longer. If I were to do a lot of backyard cutting with the 1060's I would need to hone them at least every six months.
Modern folded steel tends to have the same carbon content as their mono tempered counterparts. As Mikeeman said, folded steel katanas are often made of two different types of steel such as 1095 and 1060. The 1060 allows blade some flexibility while the 1095 folded part adds rigidity to the blade. My 1095/1060 folded steel katana is razor sharp and cuts effortlessly
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Post by Timo Nieminen on Oct 6, 2018 6:30:59 GMT
Modern folded steel tends to have the same carbon content as their mono tempered counterparts. As Mikeeman said, folded steel katanas are often made of two different types of steel such as 1095 and 1060. The 1060 allows blade some flexibility while the 1095 folded part adds rigidity to the blade. 1095 won't add any rigidity. It's just as easy to bend (or hard to bend, if you prefer) as spring-tempered 1060. The carbon content and heat treatment don't make any difference to how easy it is to bend; they affect how far you can bend it before it breaks or takes a set. The elastic modulus is (close enough to being) the same for different steel alloys and heat treatments.
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Post by csills2313 on Oct 6, 2018 13:35:47 GMT
Thanks Timo. I am no metallurgist. Thanks for the clarification. Properly heat treated 1095 steel will be harder than 1060 heat treated steel. I have read some articles on this over time and most state that Damascus or folded steel blades were created by folding steels of different properties together to get the desired effect of hardness and flexibility.
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Post by Jrob on Nov 23, 2018 6:34:54 GMT
This is why I hate these forums. NO one can answer simple questions without going off into a bunch of BS of how the steel is made. No one asked or gives a semprini. Just give your opinion of what you think is the best Katana sword and the metal it should be not to break, chip, crack, stay bent, and stays sharp. From what I learned you would want 9260 spring steel but I seen another person tell someone to get something stronger if they would be going up against another sword.. wtf? Why does this have to be so hard to get these basic answers? I think people are letting their feelings get in the way of what they purchased wanting it to be the best most reliable steel they could have ever bought in a katana.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Nov 23, 2018 7:12:46 GMT
Well, maybe because of the huge variations in steel types, quality and heat treatments? Could also perhaps have something to do with differences in length, weight, shape, geometry of the blade, the intended use of the sword, aesthetic preferences or ease of upkeep? Lastly, it could also maybe be due to the fact that there is no hard and fast right answer to that question?
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Nov 23, 2018 7:54:15 GMT
The question is not simple, it's like the question: What is the best steel for a car? That's also the reason why different swordmakers use different steels. CP3V might be better than 9260 but a smith can make a blade out of 1045 with good heat treatment that is better than one out of CP3V or 9260 with a little bit inferior heat treatment. The difference between the typical sword-steels probably can never be experienced for a normal customer.
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Post by howler on Nov 23, 2018 8:25:04 GMT
If done well, I like everything about 3V except the price. Which brings us to another variable, cost.
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Post by vigrek on Jan 9, 2021 18:06:26 GMT
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Post by Pawelcup on Dec 31, 2021 9:12:21 GMT
Thank you! This threat just went on and on about quenching and pointless semprini swinging about who knows more about smithing. There are maybe 2 actual answers to the original question. What a disgrace.
All the answer required was: 1060 is better if... 1095 is better if...
Done!
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Dec 31, 2021 10:08:52 GMT
1060 is better if you want a steel with 0,6 % carbon content. 1095 is better if you want a steel with 1 % carbon content. So simple...
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Post by eastman on Dec 31, 2021 19:07:47 GMT
1060 is better if you want a steel with 0,6 % carbon content. 1095 is better if you want a steel with 1 % carbon content. So simple...
it only took this thread 6 years to finally get to the absolute truth
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Post by vidar on Jan 6, 2022 9:26:07 GMT
Thank you! This threat just went on and on about quenching and pointless semprini swinging about who knows more about smithing. There are maybe 2 actual answers to the original question. What a disgrace. All the answer required was: 1060 is better if... 1095 is better if... Done! Rule of thumb: 1060 is better for cutting hard targets (tougher blade), while 1095 is better for cutting soft targets (better edge retention).
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Post by RufusScorpius on Jan 6, 2022 18:53:56 GMT
The practical upshot of the 1060 vs 1095 debate is the that the average user will never know the difference. If I sold you a blade that was 1095 and told you it was 1060 (or vice versa), how would you know the difference? 99% of sword buyers would spend the rest of their lives believing the steel was whatever it was sold as.
As mentioned on this forum ad nauseum: the heat treating/hardening process done to the steel is what matters to the end user, not the alloy. A poorly treated 1095 is worse than a properly done 1060.
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