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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 12, 2015 20:11:56 GMT
1060, 1075, 1095 blades can be either quenched in water, brine, or oil. Remember that historical Euro(perhaps?) or Japaneses (definitely) were quenched in water. BUT, there is a higher probability of cracks or breaks when using brine or water. Oil is safer for the blade. From my research on the internet I see that folks are posting that 1 in 4 blades (or worse) can break when quenched in water. Why use water or brine? Better activity in the hamon. In fact it's better to use a low viscosity "fast" oil to get a nice hamon activity than your veggie or motor oil. And again, water makes for the most activity in the hamon. (I have no first hand experience. This is all from recent internet research.) W.r.t. the theory of "core steel" and cooling speed, I'm not sure what is meant here since many times clay is applied to spine of a sword and the heat treat process is adjusted slightly to accommodate this effect. Not on through hardened swords. 1060 could handle a water quench no problem, I think. I know 1045 you can quench and not even temper. (done it) so I'd say 1060 would have a very high survival rate. Plus, since it's TH, there is less stress to actually pull the edge apart. I don't want to sound like a semprini but maybe you should think a bit less and do more ;) I too have had a 1060 blade crack in water. And yeah, absolutely HATE that sound... is it possible to quench 1060 in water? Sure. Would I do it if I wasn't after a hamon? Certainly not. Take it from those that have done it, 1060 in "blade thickness" gets plenty hard in oil.
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Aug 12, 2015 21:08:19 GMT
I have done quiet a bit of quenching, thank you. No need for that kind of tone. I've used lots of steels in all different shapes and sizes for all kinds of blades. I'm no pro, but I have yet to crack a 10XX steel other than the knife I made with Tom over last weekend. It was 1095 with a water quench, so it's not unexpected. I have also water quenched 1084. And it was DH. No cracks. I have cracked several blades in the quench, before. But that was mostly because I overheated them or didn't know exactly what the steel was.
Yes, blades can crack in quench. That doesn't mean it was due to the quench. There are lots of other factors that affect the steel than just what you quench it in.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Aug 13, 2015 4:24:01 GMT
You've just been plain lucky then not to have more blades crack in water quench. I really see no reason to use water on a through harden blade.
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Aug 13, 2015 4:25:58 GMT
That may be.
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Post by aussie-rabbit on Aug 13, 2015 7:19:35 GMT
keep it civil guys quenching fluids are magical concoctions, I love used auto transmission oil, (because it was free!)
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Post by Lukas MG (chenessfan) on Aug 13, 2015 18:46:10 GMT
Sorry Mikeeman, if I offended you... apologies, wasn't my intention. I'm just a little miffed when things are presented as fact when they are actually not so clear at all. It doesn't help the OP if he is told 1060 won't get hard enough in oil, bend easily and not take an edge if all this is based on is theoretical thinking. Same thing with saying a 1060 blade will survive a water quench with a very high survival chance... both is at the least VERY debatable.
Anyway, I should have put it more nicely. Sorry about that.
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Aug 13, 2015 21:11:05 GMT
Sorry Mikeeman, if I offended you... apologies, wasn't my intention. I'm just a little miffed when things are presented as fact when they are actually not so clear at all. It doesn't help the OP if he is told 1060 won't get hard enough in oil, bend easily and not take an edge if all this is based on is theoretical thinking. Same thing with saying a 1060 blade will survive a water quench with a very high survival chance... both is at the least VERY debatable. Anyway, I should have put it more nicely. Sorry about that. We're cool.
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Post by Bziolk on Nov 27, 2017 0:09:04 GMT
It's highly unlikely that you will break an eBay 1095 sword. They are usually softer than their name brand counterparts. Unless you really, really try, I doubt you can screw it up that bad. i own a 1060 and a 1095 steel katana. Both were clay tempered with unknown quench. Neither is folded. I have used both for chopping things. I actually paid 79$ for the 1095 and 89$ for the 1060. Both with real ray skin but prob not fully wrapped. They both take and hold an edge sharp enough to shave my hairy legs. Both have chopped through thick brush up to 3 inch diam without chipping. Hope this helps. 1095 is easier to sharpe. One stroke with my shark and it’s ready
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Post by Bziol on Nov 27, 2017 0:16:26 GMT
What I CAN say is that oil quenching 1060 will probably not make it hard enough. It will bend easily and not keep an edge. Unless, of course, you mean 9260. Then an oil quench is good. There is only one company you are not allowed to mention around here, and I don't think that's the one you're talking about.
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Post by Bziol on Nov 27, 2017 0:24:27 GMT
What I CAN say is that oil quenching 1060 will probably not make it hard enough. It will bend easily and not keep an edge. Unless, of course, you mean 9260. Then an oil quench is good. There is only one company you are not allowed to mention around here, and I don't think that's the one you're talking about. im no sword expert. I own many acres of forest and spend much time out there. There have been several bigfoot sightings in my area. I didn’t tske it serious until I started finding animal corpses torn to pieces on my property. I bought my katanas for protection and don’t care st all about asterisk I must say both my 1060 and 1095 clay tempered unfolded swords can hack through the toughest brush like a fine machete I’m no expert but I use mine frequently. I did get one chip in the 1095 blade but hit the wood at an angle. They were relatively cheap 79$ and 89$. But I feel comfy I could sever a Bigfoot’s arm leg or head with either
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Post by Bziol on Nov 27, 2017 0:30:37 GMT
im no sword expert. I own many acres of forest and spend much time out there. There have been several bigfoot sightings in my area. I didn’t tske it serious until I started finding animal corpses torn to pieces on my property. I bought my katanas for protection and don’t care st all about asterisk I must say both my 1060 and 1095 clay tempered unfolded swords can hack through the toughest brush like a fine machete I’m no expert but I use mine frequently. I did get one chip in the 1095 blade but hit the wood at an angle. They were relatively cheap 79$ and 89$. But I feel comfy I could sever a Bigfoot’s arm leg or head with either there is no expert whom surpasses experience and as I said I don’t care what my katanas look like I’m all function and don’t worry about form. I beat the daylights out of my two blades and am amazed at how well they hold up. Both are ragged and dirty because I bought them to use and carry for self defense along with my Glock 30 when out on my 100 acres of thick old growth forest. You can laugh but when you find 8 point bucks with their heads ripped off you better take a few precautions. I’m not saying Bigfoot’s real but something did it and it wasn’t no human
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Post by Verity on Nov 27, 2017 19:00:54 GMT
im no sword expert. I own many acres of forest and spend much time out there. There have been several bigfoot sightings in my area. I didn’t tske it serious until I started finding animal corpses torn to pieces on my property. I bought my katanas for protection and don’t care st all about asterisk I must say both my 1060 and 1095 clay tempered unfolded swords can hack through the toughest brush like a fine machete I’m no expert but I use mine frequently. I did get one chip in the 1095 blade but hit the wood at an angle. They were relatively cheap 79$ and 89$. But I feel comfy I could sever a Bigfoot’s arm leg or head with either there is no expert whom surpasses experience and as I said I don’t care what my katanas look like I’m all function and don’t worry about form. I beat the daylights out of my two blades and am amazed at how well they hold up. Both are ragged and dirty because I bought them to use and carry for self defense along with my Glock 30 when out on my 100 acres of thick old growth forest. You can laugh but when you find 8 point bucks with their heads ripped off you better take a few precautions. I’m not saying Bigfoot’s real but something did it and it wasn’t no human I somehow feel that whatever can tear the head off an 8-point buck isn’t gonna be stopped by a katana of any steel, or a Glock 30... just my thinking when you consider the size and musculature of a buck and the force and size necessary of whatever messed it up...
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Post by howler on Nov 27, 2017 21:30:39 GMT
there is no expert whom surpasses experience and as I said I don’t care what my katanas look like I’m all function and don’t worry about form. I beat the daylights out of my two blades and am amazed at how well they hold up. Both are ragged and dirty because I bought them to use and carry for self defense along with my Glock 30 when out on my 100 acres of thick old growth forest. You can laugh but when you find 8 point bucks with their heads ripped off you better take a few precautions. I’m not saying Bigfoot’s real but something did it and it wasn’t no human I somehow feel that whatever can tear the head off an 8-point buck isn’t gonna be stopped by a katana of any steel, or a Glock 30... just my thinking when you consider the size and musculature of a buck and the force and size necessary of whatever messed it up... There are a few posts on firearms, spear, etc...to carry in order to deal with bears. If Bigfoot existed (it doesn't, unless it travels interdimensional), it would be destroyed by a Brown or Polar bear.
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Johansen Yohanovich
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Post by Johansen Yohanovich on Oct 2, 2018 3:20:58 GMT
I know that they are not a traditional Katana, but take a look at Zombie Tools out of Montana...these guys hand build every piece from 5160 Spring steel, tempered. Amazing blades. Brutal, but in their own way, fairly elegant. And, made in America by American Good ol Boys!
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 2, 2018 7:12:57 GMT
Zombie Tools way over weight. This thread is 3 years old too.
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pgandy
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Post by pgandy on Oct 2, 2018 13:23:32 GMT
So??
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Post by howler on Oct 2, 2018 19:52:10 GMT
I love zombie threads...just in time for Halloween. Tempering is key, and mid carbon seems more appropriate for longer, thinner sword stuff. Wish I was a blade maker and knew more about the metallurgical "riddles of steel" and could make stuff myself.
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Post by AndiTheBarvarian on Oct 2, 2018 20:04:49 GMT
Got an Apokatana 2 weeks ago. It handles like my Hanwei Raptor Shinogi Zukuri. A durable no hi katana for hard targets. But not so far away from my lighter kats. I'd say heavy but not way over weight. Heavy for one handed use, ok with both hands. I like light and nimble swords btw.
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Mikeeman
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Post by Mikeeman on Oct 3, 2018 17:06:11 GMT
My, the things I have learned and accomplished since this thread...
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 3, 2018 17:35:21 GMT
My, the things I have learned and accomplished since this thread... To stop crack blades.
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