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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2008 0:44:21 GMT
My design thread.
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Apr 25, 2008 0:48:54 GMT
wheres the pictures ;D
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 26, 2008 2:20:10 GMT
Are they rapiers? They are so thin I can barely see them.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 28, 2008 1:56:51 GMT
Are they rapiers? They are so thin I can barely see them. +1 for that.
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2008 2:05:34 GMT
A couple fuller designs and hilt designs for the long sword I posted awhile back.
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Post by alvin on May 1, 2008 2:49:57 GMT
They all look nice Sam. I'll take one of those third-down-from-the-top please.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 1, 2008 11:07:26 GMT
I'd go one of the scentstopper pommels. The guard from 3 And Blade 2 - the fullers add a dimension of style to that one. (Assume 1 is top and 4 is bottom.)
And finally, I'm going to open a thread on fullers. How do you plan to make those fullers?
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2008 23:18:31 GMT
Milling machine.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on May 1, 2008 23:49:33 GMT
Hey Sam. Could you please take photos of how you will clamp the tapered blade into the square vice, so I can see how you'll get it runnin right. Also pics of the type of bit you'll be using. Will the fullers still have rounded sides or square sides. I have a milling machine coming at some stage. Are the blades beveled yet? Yeah, I want to see how you secure and align the blade. Thanks dude. And contribute to my fuller thread. Cheers
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Post by Deleted on May 2, 2008 0:35:29 GMT
Of course I will. The key to fullers being milled in is planning. For the longsword, I specifically left the ricasso area the original nice and flat and square width of the original barstock, and measuring out and keeping things symmetrical with the original dimensions of the barstock it will allow me to chock the blade up not in the milling machine's vice but right to the table itself, using the barstock width as a guide to guide the ball end mill cutter centered down the length. It takes alot of time to lay it out on the table and get everything setup to finally do the cut, which does not take too long at all. There is all these neat little clamps that bolt to the milling table to hold odd sized stuff down. The fullers will be rounded, one large with the 2 smaller ones coming down the sides leaving two raised ridges, which will be square topped. The blank is not forged or tapered at all which makes laying it out on the table LOADS easier as well. It will be forged and ground after the fullers are milled in.
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Post by Deleted on May 20, 2008 18:06:40 GMT
number 3 with number 4's pommel for me!
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Post by Deleted on Jun 7, 2008 23:01:54 GMT
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Post by Tom K. (ianflaer) on Jun 8, 2008 0:31:47 GMT
quick question about fullers. seems like everyone grinds/mills/cuts them traditionally weren't they hammered in hot with a fullering tool?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2008 0:36:34 GMT
Yes they were, but it a pretty advanced technique. I never got a chance to build my jig before I had to move.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jun 8, 2008 1:34:41 GMT
Yeah but that would be hard to get perfect. In this day and age every one wants everything perfectly executed and finished off with a mirror polish. And for under $300. Computer guided machines can do that.
I have the milling machine now, so I'm going to try a fuller or two on my next batch. I will cut it inot the flat bar after I scribe it, but before cutting it at all.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2008 2:21:26 GMT
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Jun 8, 2008 6:47:54 GMT
Suh...weeeet. Can't wait to see it finished. You ARE going to finish it, right Sam?
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2008 6:49:51 GMT
If he don't finish this one I am going to scream!
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Jun 8, 2008 6:59:50 GMT
if you don't want to finish it ..... I will ;D how much for it
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Post by Deleted on Jun 8, 2008 12:36:52 GMT
I AM going to finish this one, as well as all the others, last step in the whole scheme is to be able to heat treat the blades, then the rest of the work can continue. Thanks guys .
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