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Post by YlliwCir on Apr 13, 2008 13:53:20 GMT
Thanks, friends. As too the karma Sal, it surprised me also, you guys are too kind. Brenno, I think it's SS tho I don't know for sure how to tell. I put a magnet to it and the furniture isn't as magnetic as the blade, I heard somewhere that SS doesn't attract like "regular" steel. At least this is true of body piercings.
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Post by ShooterMike on Apr 13, 2008 15:19:54 GMT
Great review, Rick. And a very nice cutting video. I got mine too, but haven't had a chance to put the review together yet. Hope you don't mind if I post one too. You make that bottle cutting look effortless. Good to see you're staying hydrated. Cuttin's hard work!
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 16:11:48 GMT
It is reviews like this that make me want a Euro sword. I mean, I will never get bored of the katana, but this just looks plain fun. sadly, I do not know anything about Euro swords, can anyone help me in that field? I am thinking of purchasing a 2 handed Euro sword, just because I am so used to the Japanese sword. +1 by the way. Hey, Ric...you seem to have surpassed rammstein in Karma...Wow, I thought it was an impossible task. But you did it! Well, what do you need to know? A good place to start is with the oakshot typology at myarmoury. www.myarmoury.com/features.htmlThe next thing you should get familiar with how weight and PoB (point of balance...sometimes refered to as CoG or center of gravity) affects a swords performance. Generally one handers should be 2lb (very light end) to 3 lbs (really heavy). Add .5lbs for longswords. PoB closer to the hilt helps in the thrust but negatively affects cutting. However, this is also affected by blade design. Well thats a basic rundown of euro sword.
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Post by rammstein on Apr 13, 2008 16:29:26 GMT
And cross sections!
Diamond x-section = better thrusting, lenticular = better cutting.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 13, 2008 17:14:18 GMT
Thanks a ton for this vid, RicWilly! And that lady in that hospital was right, "you talk funny!" Haha. That's a niiiice lookin sword too!
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Post by YlliwCir on Apr 13, 2008 17:25:51 GMT
Mike, thanks. I look forward to your review, more opinions the better, I think. I found the sword made the cutting easy. Yeah, Shayan, I do talk funny, huh. LOL
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Post by swordboy bringer of chaos on Apr 13, 2008 17:30:41 GMT
when do the other swords hit the market cause I want the han sword
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2008 12:02:05 GMT
Hi everybody! Since i got my practical LS out of customs today, I felt like adding a few comments myself. Most of my impressions have already been covered by RicWilly (thanks for the great review btw!) but I would like to add some minor issues. First of all, its a very nice sword, I really like it. It has a very nice overall appearance and feels "just right" in the hand. IF you haven't cut yourself. Yes, I did, but not on the blade but on the cross-guard, the edges are so sharp, I had to dismantle the sword and grind them of with a file and sandpaper (the hilt furniture indeed is stainless steel by the way). Now it really feels nice to the hand. I probably will change the grip wrap and the scabbard covering to real leather, i don't like the synthetic leather covering. The biggest issue i have with this sword is this: This was like it came out of the box, the tang is off angle, the blade itself is straight. There was no visible transportation damage to the box so I think it probably was shipped like this. A bench vice and some bending fixed that, now it is nice and straight. Bending it was really easy, I had not expected it since it is tempered steel. Might it be possible that, judging by the coloration, the thread was welded to the tang after heat treatment and the tang has lost some of its sturdiness? WOW, as I am re-reading my post the sword seems horrible but no it is not! As I said before, I really like it a lot. I don't want to run it down, after the slight modifications it is really great. As this is the first production run some minor issues can be expected and with some more post production quality management this could be a perfect practical sword and all this for under 300$! CYA Quasi
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Post by YlliwCir on Apr 14, 2008 15:53:41 GMT
Thanks for your comments, Quasi. I agree there are a few things I would change. I didn't comment on them in the review because I wanted people to draw their own conclusions and comment like you are doing. I didn't notice any variance in the tang, here's a side view I didn't include in the review; I'm not saying this sword is perfect, there is always something I would change about a sword. Brenno has already addressed one . I like it over all. *Edit- looking at that picture I see you can't really tell if it lines up with the blade. I'll take another later when I have time and post it.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2008 17:31:47 GMT
Excellent review Ric! You've convinced me to delve into the realm of euro blades. Congratulations! +1k
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Post by YlliwCir on Apr 14, 2008 19:47:18 GMT
Thanks, Jesse. Come into the light, you'll like it. ;D I did a little test on the tang. Photos taken with blade layed on a flat edge, camera fixed on a tripod. First picture is as it came; I placed the juncture of blade and tang against my knee and applied moderate pressure, then took this picture; Lastly I took a picture of more of the blade; I think the tang may be softer toward the weld but it was straight so I didn't want to bend it to find out. I don't think this will be an issue as most of the stress will be at the juncture of tang and blade. It doesn't appear it will bend easily there. As always I could be wrong and anyone more knowledgeable please correct me if I am. Disclaimer- RicWilly is in no way associated with nor does he receive any payment or reward from VA. This is strictly his experiences and others may vary. ;D
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2008 21:47:19 GMT
Ric, mine was bent exactly at the juncture of tang and blade, not at the area around the welded on thread. In fact the tang should be harder next to the weld due to hardening increase. The welding process causes lots of heat but the cold masses of the surrounding steel are cooling the area rapidly. This creates a hardening process similar to the first step in heat treating. It makes the steel very hard but also brittle and can even lead to stress cracks if done uncontrolled. Blades have to be tempered again to about 300°F and then cooled down slowly to be useful. However all this applies just for the area near the weld and I think before something really serious happens to that area of the tang the wooden hilt must break first. The blade/tang juncture should not be affected by these effects.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 14, 2008 22:52:44 GMT
man it's either one of these or a up-right bass
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Post by rammstein on Apr 14, 2008 23:00:36 GMT
Get the bass - them things are sick ;D
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Post by YlliwCir on Apr 15, 2008 8:32:04 GMT
Thanks for the information, Quasi. I stand corrected. I'm still trying to get a grasp on this whole heat treating/tempering process. I can see the angle of the bend better from the latest pictures.
Rammy, don't eat that fish if it's sick.
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 15, 2008 12:40:24 GMT
man it's either one of these or a up-right bass An instrument is for life. I've had my Ibanez EX for 17 years with not 1 scratch. Though, if you have under 10 swords you need more!(?) ;D
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2008 1:37:58 GMT
haha i only have a couple swords but i have upright bass, two violins, one mandolin and a trumpet. the sad part is that i'm not really good at any of them though I think i'll work on finishing my sword and buying an electric bass and converting it into a upright and make a killer electric upright
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2008 4:13:51 GMT
The tang is welded on the blade? What a crock of s**t!
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Post by Brendan Olszowy on Apr 16, 2008 4:23:07 GMT
The tang is welded on the blade? What a crock of s**t! You get what you pay for, hey? Though Windlass manage to tap and die theirs from a solid tang...
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Post by kidcasanova on Apr 16, 2008 5:35:22 GMT
Well, the threaded part of the tang is welded on, but the stress is at the juncture of the blade and tang, not the pommel area. So as long as it's a quality weld, I don't see what the problem is.
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