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Post by whitefeathers on Jan 17, 2015 15:23:38 GMT
Furthermore, my sword bag is pretty stretched to the limit, if I keep on getting a single sword for each scenario, I might need to roll a golf bag into the dojo for training soon. That is how I feel when we have a cutting class, I have crammed 4 swords into a 2 sword bag.
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Post by LG Martial Arts on Jan 17, 2015 15:29:32 GMT
One more thing to add... remember that if you do intend to go for the higher polished "art sword" and intend to use it,every time it's polished, steel is taken off by the polisher. Just food for thought.
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Post by Kirin on Jan 17, 2015 20:51:16 GMT
Good point. There seems to be a .2 pound weight difference between the Okuden and higher polish models.
If more additional polishing is needed, the blade will get lighter.
Any general guesses on how many polishes a blade has in it before it gets too thin/structure may be a bit worrisome?
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 17, 2015 20:57:23 GMT
Not sure if you get the sbg newsletter but the Kaneie swords are on sale in the sbg store. The Okuden is only $680 -Josh
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2015 21:56:26 GMT
Good point. There seems to be a .2 pound weight difference between the Okuden and higher polish models. If more additional polishing is needed, the blade will get lighter. Any general guesses on how many polishes a blade has in it before it gets too thin/structure may be a bit worrisome? If you can polish the the blade and keep the geometry crisp as well as the mune then you should be okay if the whole plane remains balanced. Thin blades tend to be because they don't have a uniform geometry unless we are taking about a really thin blade like a jingum. But generally the higher polish you would want to avoid using for cutting.
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Post by Google on Jan 17, 2015 22:35:25 GMT
Why not just get the okuden? It's the same quality as menkyo minus the COST and appearance of hadori. Which really don't matter since it's a cutting sword.
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Post by Kirin on Jan 18, 2015 6:26:15 GMT
That is my plan. I have a certain Kaneie model in mind already to purchase. I will be purchasing one soon.
I was just curious on how much polishing a katana could take.
Maybe it's like how many licks it takes to get to the center of a certain lollipop?
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Post by Cottontail Customs on Jan 18, 2015 6:51:48 GMT
Here's a couple of thoughts on using the higher level Kaneie swords. The kesho hadori polish on the blades will not just rub off with use like I've seen on some of the Hanwei frosty hamon. I used a Kaneie blade with this polish to cut dry bamboo and the hamon held up just fine. Even if you cut with your sword regularly and you do build up scratches over time, you will still be able to see the hamon clearly. What I'm saying is that the features that make the sword appealing and attractive will still be there and as long as you're still using it to cut with, there really shouldn't be a need to re-polish it unless just to sharpen the edge.
You shouldn't have a need for multiple polishes unless you consistently damage the edge or are obsessive about scratches, in which case your choice about which polish to get would have been an obvious one. If you don't abuse your sword, you should only need occasional touching up with a strop to keep the edge honed. If you decide later on to retire the sword from cutting, you can then polish it for display. Kaneie swords are definitely made to be used and will hold up over time and still look better than the average dojo cutter. I say if you like how the polish looks on the higher tier models, go for it, you'll be able to cut and admire at the same time.
-Josh
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Post by Google on Jan 18, 2015 13:10:31 GMT
That is my plan. I have a certain Kaneie model in mind already to purchase. I will be purchasing one soon. I was just curious on how much polishing a katana could take. Maybe it's like how many licks it takes to get to the center of a certain lollipop? On traditional swords, nihonto, it really is like that. After some number of full polishes the inner steel is exposed and the blade is no longer good for use. On monosteel blades there's no inner steel core,but the blade can be thinned-out after polishes. Non of it should happen unless you're obsessive and will put it through a full polish after each scratch ;) BTW, I found out my kaneie is the okuden dragonfly, offered in the u.s. by cas. A fine choice!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2015 3:41:13 GMT
That is my plan. I have a certain Kaneie model in mind already to purchase. I will be purchasing one soon. I was just curious on how much polishing a katana could take. Maybe it's like how many licks it takes to get to the center of a certain lollipop? On traditional swords, nihonto, it really is like that. After some number of full polishes the inner steel is exposed and the blade is no longer good for use. On monosteel blades there's no inner steel core,but the blade can be thinned-out after polishes. Non of it should happen unless you're obsessive and will put it through a full polish after each scratch ;) BTW, I found out my kaneie is the okuden dragonfly, offered in the u.s. by cas. A fine choice! True, most definitely the case with a kobuse nihonto. Do you think that's why they do a 'retired' polish? To actually expose the inner steel?
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Post by Google on Jan 19, 2015 12:44:11 GMT
I'm not sure what is a "retired polish", can you elaborate?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2015 13:50:20 GMT
I'm not sure what is a "retired polish", can you elaborate? Basically a full hadori polish with sashikomi to highlight all the activity of the steel. I personally wouldn't cut with a blade that has a 'retired polish' as it's had it's steel bought out to it's fullest. It's an o.c.d. thing lol. Museum level display pieces. I would cry about any scratches that would show up.
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Post by Google on Jan 20, 2015 18:18:21 GMT
Please remember that swords discussed here are not museum level... That said, I would cut even with a museum sword, and that's why I'll never buy any :)
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2015 22:27:22 GMT
Please remember that swords discussed here are not museum level... That said, I would cut even with a museum sword, and that's why I'll never buy any Well the whole point of a hadori polish is to basically bringing it to museum quality or at least make a good attempt at it. Of course the skill of the polisher will make a difference too.
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Post by Google on Jan 20, 2015 23:56:28 GMT
I doubt that a chinese production company has polishers of that caliber :)
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Post by Deleted on Jan 21, 2015 2:25:01 GMT
There's a couple who do a pretty good job to the average buyer. No, not award winning quality though but most work is done on modern steel so less work to bring out the steel.
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