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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 19, 2014 0:00:58 GMT
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Post by MLanteigne on Oct 19, 2014 2:32:28 GMT
Looking forward to the progress pics. I recently started a tanto from 1095 bar but it is on the thin side. It will be a while before it gets finished.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 19, 2014 4:16:12 GMT
So what you are really doing is forging in the sori, not the point, tang, or bevels.
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Post by Novice_Surgery on Oct 19, 2014 5:02:14 GMT
I never saw him say that he was only forging the sori and nothing else.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 19, 2014 7:06:12 GMT
You can see where the point was cut and ground in.
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Post by Novice_Surgery on Oct 19, 2014 8:35:21 GMT
Swords still no where near done, and if Wes Is comfortable doing it this way or whatever way he likes, then all the power to him. Cant wait to see the next step Wes.
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 19, 2014 8:44:51 GMT
Man I am not trying to bust anyones chops. Just was going to let him know if he is going to try to hammer in the bevels to stop trying to forum the sori right now. Hammering in the bevels will cause the blade to go upwards alot. He can do it how ever he wants.
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avery
Senior Forumite
Manufacturer/Vendor
Posts: 1,530
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Post by avery on Oct 19, 2014 10:37:01 GMT
Driggs makes a good point. If Saito is planning on grinding the ji from the shinogi to the ha, then there'll be no worries. However, if he's planning on hammering that part, the steel will continue to curve during that process and increase the sori. That could, possibly, lead to problems. I remember a member on the old forum that wanted a custom blade with a large amount of sori made by a really well known and respected maker. The maker warned him that there could be warping and indeed there was. Just have to be very careful and go very slow.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Oct 19, 2014 13:25:00 GMT
I'd like to see the video or pics of the forging and heat treating. Not because I need proof but I'd like to one day do the same and I'd like to see your forge. I guess your forge is big enough to heat the entire nagasa evenly to critical temperature (1525F for ten minutes). I'll be following this thread!
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 19, 2014 19:20:25 GMT
actually you only heat a small section of the blade at a time and slowly work it as you go My "forge" is nothing more than a rusted up coffee can stuffed with Insulation blanket. its very very crude and not optimal in any way shape or form...but you can get the job done if your determined. as for this sword. I plan on forging everything i possibly can. Keep in mind my "anvil" is nothing more than a small bench vise that i lay on the brick wall next to my forge and it only has a 3" X 3" striking surface. on top of that i have had a bad shoulder injury that refuses to heal for the past 8-10 years so the amount of whacking i can do i rather limited. On this particular blade the plan is to forge the sori, tang, kissakki, profile taper, and distal taper, and the little angles on the mune (i don't know the japanese term for them) once that's all done ill rough grind in the primary edge bevel and finish it all out with hand files. and about the Cut off Kissakki (oh noooo HE RUINS IT!!!!) there was no choice but to cut off the kissakki....the bar of steel was 5" too long, so to complain that the sword inst forged because I cut off the excess steel is mildly annoying to say the least.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 19, 2014 23:53:22 GMT
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Post by L Driggers (fallen) on Oct 20, 2014 3:04:52 GMT
Why didn't you just cut off the tang end, you do know as you hammer in the distal and profile taper the blade will get longer. As you hammer in the bevels it will get wider and curve more. Just trying to help. I know I wouldn't even try to forge a katana right now, it's one of the hardest swords to forge.
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Oct 20, 2014 16:19:36 GMT
As far as the question posed by mr.Driggers is concerned,.....it was absolutely valid, and took the question right outta my mouth. He asked a question based on seeing the cut/ground kissaki, and in no way busted anyone's chops. Seems some midol might be in order this morning, eh gent's?
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Post by KaOsBlaKbLaDe on Oct 20, 2014 16:23:15 GMT
oh yeah, and btw,...looks pretty good so far Wes. If it was me, i'd try to stock remove as much as i could. It looks a whole lot better now than it will when it starts to bend,warp etc. with repeated hammer blows and heat treat. Nothing worse than pullin a bananna outta the quench. I gotta give you credit for some big brass balls on this one!
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Post by Novice_Surgery on Oct 20, 2014 18:31:07 GMT
I dont appreciate that veiled insult, thats uncalled for. If you got something to say to me do it in pm.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Oct 20, 2014 18:49:19 GMT
Ok, I understand the forging part. Makes sense. But it's the heat treating part I dont understand. You can't heat treat sections of the blade at a time. The whole blade needs to be heated to critical temperature at the same time. If you only heat treat sections then you are annealing the neighboring sections. For all that forging you're about to do I would have it sent to a professional heat treater.
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 20, 2014 19:10:40 GMT
its not being heat treated sections at a time, its being Forged sections at a time.
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Post by DigsFossils-n-Knives on Oct 20, 2014 19:28:44 GMT
So how will you heat treat it or harden the cutting edge?
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Post by Lonely Wolf Forge on Oct 20, 2014 19:38:05 GMT
I will either have my proper forge built by then, or my blacksmith buddy/fellow bladesmith SanMarc will take care of it for me.
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Post by Adrian Jordan on Oct 20, 2014 20:04:35 GMT
Try and keep this on the rails, guys. Ask questions, yes, but don't be insulting or dismissive of others' opinions. Fallen asked a legitimate question, and Saito has answered in kind. I'm personally pretty excited to see how this one turns out!
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